Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For the folks that are ordering trucks....how/when do you negotiate price?  I have never ordered a vehicle before.  Today my sales guy confirmed that he can send in an order now for a 22 but the system is not showing pricing yet.  I imagine pricing will be close to what we have for the 21s so I am fine with that but do you negotiate before you even order or do you want until the truck comes in?

Posted
7 hours ago, 03 Cobra said:

For the folks that are ordering trucks....how/when do you negotiate price?  I have never ordered a vehicle before.  Today my sales guy confirmed that he can send in an order now for a 22 but the system is not showing pricing yet.  I imagine pricing will be close to what we have for the 21s so I am fine with that but do you negotiate before you even order or do you want until the truck comes in?

 

 

i wonder if many dealers will negotiate in todays truck market? even on a factory order. it will be interesting to see since it seems like many are selling their current inventory at or above msrp. by chance do you have any family members that are current or retired GM employees. the discount is cut and dry and if your dealer chooses to accept it there is usually no negotiating. 

Posted
10 hours ago, jd64 said:

 

 

i wonder if many dealers will negotiate in todays truck market? even on a factory order. it will be interesting to see since it seems like many are selling their current inventory at or above msrp. by chance do you have any family members that are current or retired GM employees. the discount is cut and dry and if your dealer chooses to accept it there is usually no negotiating. 

 

Well, my grandma by marriage that passed away a few years ago was a GM employee.  Do you think I could get that to stick?!

Posted

LOL, since she has to get you the number.... you may have a problem there

Posted
On 6/5/2021 at 8:54 AM, 03 Cobra said:

 

Well, my grandma by marriage that passed away a few years ago was a GM employee.  Do you think I could get that to stick?!

 

You could if she was alive.  But that dies with emloyee

Posted (edited)
On 6/4/2021 at 3:06 PM, 03 Cobra said:

For the folks that are ordering trucks....how/when do you negotiate price?  I have never ordered a vehicle before.  Today my sales guy confirmed that he can send in an order now for a 22 but the system is not showing pricing yet.  I imagine pricing will be close to what we have for the 21s so I am fine with that but do you negotiate before you even order or do you want until the truck comes in?

 

You have to understand vehicle negotiations there really is two paths. 

 

1.  Incentives/rebates, etc.  You can usually find these on the website or the dealer can provide them.  You cant negotiate these they are what they are, they change month to month and are only valid the month you take delivery not when you order.  When I ordered it was $1750 when I picked up in may it was $250.    There are factory to dealer incentives that can be hidden, red tag events that come up etc, but those are going to be reserved to clear lot stock.

 

2.  Is negotiating money off between you and the dealer.  Simple rule of thumb is this, never pay over invoice price, to me thats the starting point.  From there you find MSRP multiply by 3%,  find invoice and then minus that 3% you found, and thats your offer maybe even more.  Some dealers dont like to show invoice but the build sheet will show it and usually walk away from dealers that wont show invoice.  Now on a 65-70k truck there isnt 10k to negotiate, not factoring in  incentives,  you might be looking at 2k,  4ish if your lucky.

 

So really you want to get the truck to the lowest amount then minus incentives.   When ordering you negoiate the lowest price and wait for incentives to hit.  The current environment I dont think there is any dealer dickering, its MSRP minus any incentives right now.  Some dealers are charging over invoice. 

 

as for 22 pricing it should be withing 5% or less of the 21 probably really close tbh.  I always trade in my old stuff that is worth 30-40k so that saves me 8% on taxes and makes trading worth it.    At this stage of the game I would be factoring in paying full msrp

Edited by nards444
Posted
4 minutes ago, nards444 said:

 

You have to understand vehicle negotiations there really is two paths. 

 

1.  Incentives/rebates, etc.  You can usually find these on the website or the dealer can provide them.  You cant negotiate these they are what they are, they change month to month and are only valid the month you take delivery not when you order.  When I ordered it was $1750 when I picked up in may it was $250.    There area factory to dealer incentives that can be hidden, red tag events that come up etc, but those are going to be reserved to clear lot stock.

 

2.  Is negotiating money off between you and the dealer.  Simple rule of thumb is this, never pay over invoice price, to me thats the starting point.  From there you find MSRP multiply by 3%,  find invoice and then minus that 3% you found, and thats your offer maybe even more.  Some dealers dont like to show invoice but the build sheet will show it and usually walk away from dealers that wont show invoice.  Now on a 65-70k truck there isnt 10k to negotiate, not factoring in  incentives,  you might be looking at 2k,  4ish if your lucky.

 

So really you want to get the truck to the lowest amount then minus incentives.   When ordering you negoiate the lowest price and wait for incentives to hit.  The current environment I dont think there is any dealer dickering, its MSRP minus any incentives right now.  Some dealers are charging over invoice. 

 

Nards, thanks a bunch for the insight and feedback!   I recently found that I do have someone that can give me access to employee pricing.  And, they are living LOL!  Question about the process, I imagine that I let the dealer know before I order that I want to use employee pricing and I need to provide the "code" or whatever the number is that ties to the GM retiree that I know, correct?  Anything else I need to know going into it?

Posted
3 minutes ago, 03 Cobra said:

 

Nards, thanks a bunch for the insight and feedback!   I recently found that I do have someone that can give me access to employee pricing.  And, they are living LOL!  Question about the process, I imagine that I let the dealer know before I order that I want to use employee pricing and I need to provide the "code" or whatever the number is that ties to the GM retiree that I know, correct?  Anything else I need to know going into it?

 

 

Well it depends.  There two types of Employee discounts.  1. Employee discount which is like invoice minus 6-8%,  people like spouse, kids, parents immediate family.  2.  Is the friends and family discount where the employee can give it to anybody and is like invoice minus 2-3%.

 

You can negoiate on your own at times to even beat employee discount, but most times can do just as well on your own with the friends and family.  

 

You are suppose to tell them upfront,  negotiating stops at that point.  But usually I tell people try to get the best deal you can and then say what about friends and family then compare the two,  that dealer might come back and say sorry we will offer only the discount, but doubtful.  In todays climate if you can get the friends and family my as well drop it at the front and be done with it.  The code is a GMS code,  they are only good for 60-90 days,  dont really need it up front per say I never have but they may ask for it.    For reference my buddy just used a friends and family code for a 60k truck and it got him 4k off. 

Posted
42 minutes ago, nards444 said:

 

 

Well it depends.  There two types of Employee discounts.  1. Employee discount which is like invoice minus 6-8%,  people like spouse, kids, parents immediate family.  2.  Is the friends and family discount where the employee can give it to anybody and is like invoice minus 2-3%.

 

You can negoiate on your own at times to even beat employee discount, but most times can do just as well on your own with the friends and family.  

 

You are suppose to tell them upfront,  negotiating stops at that point.  But usually I tell people try to get the best deal you can and then say what about friends and family then compare the two,  that dealer might come back and say sorry we will offer only the discount, but doubtful.  In todays climate if you can get the friends and family my as well drop it at the front and be done with it.  The code is a GMS code,  they are only good for 60-90 days,  dont really need it up front per say I never have but they may ask for it.    For reference my buddy just used a friends and family code for a 60k truck and it got him 4k off. 

 

Copy that.  Considering today's environment and based on your input I think I'll disclose the GMS code at time of order and get what I can from that and let it ride.  I don't want to get too aggressive and have it delay my order for a 22 going in.  Last week my sales guy said he could submit an order but couldn't see 22 pricing yet.  This week I plan to supply my GMS code and place my order.  I know GM Flint where the HDs are built are working 6 and 7 days per week and not taking extended time off for July 4th like many of the other GM plants.  I also understand the change over to the 22s is occurring on July 12.  I hope if I get an order in now and as long as it isn't too unique it will get build within the first month or two.  

Posted
46 minutes ago, 03 Cobra said:

 

Copy that.  Considering today's environment and based on your input I think I'll disclose the GMS code at time of order and get what I can from that and let it ride.  I don't want to get too aggressive and have it delay my order for a 22 going in.  Last week my sales guy said he could submit an order but couldn't see 22 pricing yet.  This week I plan to supply my GMS code and place my order.  I know GM Flint where the HDs are built are working 6 and 7 days per week and not taking extended time off for July 4th like many of the other GM plants.  I also understand the change over to the 22s is occurring on July 12.  I hope if I get an order in now and as long as it isn't too unique it will get build within the first month or two.  

 

just make sure the dealer knows which GM discount you are using as mentioned in one of the previous posts so you get the correct pricing and you can also make sure they give you the correct pricing.. 

Posted

my order for a 22 got submitted this past friday (6/4) and the dealer was pretty specific that he had no problem honoring the employee discount but wasn't going  discount it any further, which iam perfectly fine with, for me that's how it has always been done in my area, plus incentives of course but this time i'am 300 miles out of my area so i wasn't sure how they would do it .  i'am just happy that they were willing to honor it.  my dealer had 2 allocations , he checked and said there were no constraints on what i ordered and the order has been submitted so , so  hopefully this one will happen .  

Posted
4 hours ago, jd64 said:

my order for a 22 got submitted this past friday (6/4) and the dealer was pretty specific that he had no problem honoring the employee discount but wasn't going  discount it any further, which iam perfectly fine with, for me that's how it has always been done in my area, plus incentives of course but this time i'am 300 miles out of my area so i wasn't sure how they would do it .  i'am just happy that they were willing to honor it.  my dealer had 2 allocations , he checked and said there were no constraints on what i ordered and the order has been submitted so , so  hopefully this one will happen .  

 

I will definitely make sure the dealer understands the code I am using and that we are aligned on the pricing.  Thanks for that suggestion.  Congrats on getting yours ordered last Friday!  You likely beat me by about one week!  We may end up neck and neck for build timing!  I did not know to ask about allocations or constraints so I will definitely do that when the time comes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 486 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...