Jump to content

Best tire pressure and hypertech speedometer programmer issues.

Buzz1

By Buzz1
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Buzz1 Enthusiast

Buzz1

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey everyone,

 

Was wondering what the general consensus was for tire pressure to run with 35 x 12.50 r20 ko2s. I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the hypertech speedometer corrector. 

I have used a hypertech speedometer programmer and with my 35s when I program  it for 33 inch tall tires, when I set my cruise to 35 my phone says 35 and then sometimes goes up to 36 and then goes back down. Then if I set it for 32.75 and set cruise at 35 my phone says 35 and sometimes goes down to 34 and then back up. I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion or is that good enough. 

 

 

Edited by Buzz1
  • Buzz1 changed the title to Best tire pressure with 35 x 12.50 r20 KO2s and
MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, Buzz1 said:

Hey everyone,

 

Was wondering what the general consensus was for tire pressure to run with 35 x 12.50 r20 ko2s. I am also wondering if anyone has experience with the hypertech speedometer corrector. 

 

 

I run 35x12.5x18s (k02) and I've found the sweet spot for road driving is about 40-42 PSI.
I've read that others like 60 PSI or so, but that would be a bone rattling drive, I think.
Anything lower, like 32-35, the handling gets a bit wonky, IMO.

Edited by MikeBMW
  • Buzz1 changed the title to Best tire pressure and hypertech speedometer programmer issues.
Buzz1 Enthusiast

Buzz1

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, MikeBMW said:

I run 35x12.5x18s (k02) and I've found the sweet spot for road driving is about 40-42 PSI.
I've read that others like 60 PSI or so, but that would be a bone rattling drive, I think.
Anything lower, like 32-35, the handling gets a bit wonky, IMO.

How has wear been on your tires? 

MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Buzz1 said:

How has wear been on your tires? 

After over 600 miles, they still look like new:
 

IMG_0395.JPG

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 320 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Casey from the Texas Hill Country

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • chris21
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By chris21 · Posted

      With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...