Jump to content

No crank

Coalkracker
 Share

Recommended Posts

Coalkracker Enthusiast

Coalkracker

Posted
Posted

Hi all i have a 2007 1500 thgat wont crank. The other night i drove it fine then tge next morning it wouldnt crank. Other symptoms are no radio, window wont work, dash takes a few seconds to turn on, service 4 wheel drive, service airbag, dome light doesnt come on wgen i open thge driver door but comes on when i open the back door, and there might be more but i cant think of any at the moment. The door locks and blower fan both still work. When i turn the key nothing happens. Any ideas what the problem may be?

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

Battery?

You don't say how old it is.

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

Check the condition of battery cables and their connection battery and ground. For sure have the battery load tested

Jworks Enthusiast

Jworks

Posted
Posted

Sounds like a tough issue.  The battery is only 7 mos old, and Napa doesn't usually deal in cheap stuff.  Still, a battery can be defective by any brand.  I would start with having battery fully tested --- load, short inside the battery.  Other than that it will probably take a good mechanic to find that issue. 

Any wiring that you can see thats been chewed on by mice?

Is power getting to the spark plugs?  If not, you might be able to trace it back from there.

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

If it didn't try to start when you tried to jump it then there is an issue with the wiring somewhere.  Like stated above.  Make sure the cables are good.  Sometimes corrosion can be inside the cable casing and you can't see it but it stops the flow of electricity.  

Coalkracker Enthusiast

Coalkracker

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I forgot to mention that the line under my park reverse neutral and drive isnt there anymore to indicate which gear i am in. Also i had my rear main seal replaced 2 weeks ago. Can something have gotten pinched under there while they were working on that??

Sharpz Enthusiast

Sharpz

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, Coalkracker said:

I forgot to mention that the line under my park reverse neutral and drive isnt there anymore to indicate which gear i am in. Also i had my rear main seal replaced 2 weeks ago. Can something have gotten pinched under there while they were working on that??

quite possibly a ground didnt get tightened or got damaged in the process

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

You need to start a process of elimination. Check all wiring. Make sure no damage from work performed. Check starter.

Battery cables etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,141 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...