Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey there! I figured I would come to one of the best places for some advice and answers.

 

I recently bought a 2015 Silverado 1500 6 speed, it has a newly rebuilt transmission with new TC, like 5k miles on them.

 

The Issue:

Ever since driving it I notice a strange lack in acceleration or power in general.. like the transmission is just constantly slipping or something. I tried the power braking test and here is a video snippet of it:

 

https://streamable.com/mrtx4e
 

as you’ll see, while on the brakes and I floor the gas the truck barely builds to over 1k rpm... like the there absolutely no power to do anything.

 

I thought about going to a tuner and having them tune out the TCC engagement in 1st-4th gear but I’d like to know first this isn’t anything mechanical wrong. Any suggestions?

 

Thank you!!

Posted
2 minutes ago, SlateGrey1500 said:

Hey there! I figured I would come to one of the best places for some advice and answers.

 

I recently bought a 2015 Silverado 1500 6 speed, it has a newly rebuilt transmission with new TC, like 5k miles on them.

 

The Issue:

Ever since driving it I notice a strange lack in acceleration or power in general.. like the transmission is just constantly slipping or something. I tried the power braking test and here is a video snippet of it:

 

https://streamable.com/mrtx4e
 

as you’ll see, while on the brakes and I floor the gas the truck barely builds to over 1k rpm... like the there absolutely no power to do anything.

 

I thought about going to a tuner and having them tune out the TCC engagement in 1st-4th gear but I’d like to know first this isn’t anything mechanical wrong. Any suggestions?

 

Thank you!!

If the transmission was slipping the RPMS would rise without pulling the truck, slipping. Try turning off traction control, brake torque a little then nail it. Your tires should spin and the light would blink. Most people would blame poor acceleration on power or lack of. But it’s the traction control kicking in.

Posted (edited)

I completely forgot to mention that too!

So when I nail it going down the road, the RPMs do shoot up like they should.. but the actual power to the ground just isn’t there like you would expect at WOT.

Edited by SlateGrey1500
Posted (edited)

puting foot on brake while giving throttle just activates Torque managment, and you'll go no where..and pull timing..

 

try driving in M5 , this disables DoD v4 mode and removes the hesitation in D, when going wot, then try m4 mode combined with or without towhaul. 

 

Yes remove the TCC in 1-3rd for all around driving, remove tcc in 1-4th gives more power but at a cost of mpg losses. then delete the thermostat in trans.. have dealer or  tuner do a trans relearn and throttle clean

Edited by pokismoki
Posted (edited)

@pokismoki

 

Thank you for the tips!!

 

I have installed a new MAF, cleaned the TB and did the throttle position relearn procedure for a safe measure. I will try those driving tests tonight or possibly tomorrow too!

 

I had no idea about the torque management killing power on a power brake like that, makes sense!

 

As for the thermostat delete, could you share a bit of info with me on what difference that makes? Thank you!

 

Edit:

Nevermind, I looked up a delete kit and watched the info video. Just ordered the kit!

Edited by SlateGrey1500
Posted

there is a section in the HPtuner software that you can disable the power brake function so you can do standing burnouts or fast off the line launches without the tcm pulling timing but dont touch the TM until you know what your doing, i think  removing 15-20 percent is the limit, otherwise you damage the trans

Posted

Delete kits are free though, you can do it in your garage for free with no extra stuff.

 

You just flip the pill inside the thermostat and re-install it. Simple as that.

Posted (edited)

i dont see how standing on the throttle and brake at the same time will diagnose a TCC it activates in motion and touching the brake pedal usually disables the lock up on some model trans..  usually tcc failure occurs when the o-ring on the snout  of the input shaft stops sealing fluid flow to the clutch in the tc.

 

the o-ring gets hard and fails due to the high temps inside a TC. thus why you want to run the trans as cool as possible

Edited by pokismoki

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,357 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...