Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got a 21 about a month ago. When I was setting up my phone with the salesman he told me I didn’t have wireless car play. I thought ok, maybe it had something to do with the chip shortage.

A couple weeks ago my wife wanted to hook her phone to it. Well it connected wirelessly for hers. So I made the truck forget my phone and forgot the truck from my phone. Repaired to the truck, still nothing. So I thought her phone is older than mine and may not have the newest update, maybe that’s the case, which it was. I then double checked my window sticker and it said I have wireless CarPlay. 
So today I had someone else in the truck with me. I had them try to connect their phone to see if the wireless CarPlay would work and it did. So I asked what version of the software are the using. They had the latest update just like me. 
I contacted OnStar and they said it shows that I don’t have it. I’m confused. Are there specific settings on my phone restricting it?  It takes me thru the steps like it wants to connect but fails every time. Any help is appreciated. 

Posted

I would guess it is a phone issue. Maybe when your phone was first connected wireless was accidentally disabled. On your phone go to Settings > General > CarPlay  tap "forget this car" then try setting up CarPlay again. 

Posted (edited)

Remember there’s a difference between Wireless Apple CarPlay and just regular phone/music over Bluetooth.

 

Got a photo of your window sticker we can see?

 

 

Edited by Kanon Morris
Posted

It says wireless CarPlay in the standard options list. I actually got it to hook up today. The thing I was missing I guess 1) I had Siri turned off on my phone and 2) I never connected to the trucks built in WiFi. The trial for the data has already expired and it still worked. So I assume it’s good. 

Posted

Think of the "wireless" in your truck like your wireless at home. You don't have to have (pay) an internet provider to make your wireless routers work. Its just a local network until you pay for service to connect you to the internet. So your truck has a wireless router in it. You can connect devices to it. They can talk to each other and to the truck's network (like entertainment). Then, if you want the truck to connect to the Internet, you pay OnStar to connect. Just like an ISP at home. 

 

Wireless CarPlay and Wireless Android Auto require a WiFi signal to work. Bluetooth is too limited, but still serves as the signal for phone.  

Posted
On 7/18/2021 at 11:43 PM, ftwhite said:

Think of the "wireless" in your truck like your wireless at home. You don't have to have (pay) an internet provider to make your wireless routers work. Its just a local network until you pay for service to connect you to the internet. So your truck has a wireless router in it. You can connect devices to it. They can talk to each other and to the truck's network (like entertainment). Then, if you want the truck to connect to the Internet, you pay OnStar to connect. Just like an ISP at home. 

 

Wireless CarPlay and Wireless Android Auto require a WiFi signal to work. Bluetooth is too limited, but still serves as the signal for phone.  

That makes sense, but the other phones didn’t have to connect to the WiFi in order to work. They just connected thru the Bluetooth and CarPlay worked for them. I did try it again this morning on my way to work. I had to connect to the WiFi in order to activate CarPlay.  Which is fine, at least I can utilize it if I need it.  I just never connected to the WiFi because I had no intention of using or purchasing the data plan. 

Posted
On 7/18/2021 at 12:39 AM, Fattyz28 said:

Are there specific settings on my phone restricting it?  It takes me thru the steps like it wants to connect but fails every time. Any help is appreciated. 

Yes- on your phone - go to Settings  ->General->CarPlay and follow those directions to turn it on

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,864 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...