Jump to content

2021 Silverado 3.0L Diesel having vibrations on the interstate 70-80 mph

Armydave81
 Share

Recommended Posts

Armydave81 Enthusiast

Armydave81

Posted
Posted

Bought a 2021 Silverado with the minimax.  Love the truck except for the 17 inch rims and tiny tires.  So at around 800 miles I take it back to the dealer because it felt like the right front tire was out of balance.  Literally was told to let the truck settle in another 1000 miles before bringing back.  Yeah sure!? Ended up not being able to until about 5000 miles.  They finally checked it out and rebalanced all the tires.  Drove it another 1000 miles and still getting same vibrations.  Take it back again and find that one of the tires was out of balance again.  Found a belt broken in the tire.  Tire was replaced.  All good? Nope.  Still getting the vibrations.  The problem seems to only happen when crusing,not during acceleration or deceleration.  It is felt coming from the right front.  Noticeably from the passenger seat.  In my mind i want to suspect suspension but ive also known drivetrain can do the same thing.  Anyone else come across this issue?

Jaketab Enthusiast

Jaketab

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 7/20/2021 at 6:24 PM, Armydave81 said:

Bought a 2021 Silverado with the minimax.  Love the truck except for the 17 inch rims and tiny tires.  So at around 800 miles I take it back to the dealer because it felt like the right front tire was out of balance.  Literally was told to let the truck settle in another 1000 miles before bringing back.  Yeah sure!? Ended up not being able to until about 5000 miles.  They finally checked it out and rebalanced all the tires.  Drove it another 1000 miles and still getting same vibrations.  Take it back again and find that one of the tires was out of balance again.  Found a belt broken in the tire.  Tire was replaced.  All good? Nope.  Still getting the vibrations.  The problem seems to only happen when crusing,not during acceleration or deceleration.  It is felt coming from the right front.  Noticeably from the passenger seat.  In my mind i want to suspect suspension but ive also known drivetrain can do the same thing.  Anyone else come across this issue?

Armydave - Sounds exactly the same complaint I have.  Purchased the Denali last August 2020.  Not a smooth ride at 75 mph.  Had a road force balance 3 times.  Dealer also put sensing instruments on on underframe.  Dealer said all was normal.  BS.  Finally gave up.  BTW - I have the 22 inch tires on mine.  Somewhere in this forum I also started a thread on this topic.

Edited by Jaketab
Armydave81 Enthusiast

Armydave81

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/23/2021 at 3:23 PM, Jaketab said:

Armydave - Sounds exactly the same complaint I have.  Purchased the Denali last August 2020.  Not a smooth ride at 75 mph.  Had a road force balance 3 times.  Dealer also put sensing instruments on on underframe.  Dealer said all was normal.  BS.  Finally gave up.  BTW - I have the 22 inch tires on mine.  Somewhere in this forum I also started a thread on this topic.

So I had the truck left with the dealer over the weekend.  The Master Tech drove it all weekend and said he could not replicate.  I decided to take him on a ride.  Now he feels what I have been complaining about this entire time. Something else I have noticed was that the tire pressure increasing from 34 to 37 over the time of this ride along.  As the pressure increased the vibration was felt more.  So we are under the impression that the tires are heating up and causing the pressure to increase.  So to prove this theory, they are going to swap out the set for a different set of comparable size.  Im hoping that this fixes the issue but now hearing that you have been getting the same issue makes me worry.   Keep an eye on tire pressure on the interstate as the tires heat up.

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted

I too have a 2021 Denali Duramax with 22's. Same thing slight vibration, drove me nuts for 600 miles. I had similar issues with three of the previous generation truck. It was always the tires. The solution was to switch to Michelin defenders each time. So I sold off my rims and tires as a package and bought new Snowflake rims and Michelin Defender LTX. Smooth as glass. Also rides nicer on the Michelins. The Bridgestones were terrible just in ride quality alone, certainly didnt want to start chasing down bad tires too, which is always the case with Bridgestones. 

black00ta Enthusiast

black00ta

Posted
Posted

I have a 2021 Denali Duramax with the 22" Bridgestone's, I was able to cure my vibration pretty easily with some match forcing. I own a shop and the Bridgestone's are great tires which we have very few problems with, compared to other brands.

Jaketab Enthusiast

Jaketab

Posted
Posted

The tire pressure increase may be worth investigation.  I have noticed that when tires are cold the vibration is less noticeable.  Next time I find the time I will decrease the tire pressure after they heat up to see if that makes a difference.  Typically on a hot day the pressure increases from 37 to 40 PSI.

The factory tire on mine is the Bridgestone 275/50/R22.

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, Armydave81 said:

So I had the truck left with the dealer over the weekend.  The Master Tech drove it all weekend and said he could not replicate.  I decided to take him on a ride.  Now he feels what I have been complaining about this entire time. Something else I have noticed was that the tire pressure increasing from 34 to 37 over the time of this ride along.  As the pressure increased the vibration was felt more.  So we are under the impression that the tires are heating up and causing the pressure to increase.  So to prove this theory, they are going to swap out the set for a different set of comparable size.  Im hoping that this fixes the issue but now hearing that you have been getting the same issue makes me worry.   Keep an eye on tire pressure on the interstate as the tires heat up.

 

 

Tire pressure rising while driving is 100% normal. 

 

Every 10 degrees F results in 1psi change up/down at cold pressure.  So if you set them 35psi on a 60 degree day, on a 90 degree day they will read 38psi before you even start down the road.  Again, completely normal.  Now add acceleration forces, braking, surrounding heat from brakes.  From cold tire to driving temps you can see a 2-4psi increase.  

 

The only fix they will possibly gain from swapping is proving the tires on your truck may have excessive road force or maybe one or more have a belt shifted, assuming the other wheels/tires make it ride totally smooth.

Edited by newdude
  • Like 2
CraneGuy Enthusiast

CraneGuy

Posted
Posted
On 7/27/2021 at 10:15 PM, seamus2154 said:

I too have a 2021 Denali Duramax with 22's. Same thing slight vibration, drove me nuts for 600 miles. I had similar issues with three of the previous generation truck. It was always the tires. The solution was to switch to Michelin defenders each time. So I sold off my rims and tires as a package and bought new Snowflake rims and Michelin Defender LTX. Smooth as glass. Also rides nicer on the Michelins. The Bridgestones were terrible just in ride quality alone, certainly didnt want to start chasing down bad tires too, which is always the case with Bridgestones. 

 
I have the stock Denali rims on my 21 and recently bought the Michelin’s and swapped out the bridgestones. I am still getting the vibration. I am thinking it might be the wheels. I had the same vibration on my 2020 so I traded it in. The trucks are exactly the same except my 21 has the mini max and my 20 had the 6.2. Very disappointing 

Firehawk99 Enthusiast

Firehawk99

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, CraneGuy said:

 
I have the stock Denali rims on my 21 and recently bought the Michelin’s and swapped out the bridgestones. I am still getting the vibration. I am thinking it might be the wheels. I had the same vibration on my 2020 so I traded it in. The trucks are exactly the same except my 21 has the mini max and my 20 had the 6.2. Very disappointing 

Do you miss the 6.2 at all? I have a 2021 TB with the 6.2 and have thought about getting an AT4 with the 3.0 diesel. I just really think I might regret it. The 6.2 10 speed is a beast!

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, CraneGuy said:

 
I have the stock Denali rims on my 21 and recently bought the Michelin’s and swapped out the bridgestones. I am still getting the vibration. I am thinking it might be the wheels. I had the same vibration on my 2020 so I traded it in. The trucks are exactly the same except my 21 has the mini max and my 20 had the 6.2. Very disappointing 

That is surprising. It is rare to have a bad Michelin tire but my tire guy said he has seen it a couple of times. Nothing like other brands. Michelin is usually always the fix. I would take the truck to a known quality tire shop with a roadforce balance machine. It will identify a bad rim, or tire or balance it out correctly. It may be that simple. good luck

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted
9 hours ago, Firehawk99 said:

Do you miss the 6.2 at all? I have a 2021 TB with the 6.2 and have thought about getting an AT4 with the 3.0 diesel. I just really think I might regret it. The 6.2 10 speed is a beast!

If you like passing other cars and going from 70 mph to 100 quickly you would notice a big difference. The 3.0 shines everywhere else. I loved the 6.2 it was an animal. I tow a race car, but wanted fuel mileage also. The 3.0 is an all around great package. It pulls strong and is very torquey in town but will not pass on the highway like a 6.2. That is the only downside. I drive 78-88 all day and its no slouch...but its no 6.2 in that one category. The mileage is crazy good. I get 24 mpg driving like an idiot. I get 28 being nice, and have gotten 30 being crazy. Very happy with the 3.0, does almost everything well. The 6.2 is a rocket ship hard to compare. So if that is what you like, and dont mind the fuel prices stay with the 6.2. 

Amcguy1970 Enthusiast

Amcguy1970

Posted
Posted
On 7/27/2021 at 9:15 PM, seamus2154 said:

I too have a 2021 Denali Duramax with 22's. Same thing slight vibration, drove me nuts for 600 miles. I had similar issues with three of the previous generation truck. It was always the tires. The solution was to switch to Michelin defenders each time. So I sold off my rims and tires as a package and bought new Snowflake rims and Michelin Defender LTX. Smooth as glass. Also rides nicer on the Michelins. The Bridgestones were terrible just in ride quality alone, certainly didnt want to start chasing down bad tires too, which is always the case with Bridgestones. 

 

1 hour ago, seamus2154 said:

That is surprising. It is rare to have a bad Michelin tire but my tire guy said he has seen it a couple of times. Nothing like other brands. Michelin is usually always the fix. I would take the truck to a known quality tire shop with a roadforce balance machine. It will identify a bad rim, or tire or balance it out correctly. It may be that simple. good luck

 

Not very often we find out what forum members do. Are you able to give employee discounts for Michelin to forum members? 

 

Tyler

seamus2154 Enthusiast

seamus2154

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, Amcguy1970 said:

 

 

Not very often we find out what forum members do. Are you able to give employee discounts for Michelin to forum members? 

 

Tyler

LOL Tire salesman would be a bit of a pay cut! But if you find any coupons or sales let me know, I need to switch my wifes GLC over to Michelin asap! It came with RF Pirelli Scorpions....horrible tire and ride. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Armydave81 Enthusiast

Armydave81

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/28/2021 at 12:55 PM, newdude said:

 

 

Tire pressure rising while driving is 100% normal. 

 

Every 10 degrees F results in 1psi change up/down at cold pressure.  So if you set them 35psi on a 60 degree day, on a 90 degree day they will read 38psi before you even start down the road.  Again, completely normal.  Now add acceleration forces, braking, surrounding heat from brakes.  From cold tire to driving temps you can see a 2-4psi increase.  

 

The only fix they will possibly gain from swapping is proving the tires on your truck may have excessive road force or maybe one or more have a belt shifted, assuming the other wheels/tires make it ride totally smooth.

The tires have been road force balanced twice.  Thats when they found the one bad tire already.  Both times they were "within limits".  I understand the theory with the tire pressure.  I lowered the cold pressure in order to see if it would make a difference.  So far, nothing has actually changed. The reason we were thinking it was because the pressures would go from 35 to 39 psi from just driving, not even adding the actual temperature outside into the equation. 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 8/7/2021 at 11:22 PM, Armydave81 said:

The tires have been road force balanced twice.  Thats when they found the one bad tire already.  Both times they were "within limits".  I understand the theory with the tire pressure.  I lowered the cold pressure in order to see if it would make a difference.  So far, nothing has actually changed. The reason we were thinking it was because the pressures would go from 35 to 39 psi from just driving, not even adding the actual temperature outside into the equation. 

 

 

Bring up the PicoScope to them.  All GM dealers have one (should have one).  Its a full blown vibration analyzer that can do way more than just vibrations.  They can hook that up to the truck and drive it to record all and any vibrations.  It will single out if its tire, engine, propshaft, etc. 

 

See if they will hook it up and have YOU drive it with the technician in the passenger seat running the scope that way YOU can try to replicate how and where it happens and he can record.  After reading your whole post again, it seems like they are stalling to use it/don't want to put the effort in.  

Edited by newdude

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 504 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...