Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all according to my dealer I should have my 2022 Silverado 2500HD in 2 weeks. (I have a build date of 8/30/21!)

 I ordered the dual Battery/Alternator option. Dose anyone on here know how this setup works? (Just incase my dealer is not suer) Is one battery just for the truck and one for a camper? I have had dual battery setup in some of my other vehicles but I installed them with a battery isloator. I plan on having a slide in pop up truck camper that I will be putting to good use this winter! Im from Michigan so its south or west for me! Thanks all!

 

HDHP

Posted

OH and one more thing. Why is there so many adds on this fourm? Every time Iclick on a new page there are like 5-10 of the same add. It is very Irrtating!

 

 

HDHP 

Posted
18 hours ago, hdhp said:

OH and one more thing. Why is there so many adds on this fourm? Every time Iclick on a new page there are like 5-10 of the same add. It is very Irrtating!

 

 

HDHP 

 

I use Ad Blocker Plus, its free and stops all of the ads.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Well I got my 2022 2500 HD whoop whoop! Now can someone explain the dual battery / alternator set up? In the mean time here are some pics.....

 

 

 

 

20210930_150642.jpg

20210930_150657.jpg

20210928_123228.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just received my 3500 last weekend and I too ordered the dual battery and alternators. My application was for the snow prep, and I did ask the dealer about the camper package that it was included in. So according to the dealer, your camper should benefit from the 2nd alternator keeping the 2nd battery fully charged

Posted

Short time lurker, first time poster... lol

Thanks for the input from everyone on this thread and the other aux alternator thread I read.

 

I did some study on this because it is something I'm very interested in for a new order.

Reviewing the schematics and the T of O, it appears there are two different ways the Aux Alt works.

 

W/o Snow plow package the 170A Auxiliary Alternator is in parallel operation with the 200A main alternator. The same control signal is sent from the BCM to both alternators through the "L" terminal.  Output operation is monitored through the F terminal from only the main alternator, and current sensor of primary battery, input to BCM.

I don't see a current sensor for C1B battery, nor a connection from F terminal to BCM of aux alternator.

Auxiliary Alt schematic is page 5-7 of the Electrical Body Builder Manual, and Main Alt schematic is page 5-6.  So you can see how they work in concert.

 

With Snow plow package (option VYU) the 170A Auxiliary Alternator will only be active when the controller from the Snow plow presents B+ at the "Snow Plow Relay".  The relay then closes allowing a path from BCM to "L" terminal. 

The output is still in parallel, but the control circuit is interrupted by that relay.

Snow Plow Aux Alt schematic is page 5-10 of the Electrical Body Builder Manual

 

There is not a separate charging schematic for Camper Package only, so most likely dual alt with camper only option would be as standard (Both alternators working in concert).

 

I've not seen an actual truck to see if the schematic is accurate, but GM schematics are normally pretty reliable.  Also I find nothing on the duty cycle rating of the Snow Plow Relay.  If it is not rated 100% that could be an issue for situations where long term use is needed.  Also how that relay would handle loading if connected to the Run circuit instead of the Accessory circuit.

I'm a bit disappointed in GMs choice, as they are way ahead of Snow Plow electronics technology that I've seen, so this was not necessary.  When possible it is always better not to modify the truck electrical so that defects in materials or workmanship of electrical/electronics are still covered by warranty.  i'll probably remove the snow plow relay on my truck and jumper terminal 30 to 87A.  But if an issue with anything in the electrical system comes up during the warranty period, the claim could be denied.

One thing that is pretty cool, is it looks like the main alternator uses an overrun clutch. 

 

If something I've stated is not correct, please feel free to correct me.

Thanks!

 

Scott

Auxiliary Charging Diagrams.pdf Auxiliary Charging T o fO.pdf Snow Plow Schematic.pdf

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...