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I own a 2020 Silverado with the 3.0 duramax. Love the truck and engine. My problem is it uses quite a bit of oil on long trips. No idea why it's fine in local driving but long trips makes a difference. Drove to Fla in June for a total of 1500 miles there and back. Just had it changed and checked it my self before we left. It was full. Checked it the day after we got home and it was two quarts low. The dealer did a consumption check but it was all local driving. Used about half a quart in 2000 miles. Anyone else with this problem? 

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1 hour ago, terry yonts said:

I own a 2020 Silverado with the 3.0 duramax. Love the truck and engine. My problem is it uses quite a bit of oil on long trips. No idea why it's fine in local driving but long trips makes a difference. Drove to Fla in June for a total of 1500 miles there and back. Just had it changed and checked it my self before we left. It was full. Checked it the day after we got home and it was two quarts low. The dealer did a consumption check but it was all local driving. Used about half a quart in 2000 miles. Anyone else with this problem? 

 

0W20 Dexos D oil meets the SAE SP and ILSAC GF-6A standards for NEW oil. The current two offerings come from the same source. Mobil Exxon. It has a 100 C viscosity of 7.3 cSt. Very close to the bottom of the 6.9 to <9.3 API standard. It's HTHS is unpublished but it is at least 2.6 cP at 150 C. This is a very VERY light 20W oil and it's intent is "Fuel Efficiency". 

 

In the build up to the SP standard allot of dirt was tossed into the air and the public assured that things like 'timing chain wear" were covered. Why would the public worry? Because most by now know that viscosity in the main driver in anti-wear NOT the additives. They are the backup and cold start means to that end. 

 

This 2.6 cP number is only good for NEW oil and it shears down with use. 2.6 cP is the minimum viscosity a machine can tolerate without excessive wear. Even if this could be covered by AW additives viscosities this low migrate past ring rapidly with increased heat, rpm and load. All things that happen on the Interstate at....How fast were your driving this trip?

 

Secondly oils this light have highER NOACK numbers. Yes they past the standard but what does that mean really? More is more period. 

 

There is a note in you manual, or was during the K2 series cautioning the owner that under the increased loads and rpm of towing for example the motor would use MORE oil than daily driving. And for the same reasons. 

 

The rings want a higher HTHS but the government want lower fuel consumption numbers. The motor is in a squeeze. 

 

 

 

 

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Mine has been great since I picked it up and  haven't had to add a drop between oil changes always on the full mark. It's done some good long runs and to Florida, just got back last week from the Black Hills and a extra 3300 miles and its still at the full mark. Its towed several trailers and really haven't been easy on it from day one, I don't follow the book break in either. It had the original factory oil and changed to Mobile 1 on first oil change. Getting ready to do another change and going with Amsoil this time around. Right close to 16,000 miles on it now. Used the recommended 0W-20 oil too.

 

Might also check your rear seal area to see if its still dry and no issues there. 

 

-Grover67

Edited by Grover67
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had a similar issue with a 2016 mustang and an older toyota and using a good synthetic worked, try this oil, it reduced the problem by 70% in my older toyota and I would say 80% in my mustang...this is for the 2500...

 

www.searchforparts.com/oil-change/chevrolet-trucks-2020-express-2500-6.0l-b-lc8

 

worth a try, worst case scenario you have fresh oil and eliminates the possibility of it being a certain brand of oil?

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I tow often with mine and noticed that I’m using about a quart between changes. Use the built in minder to determine oil change interval. When I’m not towing the consumption does seem to be minimal. 
 

btw check to make sure your checking dipstick on a level parking space and cold. I’ve noticed a considerable difference in the oil level depending on the terrain under the truck. This pan tends to require a very level location to get a good read. 

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2 hours ago, JP_Austin said:

btw check to make sure your checking dipstick on a level parking space and cold. I’ve noticed a considerable difference in the oil level depending on the terrain under the truck. This pan tends to require a very level location to get a good read. 

 

I just went through this with the wife's GM 2.4 Gas motor. 3* slope looks like half a cup on the stick and it is not linear. It also takes this motor about a hour to drain down hot. I don't know the specifics of the 3.0 but some things to look for. Level yes. TIME yes. The manual for the 2.4 mentions that the lower block is not the same volume per inch. Look your manual over closely. Talk to your service guy. Sometimes they get notes we mortals do not. (newdude is a great resource for this sort of thing 😉 ) OR direct measurement if you do your own work. Add that last quart 4 ounces at a time (half hour in between or what ever time it takes. A beer between fills :)  ) and observe. Take photos. It's quite an education. 

 

I actually went to the trouble of blocking the vehicle level on MY drive. Double check full then sit it down and find that mark and file a notch in the stick. Quite a difference. 

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