Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I have a 02 Sierra 1500 Z71  that has a shorting out issue. The gas gauge has been wonky since i bought it. To begin with if you had like 1/8-1/4 tank and stopped hard the gauge would not come back up after bottoming to the E on the stop. The truck would have issues now and then on the start (in my driveway in park) with the wipers not turning off past the slowest intermittent  speed after clearing the windshield.

Twice the issue also included the truck's engine  missing,  gauges going haywire , and i had to pedal it to keep it running.  Shutting it down and restarting "solved" the problem.  The gas gauge will stop working and sometimes take 5-10 mins to slowly come back up. The problem was more likely when i filled the truck up, and as of late filling it up  led to the same gauges going nuts, sputtering, and it was making the trans slip in and out of gear unless pushing it to like 4-5k to keep it moving. Let off the gas, and the truck would free wheel like there wasn't a higher gear. 

I stopped putting much over 1/2 tank in it as a bandaid, but 2 days ago it started doing the tranny thing with just 1/4 tank which it's never done. Twice in a month it's done it in stop and go traffic on the interstate.  Turning it off , and restarting it has "solved" the problem all but a few tries.  I blamed the issue on a ground? on the gas gauge float, but that doesn't explain it taking a fit while parked in the driveway.  Sorry to write a book, but it has alot of symptoms.  Anybody had to deal with something like this? 

Edited by grovey
Posted (edited)

never had to deal with all of this, but my 99 did have the gas gauge issue.  I ended up changing the pump and it all went away.  I was told at the time it was a sign the pump was going bad.  I honestly cant understand how that would have a problem with your truck running good, or your tranny having an issue.  To me that sounds like a ECM issue, especially since if you shut it off and restart it seems to correct the issue.

Edited by Sharpz
Posted

I agree with Sharps, but I think you have more than one bad ground. I would check the connections of the fuel tank float circuit from tank to gauge, and while you have the tank down and the tank is hopefully closer to empty rather than full change the float/pump assembly. That's where the fuel filter is as well (usually these days) and it prolly could use a new one, it certainly wouldn't hurt anything but your wallet. Try Amazon, Rock Auto, or Parts Geek.

The PCM may have poor connections/bad ground(s) and also if you have a computer controlled transmission you could be suffering from poor connections/bad grounds) there as well.

Good Luck!

Posted

Thank you for the replies.  I should of replaced the pump and cage long ago because of how it acts up. A buddy had a good used setup from a truck he parted, and the plan was to try that cage and a new pump, but i'm pretty sure that's been tossed now. When the tranny acts up the gauges are going haywire as well. The truck has never not started up, and the tranny has never acted up  without the gauges going haywire at the same time, but only once can i remember it running rough during the tranny acting up. It has never acted up past like 30-35 mph.   Sometimes when the gas gauge acts up it drops to E and a few seconds later it pops back up to full( after a fill up) Sometimes it'll take 5-10 mins to sloowly creep it's way back to the correct reading. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,782
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Newest Member
    ShowMeShooter1332
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 7,877 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was around and remember that era very well, so I'm calling b/s on that statement. If they were that bad no police department or taxi company would've bought a single one ... but they were used in both services (and fire) for DECADES. They were bulletproof and proven. Even the early 21st century ones weren't too bad! The early models were legendary.   Mine is proof, but people like atlas are blinded by agenda and refuse to believe facts right before their very eyes.   Even decades after they were built, a new generation started driving them, posting all their builds and shenanigans on Grandmarq.net and Crownvic.net. The failures would show up then, since they all were deep past 100k-150k miles by that point, and younger drivers tend to be a little aggressive, especially with vehicles than can lay a one-tire fire for as long as you hold your foot in it. They've more than proven themselves over the decades.   The only thing that'll really take them out is road salt. The bodies and sheet metal were garbage. A victim of the cheapout FoMoCo and GM have been partaking in before then, and since.   Today it's the stuff that counts - the undercarriage that rots away first!    GMs Caprice was no slouch either. Reliable as a stone ax - the opposite of what they build now.    
    • Let me know how your vehicles do in 10 years. You don't know ******, kid. 😂    There's a reason that Panther platform was used as police, fire, and taxi service for DECADES ... long before you were born, apparently.
    • If your connector also has a big lever to get the connector on and off, you don't want to force the lever either way, as it becomes a bigger problem if you bust the lever or the mechanism it works.
    • It's just useful to disconnect the battery to prevent odd shorting out when unplugging/plugging stuff together.  I also  touch the two cable ends together (after disonnecting) to drain the small amount of stored battery energy in various modules.   I believe the main system where you need to be more concerned with, so you need to do the above and then wait some time, iss when you are working on the air bag system, to prevent inadvertent firing of the air bags.   The in-cab switches are just that, plain switches, it's generally not a problem to swap them in/out.  For my '12, I'll get an error message on the dash if I power up the truck w them unplugged, but that's it (power up= turn the ignition on).   The ITBC located above the spare tire is a computer that manages the trailer brake system.  That is probably more important to have the battery disconnected.  It does have to be programmed to the truck, either before or after it's installed, for it to work.  For my '12, I had a very hard time reinstalling the main connector to it (IDK if yours is the same or not), it turned out the silicon seal was jamming up, preventing it from going on all the way.  I finally got it fully installed by lubing the seal with a bit of dielectric grease, then it slid on and latched in place easily.
    • JR ! I just got the truck back from the Dealership today . The technician did a cold remote start on the truck this morning and it made the noise . It was determined that it was a starter issue and replaced it under warranty . Of course   it did not make the sound after a new starter was put in because the truck was not cold . We will we see what happens tomorrow morning when I start the truck cold  . Keep tuned !   Oh I found a video on YouTube of a cold start and it did the same thing your truck and mine do , I will see if I can find it and post it up
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...