Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So i bought a pretty nice 2018 sierra slt premium plus with low miles at a good price last week in michigan. Well after getting it in the air i noticed that it has a lot of rust for an 18. Almost looks like the sand on the roads had sand blasted it. I want to clean everything and get the undercoating done. And possibly spray all the other parts that are not coated by the undercoating. Are there any good sprays to soak this down before pressure washing? Does anyone else have this amount of rust also?

20211130_192726.jpg

Posted

Too late for undercoating. IMO.

You'll just be encasing the rust and it will rot from the inside out.

How many miles are on it?

They never washed it much I bet.

If it was mine....Powerwash it to get the dirt off and spray everything with Rust Reformer

 

flat-black-rust-oleum-automotive-general-purpose-spray-paint-248658-64_1000.jpg

Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, theperfectv said:

So i bought a pretty nice 2018 sierra slt premium plus with low miles at a good price last week in michigan. Well after getting it in the air i noticed that it has a lot of rust for an 18. Almost looks like the sand on the roads had sand blasted it. I want to clean everything and get the undercoating done. And possibly spray all the other parts that are not coated by the undercoating. Are there any good sprays to soak this down before pressure washing? Does anyone else have this amount of rust also?

20211130_192726.jpg

 

 

I've seen that before.  Lots.  

 

Ex Canadian truck?  These northern state dealers so NY, MI, PA, VT, CT, MASS buy trucks out of Quebec or Ontario (because exchange rates were in favor quite a bit on our end).  Lots of them come from fleet or rental companies.  I can see sand and lots of it.  Seen 2019s and 2020s that look like this too.  The way your exhaust looks is a dead giveaway for me if I'm right about it being Canadian.  The scaley and the sandy/brown colors on everything.  

 

Scan the QR barcode in the driver door jamb, that's the RPO label (SPID label) and look for Z49.  

 

GM has a procedure for re-doing the peeling wax on these trucks.  Strip the wax with a wax remover/grease remover, wire brush or big whizz wheel the frame clean, use Lloyd's pure prep, followed by Lloyd's Kryptonite and then Daubert NoxRust 121B.  The Lloyds Kryptonite bonds to the bare metal unlike a paint that can easily scrape off.  

 

Bulletin below:

 

19-NA-255 1..10 (nhtsa.gov)

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted

I live at the beach, so I just use Ospho (phosphoric acid) to spray the under carriage. just don't get it on the paint. It comes in different strengths so get a fairly med. strength, Paint and body suppliers carry it. It converts the iron oxide to iron phosphate. It's even paintable. But you do have a lot of rust, so it may take a lot.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...