Installing Hardwired Dash Camera In 2019 Yukon, Needing Constant & Switched Power Circuits

[BlaineBug]

I have a dash camera already installed 2 weeks ago.  Bought some of those fuse taps and found that the new GMs use funky fuses, so I had to wait and order the correct style.  They've finally arrived, and I'm ready to hardwire this dash camera.  What I need is 1 constant power circuit for normal camera operation and 1 switched power circuit for parking mode.  It's easy to check circuits with a volt meter to find out which are dead with the key off and which aren't.  However, I have no clue if power to some circuits times out on a delay, such as the radio circuit.  Considering the doors are open when I'm testing these circuits, I want to be absolutely certain which circuits I tap into.  Also I'm preferring to tap into non-crucial circuits in the event of a camera malfunction.  I'd rather be without heated seats than BCM power, after all!  Thanks.

[cs15dah]

Why not use wire taps into the back of your rear view mirror? You can buy the wire taps off eBay fairly cheap and Google or YouTube to see which wire to use. 

Edited January 26, 2022 by cs15dah

[Ianf]

Check GM upfitter website for the SEO pin locations in the inside og the cab. There should be spare pins for RAP and constant power.

 

[BlaineBug]

1 hour ago, cs15dah said:

Why not use wire taps into the back of your rear view mirror? You can buy the wire taps off eBay fairly cheap and Google or YouTube to see which wire to use. 

I'm not a fan of those wire tap things, they are garbage as far as I am concerned.  Also there is more to installing it than just a wire that you can splice into rearview mirror wires.  There's also a circuit box I believe to differentiate the constant and switched power circuits.  I have everything nicely organized and tucked, zip tied already behind the driver side cab fuse access door.  I have never used a fuse tap before but I hear they are decent.  They use 2 fuses so your original circuit remains with the original amperage fuse and then your new circuit, this case the camera, will receive a 5 amp fuse.

[BlaineBug]

1 hour ago, Ianf said:

Check GM upfitter website for the SEO pin locations in the inside og the cab. There should be spare pins for RAP and constant power.

 

Where are these pins you speak of?  And this applies to all of the SUVs, not just the Police PPV and SSV Tahoes?  I know I can move a fuse in the panel to switch from switched accessory outlets to constant power, but I prefer to leave the accessory outlets as switched power.  There's a square fuse and 3 pins, you move it one direction or the other to make contact with 1 set of 2 pins or the other set.  But I can't tap that style fuse with these fuse taps anyway.  It wouldn't work, unless you're talking about something else that I am not aware of.

[Ianf]

There should be a separate box under the dash that has the upfitter pins for all aux wiring requirements. I know on the GMT900 series it is by the brake pedal. I do not know where it is in the other models but the GMUPFITTER.com website has all the wiring information for all GM trucks including the Yulon. The manuals are several hundred pages long and have all the info you need, you just have to spend the time to digest the information and find the box with the connectors. The description of the pinouts is in the manuals in the link i provided.

 

[BlaineBug]

7 minutes ago, Ianf said:

There should be a separate box under the dash that has the upfitter pins for all aux wiring requirements. I know on the GMT900 series it is by the brake pedal. I do not know where it is in the other models but the GMUPFITTER.com website has all the wiring information for all GM trucks including the Yulon. The manuals are several hundred pages long and have all the info you need, you just have to spend the time to digest the information and find the box with the connectors. The description of the pinouts is in the manuals in the link i provided.

 

I have a large box near the brake pedal that has a cover with 3 tabs that hold it on.  This was where my brake controller wire harness plugged into.  But as far as auxiliary power feeds I don't believe they provide those with civilian vehicles.  That would likely be PPV or SSV only.  The GM Upfitter website has very little information available for my vehicle.  I'd imagine if they provided it for all civilian vehicles at some point they eliminated it to cut costs.

[Ianf]

Are there unused taps in that box? If so, test them for power and note their state (RAP or constant and use them for your dash cam. That box on the 2010 I have, which is a base model, had all the wiring in there for my dashcam and any aux wiring I might need. GMupfitters showed me which to use for my needs. They may have cut those feeds in later years but I doubt it as it would be too expensive to make multiple harnesses. I know is was still on the pickups of your model year.

 

[BlaineBug]

I know what you're talking about.  In the driver side footwell the black box has an extra unused plug slot that has the ground, constant power, and switched power feeds you are describing.  I read in another thread about that yesterday morning.  You can either attempt to locate the plug or some users used teeny tiny spade connectors are the pins are tiny.  I didn't go that route.

For the dash camera's switched power I used a fuse tap on the RPO power fuse in the driver's side dash fuse box.  And for the camera's constant power I used a spade terminal plugging directly into the constant voltage feed beside the large fuse that can be moved over for the interior accessory outlets.  I of course added an in-line fuse for this circuit as well so everything is fuse protected.  Works so far, haven't driven anywhere with it yet except around the block.  This should give the camera the ability to record in parking mode as well with the +12 volt constant power feed.

[BlaineBug]

3 hours ago, Ianf said:

Are there unused taps in that box? If so, test them for power and note their state (RAP or constant and use them for your dash cam. That box on the 2010 I have, which is a base model, had all the wiring in there for my dashcam and any aux wiring I might need. GMupfitters showed me which to use for my needs. They may have cut those feeds in later years but I doubt it as it would be too expensive to make multiple harnesses. I know is was still on the pickups of your model year.

 

 

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/155775-2014-rap-retained-accessory-power/

 

Here's the power feeds you are referring to.  Pretty neat they are still included, but from what I read, if you want to do it "right" the actual plug that fits this particular unused slot may be difficult to source.

[cs15dah]

On 1/26/2022 at 8:50 AM, BlaineBug said:

I'm not a fan of those wire tap things, they are garbage as far as I am concerned.  Also there is more to installing it than just a wire that you can splice into rearview mirror wires.  There's also a circuit box I believe to differentiate the constant and switched power circuits.  I have everything nicely organized and tucked, zip tied already behind the driver side cab fuse access door.  I have never used a fuse tap before but I hear they are decent.  They use 2 fuses so your original circuit remains with the original amperage fuse and then your new circuit, this case the camera, will receive a 5 amp fuse.

 

 

Not the wire taps that "splice" into the factory wiring, but push pins that slide into the connector along the bare wire that's already exposed.  Here's an example, and they work really well and really easy:  https://blendmount.com/mirrortap

[BlaineBug]

3 hours ago, cs15dah said:

 

 

Not the wire taps that "splice" into the factory wiring, but push pins that slide into the connector along the bare wire that's already exposed.  Here's an example, and they work really well and really easy:  https://blendmount.com/mirrortap

I haven't seen taps like that before other than for electrical diagnostics such as backprobing connectors.  That doesn't seem like a "permanent" solution in my mind.  If it works, it works.  I just prefer soldering 99% of the time.  They also have those watertight shrink wrap wire connectors that have solder in them that only requires a heat gun to melt.  I'd also rate that as acceptable although I have not used one personally.  I also understand that mechanics in a shop will never be as precise or a-n-a-l as I am with my own vehicle, as soldering definitely adds minutes to any job.

Edited February 7, 2022 by BlaineBug

[BlaineBug]

2 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

I haven't seen taps like that before other than for electrical diagnostics such as backprobing connectors.  That doesn't seem like a "permanent" solution in my mind.  If it works, it works.  I just prefer soldering 99% of the time.  They also have those watertight shrink wrap wire connectors that have solder in them that only requires a heat gun to melt.  I'd also rate that as acceptable although I have not used one personally.  I also understand that mechanics in a shop will never be as precise or a-n-a-l as I am with my own vehicle, as soldering definitely adds minutes to any job.

Regardless my camera install has worked flawless now for almost 2 weeks, both with ignition only power and constant power for parking monitoring.  I'm satisfied and have a 1,100 mile road trip coming up in just a few days which is great timing for a dash camera.