Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 5/28/2024 at 4:20 PM, MayorMike said:

Tried that. Didn't work for me. I am excited about the start button press etc..

Has anybody had any luck figuring out what the problem to this is? My 2021 GMC Sierra SLT has started doing this in the mornings. 

Posted
56 minutes ago, cranium2001 said:

Did you see the TSB I posted earlier in this thread? Knock on wood mines been fine so far.

Sorry for my ignorance for what may be a stupid questions but what is TSB? Technical Service Bulletin? If so, what exactly did the dealership do to fix yours? I tried the “cheat code” and it worked fine but it’s been doing it the last 3 days for me. Typically in the mornings and throughout the day it is fine. 

Posted
1 hour ago, cranium2001 said:

Did you see the TSB I posted earlier in this thread? Knock on wood mines been fine so far.

Can you repost it? I saw THAT you posted there was a bulletin, but I'm not seeing details of the bulletin itself from you...

Posted
2 minutes ago, cranium2001 said:

It wouldn't let me quote, but there's the technical service bulletin.

Thanks for this! I scheduled an appointment for Thursday with my local dealership. Did you get charged for this? My truck is out of warranty at 51K miles but I did purchase an extended warranty. Rep quoted me $200 just for a diagnostic… Hopefully this is an easy fix. 

Posted
26 minutes ago, cranium2001 said:

It wouldn't let me quote, but there's the technical service bulletin.

Thanks! 

  • Like 1
Posted

Unfortunately it is not an easy fix and you should not be charged for this known issue. GM has dropped the ball on this. It will take something more, I fear, before we get them to take responsibility for this.

Posted
9 minutes ago, MayorMike said:

Unfortunately it is not an easy fix and you should not be charged for this known issue. GM has dropped the ball on this. It will take something more, I fear, before we get them to take responsibility for this.

I know you have been dealing with this for 2 years. Have you gotten yours fixed? Does it happen to you every single day or does it go away for a while and comeback? 

Posted

If it happened every day they could probably find a solution. No, it just happens at the most inconvenient times. It is generally after a remote start so it occurs more in the colder months. But I have had it happen other times as well. It is a known issue to GMC but they leave it to the dealerships to find the answer. This is something the company should be troubleshooting and fixing. Mine started under the original warranty and I have an extended warranty as well. I feel for those who have had this begin after the original warranty. It is still not fixed even after the replacement of the BCM and various other items. GMC tried to close the case earlier but it is not closed with me. I am waiting to hear from my dealership (who are as perplexed as I am) to see if they have received any help from GMC. I fear the next step is my attorney. I am very sorry for your issue. It takes a truck that you love and makes you question its reliability every day. I can tell you that sucks!

Posted

I used the truck over the last 3 days. Went to use it today and completely dead. I had to use the key in the remote to get in so I could open the hood. Dead as a doornail. I'm at the end of my rope. I've been a good guy about it but I  am realizing I am wasting my time. No one is taking this seriously. I am after almost three years of this crap.

Posted
1 hour ago, MayorMike said:

I used the truck over the last 3 days. Went to use it today and completely dead. I had to use the key in the remote to get in so I could open the hood. Dead as a doornail. I'm at the end of my rope. I've been a good guy about it but I  am realizing I am wasting my time. No one is taking this seriously. I am after almost three years of this crap.

Hey Mike, sorry you still have to go through this. Just thought I would update you, not sure if this fixed the problem for me but my truck has been fine for days now. It seemed to me that the truck was in “learning mode” and the cycle never finished which is why it wouldn’t start at times. I figured out that “cheat code” of holding the start button is the way to get out of the “learning mode” so what I did was looked up a video on how to program the remote. You have to insert the key manually and turn it clockwise 5 times. When I did this in the dash it went straight to “ready for remote 3” it didn’t start learning cycle from the very beginning. This is why it lead me to think that the whole time the truck was in “learning mode” but never finished. I kept trying and eventually the cycle started from the beginning. You have to turn the key counter clockwise 5 times the dash while say “learning mode” you press the start button and wait ten minutes and repeat three times. By the third time you place the remotes in the center console. Once the dash says “ready for remote 3” you press the start for 12 seconds to exit and finish the remote learning process. Once again, not sure if this fixed it for me but it makes sense from my thinking and my truck has been fine ever since. Hope this helps 

  • Like 1
Posted

Right now the truck is completely dead. I put a trickle charge on it and the lights would randomly flash about every 30 seconds. I put a full charger on it and it immediately triggered the alarm. I hit lock on the remote. Everything is crazy saying service the power steering,  lower the driver window, service power brakes, etc.. I  figure this is due to the drained battery. I put the charger in start mode and let it go for a few minutes. I pushed on the brake and pushed on the start. The truck tried to start but pushed the brake pedal back at me almost immediately and died. The only good news is it is happening at my house so at least I'm not stranded. The good news for many of you out of warranty is that those of us who have been dealing with this while it was originally under warranty are just as screwed. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,100 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...