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I cannot figure out my issue! Need help please!

Roland Aguinaga
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Roland Aguinaga New Member

Roland Aguinaga

Posted
Posted

My truck is 2007 Chevy Silverado LT, 5.3L with 2WD. For almost two weeks now, I have had some knocking, thudding from what seems to be my front driver side tire. I can feel it under my foot while I'm driving. It almost sounds like something is hitting or knocking against something with each rotation. It is consistent with accelerating and decelerating. My two front tires were in VERY bad shape and so I'm assumed it was that. I had two new tires installed a couple days ago (Nitto Terra Grapplers 305/60/R18), but still have the same sound and feel. So today, I jacked up the truck, took the brake pads and rotors off to look at them, and on the driver side the inside of the rotor was wore very unevenly so I assumed that was the issue now. Changed that rotor and the brake pads and I am STILL having the issue. I don't know much about the front end past the wheel hub, but from what I do know, the ball joints, control arm, and struts seem ok for now. They don't seem to be in terrible terrible bad shape, nor do they seem to be making that noise. The wheel hubs seemed ok as well, I spun them and did not get any sounds like I was hearing while driving. The inside of the rim looks good as well, nothing at all seems to be hitting the rim once I put everything back on so I'm just lost right now. I'm going to take it to a mechanic somewhere this week or next, but I thought I'd post this first and see if any of you would have any ideas. Thank you in advance for anyone that replies! 

hallal999 Enthusiast

hallal999

Posted
Posted

If the rotor was worn unevenly then that suggests a stuck brake pad? I usually go to the caliper pins 1st in that scenario. Did you take the pins out of the caliper to inspect that they were not frozen up and/or still had adequate grease on them?

txab Senior Enthusiast

txab

Posted
Posted

When he says to grease them, you're going to be looking to use grease designed for brake work.

 

 

 

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  • Like 1
hallal999 Enthusiast

hallal999

Posted
Posted

Good call on the that brand of grease. There are lots of options but that is a solid choice.

 

If you are in the area you should also take a good look at the rubber boots on the caliper pins. Make sure they are still reasonably pliable and not torn etc. If torn the grease can escape and contaminants can get in.

 

They make replacement kits if you have an issue. 

dna9656 Enthusiast

dna9656

Posted
Posted

Defiantly DON"T use chassis grease/wheel bearing grease! You can get a plastic jar with an integrated brush, it's prolly last you 10 or 15 years unless you do a LOT of brake jobs, I was for a while and bought the jar. Get some "acid" brushes and use that to apply the grease SPARINGLY to the necessary areas. You should be able to locate these areas on the internet, but I lube all surfaces that rub another surface and the guide pins/bolts. You should see SOME residue of where it was grease in the past but then again most of the guys I knew even in retail shops I worked in DIDN'T properly lube the brake system; if there was any sign of grease they didn't take the time because they thought the 2 minutes it took to lube it was time the could be spent on the next job, the bad side of flat rate shops. When I do a bake job I use a wire (tooth brush style) brush and hit all the rusty/crusty areas I'm going to lube. You don't want to use a wire brush of any kind on the caliper pins/bolts; they have a plating or coating that resists rust so I clean those with a parts brush and lacquer thinner in a shallow pan 2' X 7" X 10" baking pans (measurements are approx) make great parts cleaning pans. I get them clean, apply the proper lube and put lock tight on the threads, a drop is all that's needed. Be sure to use a torque wrench on all the fasteners; nuts, bolts/pins. I might get some comments on this stating that;s not critical, well what's MORE critical than your ability to stop? That factory uses torque wrenches, the dealers use then as do the truly pro shops; it's legally required to do it because the OEM says so in the OEM service manual, it's the correct way to it and because not doing In Accordance With (IAW)  leaves the mechanic and the shop liable for at least illegal service practices and if there's a collision and it's found that the brake job was done incorrectly it gets really ugly.

Brenden Burnham Enthusiast

Brenden Burnham

Posted
Posted (edited)

I still feel that you have an issue elsewhere. What you do is jack up the truck firmly grasp the top of tire and pull in and out.  If you have movement you have a bad wheel hub/bearing.  This also could of been the cause of your rotor uneven wear no doubt.  So check the wheel for play if you have then you most definitely have a bad hub.  Easy enough to replace there is tons of YT videos on doing so.  Depending on rust and longevity that hub can be a PITA to break free and get off.  A few different methods to get it done though.  

 

You may only get the noise when under pressure and why you may not when you just free spin it.  I am pretty sure it is your wheel hub.

Edited by Brenden Burnham

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