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Posted

Matt, yes a real PIA to do what should have been a standard lighting feature.

I just tested adding another KC Cyclone LED under the door panel bottom pocket. Lights up the running board and ground below very well.  Wires will have to go from door check arm opening, to the A pillar lower rubber hole plug, thru a Dorman type 1/4" plastic flex rib wire conduit.. Found a You Tube video on how to pull the door panel card off safely.

File size of this  pic  may not make the cut.

My choice of the  Kc's, found they need at least 7.5 vdc. to light up, although dim. On 12 v. they rock !  So I needed to design the relay to power the coil off the Dome / Map PWM circuit.

Added a Little Fuse piggyback tap in the passenger fuse box, for the solid 12v.

Using the strip LED's like you did, work great off the existing 5.6 vdc. PWM interior circuit. Much less complicated, than what I got myself into with the KC's.

 

Booo, would not me  load the pic with both LED's, was 5.1 mb., so this  will have to do. Take my word, the door under panel LED under the bottle holder area, is the cherry on top of this project.  This under dash LED gets some ground lit, but not the running boards at all.

GMC '24 ADD FLOOR ONLY LED's.jpg

Posted

Matt / All: 

Able to re-size this pic down to 1.3mb.  My KC Cyclone puck "Rock Lights". do clear the sill plate mounted to the door bottom trim, if screwed thru it's center hole into the door card plastic, under the front cup holder pocket.

It will hit if Velcro is used, as I found with this first test, just to hold in place, and get this pic.

I plan to route the two wire #18ga. with a split rib 1/4" wire loom conduit, up past the speakers, thru the door check arm opening, and into the lower A Pillar rubber grommet plug.

Using the RGB LED's you have, should have no issue driving them off the Sill Plate LED X-1 Pin-1 circuit.

With LED's like the KC's I have, must use that X-1 circuit, with a 300mfd. Cap, diode and 220 OHM resistor, to drive a mini Amphenol 5vdc relay for a strong 12 vdc. & added 5 amp piggyback fuse off the fuse box.

Will not get the full Light theater fade on/off of the Dome/Map lights, but at least it is controlled by the doors automatically.

I "T" Tapped into the Dome/map White/Green wire, in the front roof pod, which is the same Interior Lamp Control like the X-1_Pin-1.  This in the White connector to the right of the Grey Sunroof plug, and far right black plug.

What an ordeal of R&D.

GMC '24 DOOR & KNEE KICK LED'S ADDED_1.3mb..jpg

'24 GMC MAP LED WIRE.JPG.jpg

Posted

Door LED wiring.....Ideas.........

I do have some 1/4" o.d. split wire loom left, would be an option, although not my best choice.

Quick search on Sumitt and Jeg's, found some very nice specific door jamb wire loom kits, like for adding power windows, locks, speaker etc. One is GM A body door jamb specific, may be too short.

These will require a right angle drill or Dremel type adaptor, to put a hole in the door by the check arm.

Search of some Street Rod site would have kit like these as well.

Want to keep it OEM looking best as possible. I'm not a hacker.

 

KP.

Posted

Door existing rubber wire boot I was able to pull out each end out of the sheetmetal, to explore possible snaking of power wires for adding a LED to the door bottom trim.

Door end is a straight shot in with the wire harness with no obstructions.

"A"  Pillar side more complex and tight, but possible. Long vertical fixed connector, but some space above it to feed wire thru. Need to get my Milwaukee LCD cavity camera to poke in there tomorrow when the rain stops, to see if it goes thru the 2 or 3 layers of sheetmetal, to exit into where the BCM module resides. ( where the X-1 connector is for adding the LED Sill Plate kit).

Let Ya'll know.

FYI: Did find some great wiring web sites , "keepitcleanwiring.com", has several types of door loom kits, and  Ron Francis Wire Works ( has really cool Heat Shrink Tube in a Woven Material, 1/2, 3/4, 1" I.D. ) that would match up to Dorman Builder Series split woven wire loom.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/28/2023 at 7:38 PM, RafaelLujan said:

Im trying to install the same illuminated door sills on my 2022 Refresh Denali as well and this thread is definitely helpful! I do have one question though on how the wire harness that comes with the door sills gets its power.
 

There is a grey wire on the harness that has some sort of connector. If I’m understanding your thread correctly, I literally just pull the black X1 connector from the BCM, open it up and push the connector from the wiring harness into the “1” slot? No t tapping or anything like that with this harness? Thank you for your help!

I have 2023 gmc sierra elevation and I added footwell leds. You take the last black connector towards firewall and slot 1 which is empty I put a paper clip in it and added a but connector to the end of the paper clip connected the wire and grounded the other wire, now my LED’s turn on and fade out with the dome lights and turn on when any door opens. Thank you guys.

  • 2 months later...
  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)

Using the knowledge you guys have unlocked for footwell/kick plates and assuming the x1 pin1 will work for 'white' assist lighting for runnign board lights, my question is as follows:

 

According to upfitters electric body building document for the 2023 silverado:

X1 pin1 shows 'not occupied' and you guys say it works for the interior lighting switch 

X2 pins 1-4 show the same thing, but the right/left turn signals are on pin 23 and 29 on x2, think i can wire the interior light on x2 also? (i don't own a multimeter, should probably go buy one lol)

 

Also do you think the pin labled "Headlamp switch park lamp signal" is what my led manufacturer means by "+12V Parking lights"?

 

Their installation instructions leave a lot to be desired, 4 wires and all they say are:

White - +12V Door assist

Red - +12V Parking LIghts

Yellow - +12V Turn signal

Black - Ground

 

Thank you in advance!

Edited by ftb3
Posted
On 3/28/2024 at 9:56 AM, ftb3 said:

Using the knowledge you guys have unlocked for footwell/kick plates and assuming the x1 pin1 will work for 'white' assist lighting for runnign board lights, my question is as follows:

 

According to upfitters electric body building document for the 2023 silverado:

X1 pin1 shows 'not occupied' and you guys say it works for the interior lighting switch 

X2 pins 1-4 show the same thing, but the right/left turn signals are on pin 23 and 29 on x2, think i can wire the interior light on x2 also? (i don't own a multimeter, should probably go buy one lol)

 

Also do you think the pin labled "Headlamp switch park lamp signal" is what my led manufacturer means by "+12V Parking lights"?

 

Their installation instructions leave a lot to be desired, 4 wires and all they say are:

White - +12V Door assist

Red - +12V Parking LIghts

Yellow - +12V Turn signal

Black - Ground

 

Thank you in advance!

No, only X1 pin 1 will be the interrior dome light signal. All other pins serve different functions.

 

The headlamp switch signal you mentioned is probably the physical switch signal itself from the switch on your dash board, not the parking light signal you need.

 

Ill have to look back where I got my parking light signal from, give me a moment.

Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, matt99199 said:

No, only X1 pin 1 will be the interrior dome light signal. All other pins serve different functions.

 

The headlamp switch signal you mentioned is probably the physical switch signal itself from the switch on your dash board, not the parking light signal you need.

 

Ill have to look back where I got my parking light signal from, give me a moment.

If your truck is like mine and a newer or refreshed model then the BCM and ELM are back to back on the same bracket.

We have been talking about the BCM this whole time but on the ELM X1 should be pink and the pin 1 of that X1 connector should be your parking light wire.

It will be thicker and can be T tapped off of directly.

Just ignore the anode and cathode stuff below, that was for me and putting diodes in to trigger functions (boost auto mods but done myself).

Screenshot_20240331_190921_OneDrive.jpg

Edited by matt99199
Posted (edited)

Wooo awesome thank you! Matt I was pretty sure that was the correct answer I just wanted to make sure.  So it appears I have to tie into 4 pins for parking, curtesy (white door open) and left/right turn signal.   I have to double check the names of the turn signals now to make sure I’m not trying into the switch but into the “light” because I’d like them to flash with hazards too. 

Edited by ftb3
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
15 minutes ago, matt99199 said:

Link to buy the pins crimped on wires has changed:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/135030851502

Thanks for the updated link, just curious is that $5 per cable so $40 for the job I need to do, or is it $5 for what i see in the picture lol (one is a lot easier to explain to the wife)

Posted
14 minutes ago, ftb3 said:

Thanks for the updated link, just curious is that $5 per cable so $40 for the job I need to do, or is it $5 for what i see in the picture lol (one is a lot easier to explain to the wife)

Just one is needed to plug into X1 pin 1 and get the signal out.

Posted
3 hours ago, matt99199 said:

Just one is needed to plug into X1 pin 1 and get the signal out.

i have 4 wires per running board light, do i not need one for each wire?

Posted
49 minutes ago, ftb3 said:

i have 4 wires per running board light, do i not need one for each wire?

No, you would have to splice all four of those into one wire that feeds into X1 pin 1.

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