Jump to content

Leveling an HD

Bloody Marty

By Bloody Marty
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bloody Marty Enthusiast

Bloody Marty

Posted
Posted (edited)

Can someone tell me the difference in a "leveling kit" as opposed to just cranking up the existing torsions with stock keys?  Most all kits I see are just keys anyway.  I know to get an alignment regardless.  I just swapped out my '22 3500 LT (that I turned up the torsions on with no apparent problems after 10K miles) for a '23 2500 LTZ that's still completely stock for now.

Thanks for any responses!!

Edited by Bloody Marty
kylant Enthusiast

kylant

Posted
Posted

if you just turn up the keys you reduce the available travel of the shocks, and more than likely create a top out condition. makes the ride harsh.

cranking keys also changes the angle of the UCA ball joint. the new angle can cause ball joint failure. more likely to happen on 1/2 ton trucks because the ball joints are much weaker. I just saw this the other day. UCA ball joint failed, ended up destroying the UCA, LCA, ripped the cv axle out from the diff, tore all the abs and brake lines. 

 

so to do it properly, you should get longer shocks (not a fan of shock extensions)

and get new UCA's that address ball joint angle.

also, some say a diff drop kit is needed. I am on the fence about this one. i had one on my 2020, but not on my current 2022. no issues yet. a diff drop does not do anything to address the tie rod angles. i feel the tie rod joint angles are more of a concern than the angle of the cv axles (within reason)

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Core-Lokt
      Fluid Change Questions

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      I know; crap pictures.   Anyway, as a finale of sorts to this thread, I had replaced both differential covers and since they had the capability of adding temperature probes, I did that. These are MaxTow analog/digital gauges with stepper motors. They'll flutter around like crazy for a moment and start at a nominal 100 degrees Fahrenheit.   I drove a 30-mile loop to the grocery store, averaging 70 MPH (as much as 80 to see if there was a quick spike in temperature. The air temperature is 102 (ambient ?). but the first pic is 7 miles into the trip. The second is getting back into the truck after leaving the store; differential temperatures dropped about three to four degrees in 15 minutes. The third pic in on the road to my house, about a mile away.   In that run, I saw a high of 150F on the rear differential, and 121F on the front. I'm sure a longer drive or towing will see higher than that, and when that happens, I can update the observations. 
    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      Naaa
    • Grumpy Bear
      Vehicle Payments

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      You don't want to become predictable now, do you? 😏
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Fully warm, coolant temp >194, closed loop.   Run time can be anywhere from just reached operating temperature to having driven 30+ miles.   The O2 chart (which is a feature I just discovered after reading) for the bad idle seems to be "most" of the time. For the little time I've been watching it (scanning and driving! watchout!) I can't seem to isolate any cause or condition yet.   It definitely idles rougher sometimes than others and so far what I've seen is the rougher idles are always rich. But not enough to set a CEL.   In other news I replaced the starter solenoid. Everything on this truck is such a PITA. Starter "snout" is mangled up with the torque converter inspection cover which is tangled up with hard cooling lines and the driveshaft. But I got 'er done without too much swearing...I just go into everything now knowing it's going to be a frustrating mess.   The starter solenoid replacement kicks off the next round of work: AC, injector rebuild, cat, exhaust. I'm just going to do it all. But first:   I don't know what my fuel pressures are. I can't definitively say the issue is the injector without first verifying fuel pressures and any leakdown. I "rented" a test kit ($199.99 at O'Really's ...intentional misspelling). They don't "rent" tools anymore, they charge you for the tool and then you return it when you're done. No joke. It is listed as a rental on the receipt but the guy told me there's no difference between renting and buying  now, you just return it when you're done and they refund the credit card. Mmmkay, whatever.   I will rule out fuel pressure issues (too much), and any leaking (that's how I'll know the problem is inside the intake). I think someone said the return line could be plugged or not flowing and that could cause high fuel pressure (and too much fuel being pushed through injectors). I'll cross that bridge if I get high readings.   As of now I'm ready to tear off the intake cover, extract the injector, and have it sent off to be rebuilt just so I can rule that out.
    • asilverblazer
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      What are the conditions of this rich idle? Warm or cold engine? Run time? Does every idle look like this or only sometimes?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...