Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi folks,

I'm hoping somebody can tell me what's going on here. I know just enough about cars to get myself in trouble.

 

I have a 1998 Sierra 1500 pickup, 190,000 miles, Vortex 5.7 2WD.

 

It runs fine overall, but over the last several months it has begun doing this thing where the engine temperature will jump back forth between normal temp and WAY up. I can watch it move up and down on the instrument panel. It doesn't do it constantly, but regularly. Several seconds climbing up, it'll stay up for a couple minutes and then drop back down over several seconds and so on.

 

I changed the thermostat and filled up the coolant a couple months ago and it seemed ok for a while, but is doing it again now.

 

This morning I had some smoke or steam coming out from under the hood. Not a ton, but it was. I took a look at it, but can't tell if it's gunk burning off the block and valve cover or steam escaping from somewhere. It smells more like steam and it's only coming from the drivers side of the motor toward the front.

 

Some possible clues that may or may not be related in various degrees.

 

When I start it sometimes there is a distinct ticking. Sometimes. At first I thought it was a lifter, but I've never heard of a ticking lifter that stops ticking intermittently. The ticking, when present, stops after a few minutes of the engine running. It Seems that whenever it starts  up with the immediate ticking the temperature issue isn't as bad, but when it starts without the ticking, the temp goes up faster and the fluctuation is worse.  That SEEMS to be a pattern. I can't confirm that 100%.

 

After a couple minutes of running I hear the sloshing of water running through something under the dashboard (heater core?) Also the cab heat seems to be working less and less and when the engine temp is up it doesn't work at all.

 

The main top radiator hose has very little pressure in it. Either when running or after I turn it off. I can easily squeeze it either way.

 

It is going through coolant with fair regularity. I have to add like a half gallon like once a week so maybe this is just a leak somewhere?

 

Money is really tight. I can't afford to take it somewhere right now.

 

I know it's tough to diagnose anything in a forum thread without seeing it, but any insight on this would be very much appreciated.

Thanks so much.

Posted

you have a head gasket problem or even possible cracked head. your temp gauge and heater core are telling you you have air in the system. i cant remember what years it involved but gm did have a problem of head cracking. you could try a stop leak product, just make sure to pinch off the heater lines if you do use a stop leak product

Posted (edited)

 

Ok, I put in some Bar's Leaks copper according to the instructions and that stopped the leak. Or certainly seems to have stopped it. No more spittling or steam.

 

Here's a REALLY good one now though that I don't think is related.

 

Last week, the truck wouldn't start. After driving it to the store, in the parking lot. Full battery power near as I could tell, but no click, nuthin. Then on like the 5th or 6th try it started right up like normal and has ever since. (starter or open circuit?)

 

Just now, I started it up and it was making a buzzing or whirring noise seemingly in the vicinity of the starter. I turned it off and the noise continued after it was off and now it won't start again.  Just like last week.

 

Lights, windows everything fine, but no response from the ignition and it makes that whirring/buzzing noise while it's not even running. I had to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Never did anything like this before.

 

This is a brand new one on me. I have no idea what this is. If anybody else does, you'll be my new hero.  195,000 miles on this truck btw ,which runs fine overall until these recent problems.
Thanks again.

Edited by Tiribulus
Posted

I went back out there just now and reconnected the battery terminal and as soon as the circuit is closed, the electrical motor whine/buzz sound started up until until I broke the circuit again.

Posted

Hi

first off you're in the wrong forum....there is one for older trucks that people can help better

the issues you have are different than newer trucks. At that vintage and age, corrosion is big issue.

But, i'm an auto , truck and construction tech. A temp gauge that goes up and down fast may be a false message.

You need a laser temp gun. if the truck is really overheating, you will see over 220 degrees. Many times, a bad wire affects the temp gauge. Usually at plugs or harness connections. If you are overheating, there is gurgling in rad, overflow fills up, snapping noises. You need to know with a simple laser  heat gun (good to check kids temp, food too!)

you may have a shorted solenoid on starter. You must unhook cable at starter to test. You may have bad battery, bad connections at ground. At this point, there are electrical issues that you need a mechanic to test. Good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New to this forum.  Also looking to tune a 6L80 and trying to work out all the issues in my transmission swap.  I have a 6.2 diesel (1983) and have removed the TH-400 and about to put in a 6L80 with a TCM-2600 interface and don't have a clue what I doing after that.  Did you (Leatherneck/RAV3) get your slip resolved? I too hate to spend that kind of money on a tuner that hopefully I will not need too many times although from what steelerdude15 added about the HP Tuner being great for diagnostics would be a plus.  I am also from WNC but below you in Columbus.  Any helo would be greatly appreciated.  
    • Sounds like a smart reasonable person with common sense. Bill O’Riley never said he was just a journalist, by the way.
    • It's like saying Bill O'Reilly is "just" a journalist.         Lauren Fix, widely known as "The Car Coach," is a prominent automotive journalist, television personality, and self-identified conservative. She is a frequent contributor to right-leaning networks and platforms, offering commentary that intersects the automotive industry, consumer economics, and conservative political perspectives. [1, 2, 3] Media and Commentary Network Contributions: Fix serves as the National Automotive Correspondent for Newsmax and is a frequent guest on Fox News and Fox Business. Video Platforms: She has contributed to PragerU, where she has hosted videos critiquing government mandates on vehicles. [1, 2, 3] Core Positions Anti-EV Mandates & Fuel Policies: Fix regularly critiques government subsidies and mandates for electric vehicles (EVs), framing them as impractical and burdensome to the average consumer. She advocates for consumer choice and supports traditional internal combustion engine vehicles. [1, 2, 3] Economic Analysis: Her commentary often emphasizes the impacts of fuel prices, inflation, and federal regulations on drivers. [1, 2, 3] Political Alignment: On her public channels, she actively supports deregulation, "drill baby drill" energy policies, and the removal of government restrictions on auto sales and manufacturing. [1, 2] For analysis from Lauren Fix on how consumer automotive choices can align with political leanings:
    • Wouldn't swapping out the original AFM/DFM parts for a complete Delete Kit be the best route to go if one could afford to go that route?
    • It comes with directions but yes, generally, it's the same.  Also, get you the dipstick stuff to install dipstick so you have one.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...