Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

my 2011 3500hd dually won't move. when I put it into gear there is a line under the selected gear and it flashes and I have no gears.  if I unhook the battery and hook back up it will drive for a while then it does the same thing again. any ideas?

 

Posted (edited)

Scan for codes.  Its likely a bad TCM and they've been on backorder almost a year now.  Used ones are selling for $2000-4000 on eBay, its that bad right now.

 

Best option is to try and order one at a dealer.  If its the TCM, bring your VIN down and have them order one and put a SPAC case on it.  "Some" orders from last August just got filled, so hopefully this won't last too much longer.  GM is expecting July but they also said January, March and May before moving it to July.  

Edited by newdude
Posted

While on the topic of TCM's. Can someone confirm or deny or provide insight into using OEM and Non OEM Serpentine belts. I was informed by multiple shops that using a non OEM belt can generate static electricity. Given the proximity of the TCM to the belt, this static electricity can cause damage to the TCM.

By using the OEM belt, no static charges will be generated.

Posted
1 hour ago, newdude said:

Scan for codes.  Its likely a bad TCM and they've been on backorder almost a year now.  Used ones are selling for $2000-4000 on eBay, its that bad right now.

 

Best option is to try and order one at a dealer.  If its the TCM, bring your VIN down and have them order one and put a SPAC case on it.  "Some" orders from last August just got filled, so hopefully this won't last too much longer.  GM is expecting July but they also said January, March and May before moving it to July.  

We did check for codes and there wasn’t any. If it is that would it bring up a code?

Posted
18 minutes ago, mountain maniac said:

We did check for codes and there wasn’t any. If it is that would it bring up a code?

 

 

What did you check it with?  Just a basic code reader?  If so, they can't always read everything.  It could have a U code or C code that you can't see that a higher end reader or full scan tool can read.  U0101 is a popular code for a bad TCM on these.  

  • Like 1
Posted

TCM is shot.  Mine would do the same thing...it's also temperature dependent; tried to move it one day when it was warm and it wouldn't do anything...tried again a few days later when it was about 20° cooler and was able to drive it around the yard. 

 

My truck's been sitting in the yard collecting leaves, pollen, and bird ****** since November.  If you're willing to spend upwards of $7500, you can find them on Ebay and several online performance stores.  I sent mine off to Xemodex a couple weeks back and just got it back today (the 2 retainers holding it to the fan shroud broke pulling them out so I've got to find a couple of new ones tomorrow).  They repair them for $1200 and reflash to your VIN...found them recommended on durmaxforum by several people.  Hated to spend the $$$ on a repair, but it comes with a lifetime warranty.  Spoke with 2 GM dealers here in town and they said they haven't heard anything about when new ones would be available.

Posted
12 hours ago, dsr611 said:

TCM is shot.  Mine would do the same thing...it's also temperature dependent; tried to move it one day when it was warm and it wouldn't do anything...tried again a few days later when it was about 20° cooler and was able to drive it around the yard. 

 

My truck's been sitting in the yard collecting leaves, pollen, and bird ****** since November.  If you're willing to spend upwards of $7500, you can find them on Ebay and several online performance stores.  I sent mine off to Xemodex a couple weeks back and just got it back today (the 2 retainers holding it to the fan shroud broke pulling them out so I've got to find a couple of new ones tomorrow).  They repair them for $1200 and reflash to your VIN...found them recommended on durmaxforum by several people.  Hated to spend the $$$ on a repair, but it comes with a lifetime warranty.  Spoke with 2 GM dealers here in town and they said they haven't heard anything about when new ones would be available.

thanks I will check into that

Posted
23 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

What did you check it with?  Just a basic code reader?  If so, they can't always read everything.  It could have a U code or C code that you can't see that a higher end reader or full scan tool can read.  U0101 is a popular code for a bad TCM on these.  

 

Just now, mountain maniac said:

thanks I will check into that

I took it to a garage so not sure which one they have but thanks

Posted

Got my TCM back from Xemodex over the weekend and put it back in yesterday. Have only driven about 25 miles on it so far, but it is shifting as smooth as it ever has. Got out and cleaned all the caked up pollen and bird crap (from sitting for the past 5+months) off of it today. Will be driving it back and forth to work the rest of the week to see how it's going to act, but if it is anything like the 25 or so miles I've put on it yesterday and today, I will recommend Xemodex to anyone that is needing their TCM repaired.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
    • This can be done.  It is not cheap and requires an instrument cluster swap with custom programming, new steering wheel with the controls on it, and a special jumper harness.   The cluster upgrade - 12.3” Digital Cluster Upgrade – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The wheel upgrade - Steering Wheel Upgrade Kit – 2022.5–2026 Silverado / Sierra (T1 Refresh Pickup) - WAMS   The column harness upgrade - 2019 - 2026 Silverado / Sierra: Steering Wheel LIN Bus Harness - Harness Dr. - DIY Done Right     The problem with doing all of this?  You pretty much can't have any programming done to your truck that involves the cluster ever again.  The dealer won't be able to program the cluster as GM's system will only pull data for the cluster the truck came with.  So it would be advised also to turn off over the air updates.   TLDR;  Should have bought an LT double cab?  You'd have a power seat, the wheel controls, the cluster, all things that you've been seeking in your various posts so far about your new WT regular cab.  
    • I was unaware of that, thanks for updating me.
    • Yes.  The 2.7 Turbomax has Active Fuel Management.  It is NOT the same as the V8s.  Totally different system.     Here is an article from GM when the 2.7 came out explaining the cylinder deactivation and the valve lift system.  Starts at the section called "SCS Valvetrain":   New Turbocharged 2.7L 4-Cylinder Engine Powers Full-Size Trucks – TechLink         This is an internet myth going around.  It was alleged that some 5.3s had this mystical 8th digit of the VIN as an "E" which somehow meant it had a new one year only 5.3 that didn't have DFM.  The writer of said article and the person that made the claim conveniently can't count because they posted the VIN.  The 8th digit was a "D" which meant its still the 5.3 with DFM.  The 9th digit of the VIN was an "E" and the 9th digit isn't the engine code.  At all.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...