Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Interesting.

My 21 has 12 v power ports. (and the 120V shared 400W outlets)

2023 owners manual shows 12v power ports.

 

I have a '23 being shipped.  I'm curious to see if it has 12v port(s).

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, redwngr said:

Interesting.

My 21 has 12 v power ports. (and the 120V shared 400W outlets)

2023 owners manual shows 12v power ports.

 

I have a '23 being shipped.  I'm curious to see if it has 12v port(s).

No standard round 12v ports in my '23 LTZ Z71 crew. Just USB in dash and console. 120v in console and bed. Has technology package. Running my V1 off the Savvy adapter in the OBD port.

Edited by repairman54
Posted (edited)

Decided to see if there was any info about this in the fleet order guide.

 

It shows the 12V outlet is only installed/available on low trims.

 

On sierra

image.thumb.png.60f0c79bb09c80087fd0ca9f4c7bbc72.png

 

First column is the 'pro' trim.

 

On Silverado it comes on the WT, Custom and Custom Trailboss

image.thumb.png.191d38d3218c9fbf93b5b3d2b8a244aa.png

 

 

 

So it would be in the Owners Manuals -- and not be on the high trim trucks mentioned in other posts. 

Perhaps also explains the OM section discussing fuse location changes -- and the lack of available connection on higher trims that will not have the 12v pot.

 

 

Guess I'm won't be running the 12v cooler with the new truck when it arrives  🙁

Edited by redwngr
Posted
On 5/29/2023 at 12:07 PM, redwngr said:

Decided to see if there was any info about this in the fleet order guide.

 

It shows the 12V outlet is only installed/available on low trims.

 

On sierra

image.thumb.png.60f0c79bb09c80087fd0ca9f4c7bbc72.png

 

First column is the 'pro' trim.

 

On Silverado it comes on the WT, Custom and Custom Trailboss

image.thumb.png.191d38d3218c9fbf93b5b3d2b8a244aa.png

 

 

 

So it would be in the Owners Manuals -- and not be on the high trim trucks mentioned in other posts. 

Perhaps also explains the OM section discussing fuse location changes -- and the lack of available connection on higher trims that will not have the 12v pot.

 

 

Guess I'm won't be running the 12v cooler with the new truck when it arrives  🙁

 

Yes, I was pretty shocked on my ride home and realized I had no 12v port. Bizarre.  At least there is a 120v outlet that perhaps can be used for the cooler?

 

 

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, MrMagloo said:

 

Yes, I was pretty shocked on my ride home and realized I had no 12v port. Bizarre.  At least there is a 120v outlet that perhaps can be used for the cooler?

 

 

He could, if'n his cooler only pulls a tad over 3 amps. That 120v receptacle is about as worthless as t!ts on a boar.

Edited by gemarsh
Anti-spelling
  • 1 month later...
Posted

I assume nobody has found a constant power source on from the passenger side box?

 

I would like to install some extra footwear lighting on my dad's 2023 LT silverado. Using the X1 BCM connector's pin #1 12v as a trigger for the relay, and power the lights via the F28. Avoiding running a wire from the battery.

 

I put my meter lead down the empty fuse hole to the circuit board, while the truck was off, and was able to see 18v on the meter.

 

The F28 socket on the circuit board DOES get power constantly.... but the prong to plug something in to it is not present.

Posted

Trim down a 1/4'' male spade terminal to fit the hot side in the box and an inline fuse to protect the circuit at the box.

Posted (edited)

It would need to be soldered to the board. Not feeling that too much. I might have tried it if it were my truck.

Edited by jashaw
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

This sucks, I can't get my 2023 silverado to charge my phone when the truck is off....now I wish I kept my 2022....no way I can tell to make the 2023 charge when it's off...damn gm...always gotta screw ****** up.

Posted
19 hours ago, Jay dog said:

This sucks, I can't get my 2023 silverado to charge my phone when the truck is off....now I wish I kept my 2022....no way I can tell to make the 2023 charge when it's off...damn gm...always gotta screw ****** up.

 

I ended up mounting an auxiliary 5v port with full time power.  Works great.  But yes, it's extremely frustrating they took away the 12v outlet, and the ability to select full time power with the F27/28 fuse.  Dumb move.

  • 6 months later...
Posted

Looking at this post(kinda old). I'm in the same boat. I want power full time to an USB port or something. Every other Chevy I've owned has had that. I have a 23 custom refresh. And they certainly got rid of that extra prong on f28. This suck cause you could have fulltime power to your socket and you could tap into that extra prong with a spade connector to power add on accessories with switched power. It was perfect cause it was set up for 50 amps. Also, my 23 does have a 12v cig lighter jack.

  • 4 months later...
Posted (edited)

Has anyone tried jumping the circuit on the K2 relay?  ie putting a jumper wire across the normally open circuit .

Edited by Mayo
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I tried jumping K2 port 30-87. With the key off I had power to fuse 27, but no power to usb outlet. 

I am thinking it is going to be a software fix.

20240716_104609.jpg

20240716_111317.jpg

Posted

The F27 / F28 thing is so you have a choice -- RAP or continuous

 

If you want the power to supplied as RAP use the default -- F27

If you want to switch it to continuous power -- pull the block and put it back so it uses F28. 

 

F27 and F28 power the same places, so if F28 is powered, the RAP function cannot shut those locations off.

 

 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 7/16/2024 at 7:34 PM, redwngr said:

The F27 / F28 thing is so you have a choice -- RAP or continuous

 

If you want the power to supplied as RAP use the default -- F27

If you want to switch it to continuous power -- pull the block and put it back so it uses F28. 

 

F27 and F28 power the same places, so if F28 is powered, the RAP function cannot shut those locations off.

 

 

Im having the same issue.

Why cant I just add a prong with constant power to where it's missing on my 2023? Shouldn't doing that send constant power to all USBs all the time?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,647 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...