Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Got a 2017 GMC sierra AT3 with the Rancho Shocks. iam do to replace these and was looking into the Bilsteins 5100 adjustable. i basically want to raise the front to level it off. what is a good setting for these shocks to level the truck off. will be changing out front and rears. amy input would be appeciated.

Posted

Max height will raise the front. It will not be a complete level like the 2" or more variants. You will still have a rake. Just not as much.

  • Like 1
Posted
47 minutes ago, benelli said:

Thanks. Should the back be left stock height on the bilsteins just raise the fronts?

That's a personal choice. Do you still want rake or the truck to sit level front to rear? In my case, I just wanted front raised and did nothing to rear.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just to add, I didn't want rear raised as I tow a toy hauler occasionally so I didn't want to deal with any additional height in rear. I went with the Bilstein 4600 rear shocks but I also installed Airlift air bags in rear to help with the sag when towing.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, benelli said:

Thanks. Should the back be left stock height on the bilsteins just raise the fronts?

The rear shocks are not adjustable.  

  • Like 2
Posted
On 2/1/2024 at 11:07 AM, mikeyk101 said:

That's a personal choice. Do you still want rake or the truck to sit level front to rear? In my case, I just wanted front raised and did nothing to rear.

how much did you raise the front shocks to get resonable level? iam looking to just raise the front and make it look level abit awell as replacing the rancho shock

Posted
7 hours ago, benelli said:

how much did you raise the front shocks to get resonable level? iam looking to just raise the front and make it look level abit awell as replacing the rancho shock

 

I didn't go with the Bilsteins because I was able to get a set of Rancho Quicklifts new for about $240 total cost. The Quicklifts advertise as being a 2" lift and are complete strut assemblies unlike the Bilsteins where you still have to swap the strut springs. I had the Rough Country spacers that I had installed previously which gave me a 2" lift/level. After ditching those gawd awful RC spacers and installing the Quicklifts, the front fenders were still at about same height from ground to bottom of center of wheel well. I don't recall exactly what measurement is right now but I am able to run 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks on factory rims and have no sign of rubbing. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 2/1/2024 at 11:11 AM, Snowcamo said:

The rear shocks are not adjustable.  

Yeah, I think I misunderstood what was being asked...

Posted
4 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

Yeah, I think I misunderstood what was being asked...

All good. The way it was worded kinda left it open to different answers. 

 

Here is mine bed loaded. I don't remember how much weight,  but I know it will squat with a decent load in the bed. I'll have to get a new pic without the bed loaded.

Screenshot_20240202_200851_Photos.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
11 hours ago, mikeyk101 said:

 

I didn't go with the Bilsteins because I was able to get a set of Rancho Quicklifts new for about $240 total cost. The Quicklifts advertise as being a 2" lift and are complete strut assemblies unlike the Bilsteins where you still have to swap the strut springs. I had the Rough Country spacers that I had installed previously which gave me a 2" lift/level. After ditching those gawd awful RC spacers and installing the Quicklifts, the front fenders were still at about same height from ground to bottom of center of wheel well. I don't recall exactly what measurement is right now but I am able to run 275/60R20 Falken Wildpeaks on factory rims and have no sign of rubbing. 

Great I’ll have a look at those. Better option if they come with the spring. What height did you use on the quick lifts. Or are they already at max hight. I also have the same Faulken wild peak tires so I may go with that setup . Thsnks

Posted

They are just a set height. They have an adjustable damping knob on lower part to set damping between 1-9. IIRC, the factory setting on these is 5. For towing or heavy loads (firmer), it suggested to bump it up to between 7-9. For softer settings, 4-below. I believe I am using 6 but would have to check. It's not a bad idea if you plan to adjust regularly to move the knob back and forth every so often. Also I had read that some have had corrosion inside of that knob from water intrusion so I found some recommending to remove knob and plate and fill it with grease and reinstall plate and knob. I did this before originally installing. I turned it all the way down to 1 IIRC before removing the plate and knob. Very easy to do.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...