Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 2019 1500 RST, Crew cab/short bed. Was driving one evening, and stalled, and could not start back up. Engine turns over for about 20-30 seconds, doesn't start. It sat overnight, and then started working, and worked fine for a couple weeks, then it happened again. The codes I get are P1029 and P129F, which seemed to indicate the Fuel Pump Control Module was the issue. After the first incident I ordered one, so after it happened to me the 2nd time, I installed it. However it still didn't work. So now I'm wondering two things:

 

1) Does the Fuel Pump Control Module just need to be programmed to work for my vehicle? I'm reading conflicting things about this part and whether it needs programming or not.

OR

2) Is it likely the actual fuel pump that needs to be replaced? Banging the gas tanking w/ a hammer while trying to start didn't seem to work either time I was stalled. I know that doesn't always work, but my truck isn't that old w/ only 35k miles. Pretty lousy if it failed.

 

Finally-- I have never dealt with any kind of powertrain warranty service. I believe I am still under warranty until next year? Would the fuel system be considered part of the powertrain and likely covered? If that's the case, I'm wondering if I should just tow it to the dealer and get it checked out.

 

Has anyone dealt with this issue?

Posted

can your scanner read fuel pressure, that will tell you quick if the pump is working. the control module is plug and play unless you have a 2019 LD. you are over 3 years, so i doubt there will be warranty on it

Posted

Thanks. Called the dealer today, the module doesn't need to be programmed, and confirmed out of warranty. I guess I'm replacing a fuel pump!

 

  • 10 months later...
Posted
17 minutes ago, KevinMCooper said:

Did the fuel pump fix your issue? I'm having the same problem with my 2019 Sierra. Replaced module and fuel pump. Still having same problem.

 

 

The module requires setup.  There is no programming per say, but there is a setup procedure:

 

  1. Ignition » On / Vehicle » In Service Mode — For 2 min
  2. Ignition/Vehicle » Off — For 2 min
  3. Ignition » On / Vehicle » In Service Mode
  4. Perform the following action: Clear the DTCs.
  5. Start Engine
  6. Verify DTC P1005 is not set
    • If the DTC sets
    1. Perform the following action: Clear the DTCs.
    2. Ignition/Vehicle » Off — For 2 min
    3. Start Engine
    4. Verify the DTC does not set.
      • If the DTC sets » Repeat the procedure starting at step 1
      • If the DTC is not set » Configuration — Complete
    • If the DTC is not set
  7. Configuration — Complete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...