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Posted

 

The truck was leveled with 5100s over a 100K miles ago, and it’s time to replace them. I figured I would try something different and purchased the Eibach adjustable coilovers. I’ve been told by Shock Surplus as long the lift isn’t much higher than level, there will be no issues with the factory control arms and ball joints. So this weekend, I was going to install them, but I couldn’t separate the upper control arm from the steering knuckle without damaging the ball joint boot. I decided to put the tires back on and keep going on the 5100s for now. The ball joints are still tight, and the boots are in good shape.

 

- Looking for advise on separating the upper control arms without damaging the boot. I tired the usual hitting the knuckle with a hammer and the separator I have didn't fit. I wasn't whaling on the knuckle with hammer, but they weren't little taps either.  

- Has anyone used the replacement ball joint boots on Amazon? If so, which ones and have they held up?

- Would it be smart to replace the upper control arms? If so any recommendations?

I’m hoping someone with Eibach’s can chime in, but either way, I know there is a lot smart people here that will have good advise. 

I appreciate your advise. 

2017, 4WD, Stamped Steel Control Arms and running on the factory 20” rims.

Posted (edited)

Jack the truck up, tire off, loosen the bj nut to the last few threads and smack the spindle with a mallet or hammer right at the bj. It will separate. 

 

The lower is the same, but set the truck on jack stands and put a jack under the lower control arm and jack up the lower to aid in separation.

 

Little more umph then this guy.

 

https://youtu.be/Mm-3m2fY1Tw?si=pMpZK0-koWTrJd1F

 

Lastly having rebult my front end twice now, I'd highly suggest replacing the uppers. Given you have the ability to go more then 2". I'd suggest connito or a control arm that states it corrects angles of lifted suspensions 

Edited by Snowcamo
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I recently installed kryptonite upper control arms and had issues getting the balljoints separated.  My truck is lifted and all of the ball joint separators were too small for my oversized knuckles.  I ended up ordering this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CBPN18MG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title and it worked effortlessly.  This could have saved me a ton of time if i had it sooner.  

Edited by vhreso
Posted (edited)

I appreciate the feedback. I'm on the fence with either the Krytonite or the Cognito UCAs. I've read reviews stating people had to change rims and/or add spacers to eliminate the tires from rubbing, and others said there were no rubbing issues. 

 

Snowcamo, out of curiosity why did you have to rebuild your front end twice? 

 

Vhreso, that would be great for the lower ball joint. Unless I'm looking at this wrong, I don't think that would work due to the clearance between the drive axel and the ballpoint shank. 

Edited by UrbanRage
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Hey, so since I'm being honest. When I assembled my bilstein 5100 struts I did not buy the top plate, because of recommendations here. Welll one top plate failed and I kept putting it off. The truck drove the same all the while. 

 

That shredded the upper control arm bushing. Thus the second replacement.  

 

That said anyone lurking...

 

I have new kyb top plate and top spring isolator. Anyone wants them let me know. Pay shipping and they are yours. Or pickup in the DFW area.

 

New suspension is rancho quick lift adjustable struts and all else is moog.

Edited by Snowcamo
  • Like 2

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