2017 L83 6L80e Texas Speed Swap AFM Delete?

Hexa Fox · January 19

Hey guys,

So right now I am only in the research phase and not sure I want to tackle this yet. The truck only has 35,000 miles on it so I figure I have time. I was hoping some other people on hear that have done this swap could provide feedback. In the future, I think I am going to plan to opt to leave the engine in for this install. The linked video kind of gave me a little inspiration because he pretty much goes from start to finish in less than two hours. I fully expect to set aside several days to a week being a first timer though.

1) I called Texas Speed and the rep I talked to said that if I don't plan on upgrading at least the torque converter that I should go with a stage 1 cam over the stage 2 cam. I remember reading that it was okay to go with a stage 2 cam. I don't think I am too worried about it. I would like to think if the upgrade/delete was successful and I liked the build I would rebuilt the transmission with a better torque converter or just swap the transmission all together.

2) Right now my truck seems to average around 16 MPG daily driving and I notice a little less when I am towing or hauling something. I was hoping some of you guys here could tell me what you are getting with your swaps? Like after I have it tuned for a delete and a single stage cam am I going to go to single digits?

3) Just your guys general thoughts would be great. Your regrets, did you feel in over your head at any point, how does the truck run etc?

I have worked on vehicles my entire life but I think it is safe to say that this will be the most involved thing I have ever done. I am a little fearful because of the horror stories on YouTube of people installing parts wrong or I can only guess the issues is they screwed up the timing.

CamGTP · January 19

What are the specs on those camshafts you are talking about?

Generally on all the GEN 3 and GEN 4 V8 trucks with lower compression engines and stuff like that, if you stayed with a 212/218 size camshaft, you'd be able to keep the stock stall converter. The 6L80e has a weak converter that will shred itself over time. Being that you only have 35,000 miles you can tune the transmission to save the converter for a long while if you decided to keep it.

I don't have a camashft in my truck but in all the ones I've helped people tune or seen tuned, mileage should be close to what you are getting now if you don't change your driving style. Engine generation doesn't really matter here, smaller more tame camshaft retain good driving behavior and don't burn a lot of extra fuel if the tune is good. That is the biggest thing, whoever does the tuning must known what they are doing with these new trucks.

I highly suggest you have all the stuff deleted out of the tune prior to do any sort of work. It doesn't need a full tune but it needs a bunch a crap turned off before hand otherwise you will have permanent codes stored forever and plus it won't start if the factory DoD stuff is gone and it doesn't know that yet.

Hexa Fox · January 20

When I called Texas Speed he sent me links that automatically added the parts he was recommending to the cart. I kept those links but apparently they expired. I think my 2017 is a GEN 5 truck, isn't it?

Also I cannot remember if I posted it here or not but I am already having trouble with the transmission. As soon as it started slipping I found out about the thermal bypass and swapped it out within a week. I need to change the oil in the truck soon but it is snowing here right now. Going to try to change the trans fluid and filter out when I do the oil change. I have done a 6L80e before so I know it can be involved.

Sorry that I came unprepared for this Cam, but I am not really certain what I want other than to delete the AFM. I thought since I this is going to be involved I might as well get a little more power and a cool sounding truck while I'm at it baby. This is a link to what I believe is available for my truck. I think the first stage 2 cam is listed as a 218/230?

https://www.texas-speed.com/c-3252-camshafts_gmc-sierra1500-2017.aspx

CamGTP · January 20

Judging by the specs of even the L83 stage 1 camshaft, those are some nice power gains for the size camshaft it is. The GEN 5 engines do allow for a bigger camshaft just because of the engine design and don't have to worry to much about the converter.

The stage 2 camshaft will surely want a converter upgrade, probably a 2600-2800rpm stall.

Hexa Fox · January 20

13 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

Judging by the specs of even the L83 stage 1 camshaft, those are some nice power gains for the size camshaft it is. The GEN 5 engines do allow for a bigger camshaft just because of the engine design and don't have to worry to much about the converter.

The stage 2 camshaft will surely want a converter upgrade, probably a 2600-2800rpm stall.

Thanks, I have thought about pulling the entire engine then I would have access to the torque converter. However, that sounds like an entire job alone and I have no garage. I have time to decide. Also I appreciate you mentioning the tune. I have heard of their being problems with tunes and I already looked into having the truck towed somewhere after completion but unfortunately I was not able to locate anywhere nearby. I didn't know doing something beforehand was even an option.

SeekAndDestroy · January 20

I have a chunky cam in my 6.2L. It’s easier to do the cam with the engine out of the truck. Then you have access to the converter as well. Sounds like you need to change it any way.

The cam will burn more fuel. More power = more fuel. I gained 25% more power and it burns 25% more fuel in city driving. On the highway it’s better, but still uses more than stock. I get 18L/100km city and 11L/100km highway. 13 mpg city/ 21 mpg highway.

It is fun and sounds mean. Worth it

rlcole321 · January 24

I did the DOD delete on my 2018 L83, BTR stage 2 cam with long tube headers. Looking at your gas milage, I guess it is a 4WD, mine is a 2WD (shortbed), so doing mine "in the truck" was fairly easy (even in my single car garage and on jack stands) because you will need to pull the oil pan to do it right. So pulling the front drive to get oil pan off might be a little harder. I kept my stock converter, not really having any issue with that. But I suggest you also invest in a HPTuner system and learn how to use it (I did). Also there's a lot of parts not reusable once you pull it apart and make sure you research how to R+R the oil pump correctly to get it pack in place. It really helped the performance and got great low end torque and good HP increase!, Good luck!

Jay Ratliff · February 7

I'm doing all of the same research for my '18 L83 right now, for different reasons. It's why I clicked on the thread.

My truck has a few more miles than yours, 275k in fact. Still on the OG engine with DOD/AFM and all. I love Valvoline. I have fought the transmission issue these trucks are plagued with, twice now. I'll just say this on that subject.....Get that converter out of there. Keeping the temp down should help, and even some good tuning, but eventually that converter will fail and take the transmission out. My first one went at 97k (in extended warranty, cost me $1,100 for a crate unit instead of LKQ), second one at 187k (in crate unit's warranty, tsb done at this time with the 145degree trans-stat). Within 1k miles on number 3 I deleted the stat and added an aux cooler with a fan on it under the truck. I rarely ever see my trans over 155 degrees anymore, usually runs around 130-140. I still want the oem converter out of it since it's getting up there where the others failed. But I digress.

On the dod delete, I'm on the fence between BTR and Texas Speed on where to source the kit. Each being within about $50 of one another and reputable companies. Given the mileage on mine I'll be doing an oil pump, at least, and going thru the whole thing if something in the bottom end looks terrible. I am going to take the engine out on mine for the work, I also want to change the converter so it just makes sense. But I can certainly see the advantage of doing a simple cam swap/delete job while its in the truck. Although it's so much easier to work on out of the truck.

So it's all preventive for me at this point too, it's just a race for me to get it done before inevitable happens.

I'll be going back with an OEM grind cam myself. I did look at the numbers on a few stage 1&2's and just didn't see enough torque gain in a usable rpm range to justify the added costs involved for my needs. If I wanted it to go faster, then yes, but that's what my Camaro is for. Honestly, for money spent I'd bet a simple rear gear swap would be more practical for my use. But she's been a good truck so far, transmission issues aside, so I'll be showing her some love pretty soon.

Hexa Fox · February 18

On 1/24/2025 at 9:58 AM, rlcole321 said:

I did the DOD delete on my 2018 L83, BTR stage 2 cam with long tube headers. Looking at your gas milage, I guess it is a 4WD, mine is a 2WD (shortbed), so doing mine "in the truck" was fairly easy (even in my single car garage and on jack stands) because you will need to pull the oil pan to do it right. So pulling the front drive to get oil pan off might be a little harder. I kept my stock converter, not really having any issue with that. But I suggest you also invest in a HPTuner system and learn how to use it (I did). Also there's a lot of parts not reusable once you pull it apart and make sure you research how to R+R the oil pump correctly to get it pack in place. It really helped the performance and got great low end torque and good HP increase!, Good luck!

Thanks for the reply. Firstly, yes mine is 4WD. Could you tell me what the specifications of your BTR stage 2 cam are?

Also could you tell me what transmission you have? Don't some of the L83's come with the 8L90 or one of the other transmissions? I could be mistaken.

My 6L80 is already starting to slip. Not sure if it is the right thought process but thought about going through with the upgrade and if I am happy with it I will just have the transmission rebuilt or replaced completely if it does fail. I am planning to change the fluid and filter as soon as possible but the weather out here has been absolute crap. I already replaced the thermal bypass valve but it was already slipping some.

Hexa Fox · February 18

On 2/7/2025 at 6:47 PM, Jay Ratliff said:

I'm doing all of the same research for my '18 L83 right now, for different reasons. It's why I clicked on the thread.

My truck has a few more miles than yours, 275k in fact. Still on the OG engine with DOD/AFM and all. I love Valvoline. I have fought the transmission issue these trucks are plagued with, twice now. I'll just say this on that subject.....Get that converter out of there. Keeping the temp down should help, and even some good tuning, but eventually that converter will fail and take the transmission out. My first one went at 97k (in extended warranty, cost me $1,100 for a crate unit instead of LKQ), second one at 187k (in crate unit's warranty, tsb done at this time with the 145degree trans-stat). Within 1k miles on number 3 I deleted the stat and added an aux cooler with a fan on it under the truck. I rarely ever see my trans over 155 degrees anymore, usually runs around 130-140. I still want the oem converter out of it since it's getting up there where the others failed. But I digress.

On the dod delete, I'm on the fence between BTR and Texas Speed on where to source the kit. Each being within about $50 of one another and reputable companies. Given the mileage on mine I'll be doing an oil pump, at least, and going thru the whole thing if something in the bottom end looks terrible. I am going to take the engine out on mine for the work, I also want to change the converter so it just makes sense. But I can certainly see the advantage of doing a simple cam swap/delete job while its in the truck. Although it's so much easier to work on out of the truck.

So it's all preventive for me at this point too, it's just a race for me to get it done before inevitable happens.

I'll be going back with an OEM grind cam myself. I did look at the numbers on a few stage 1&2's and just didn't see enough torque gain in a usable rpm range to justify the added costs involved for my needs. If I wanted it to go faster, then yes, but that's what my Camaro is for. Honestly, for money spent I'd bet a simple rear gear swap would be more practical for my use. But she's been a good truck so far, transmission issues aside, so I'll be showing her some love pretty soon.

Yeah I have been debating just selling mine just because of the fact that I could still get good value for it. It pains me to even think about because other than worrying about these issues I really do like the truck. When I use it I definitely use it. Been using the 4WD some this year, splitting and hauling wood for my stove, just started pulling a small trailer for mowing some grass on the side. It does everything that I ask of it and still looks sexy at the end of the day. Mine is red like yours but I have yet to get black rims on this one.

I also replaced the thermal bypass valve last year after the transmission started slipping. I was torn between the kit you could buy online and just buying the "updated" one from GM but that is what I ended up going with. I think it has already helped it.

On the subject of oil I just changed mine out with the full synthetic Kirkland OW-20. Maybe I should not have waited so long, it was just over a year old but I think my dash said the oil life was at 30-40%. It was definitely pretty dark considering I do not put that many miles on it. My Elite Engineering catch can was also completely full too. Nice to know it is doing a good job, might have to empty it a little more often now.

cemem · February 26

On 1/19/2025 at 10:51 PM, Hexa Fox said:

Hey guys,

So right now I am only in the research phase and not sure I want to tackle this yet. The truck only has 35,000 miles on it so I figure I have time. I was hoping some other people on hear that have done this swap could provide feedback. In the future, I think I am going to plan to opt to leave the engine in for this install. The linked video kind of gave me a little inspiration because he pretty much goes from start to finish in less than two hours. I fully expect to set aside several days to a week being a first timer though.

1) I called Texas Speed and the rep I talked to said that if I don't plan on upgrading at least the torque converter that I should go with a stage 1 cam over the stage 2 cam. I remember reading that it was okay to go with a stage 2 cam. I don't think I am too worried about it. I would like to think if the upgrade/delete was successful and I liked the build I would rebuilt the transmission with a better torque converter or just swap the transmission all together.

2) Right now my truck seems to average around 16 MPG daily driving and I notice a little less when I am towing or hauling something. I was hoping some of you guys here could tell me what you are getting with your swaps? Like after I have it tuned for a delete and a single stage cam am I going to go to single digits?

3) Just your guys general thoughts would be great. Your regrets, did you feel in over your head at any point, how does the truck run etc?

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I have worked on vehicles my entire life but I think it is safe to say that this will be the most involved thing I have ever done. I am a little fearful because of the horror stories on YouTube of people installing parts wrong or I can only guess the issues is they screwed up the timing.

I want to eliminate the weak link in the L76, namely the DOD lifters. Unfortunately, I cannot currently justify the cost of the kits from Livernois and VMS and don't want to switch cams at this point. I was wondering if anyone has used one of these kits on their GT. If I can get away with removing the intake and heads, while avoiding disassembling the heads and the front of the engine, I may go this route for now. Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated

CamGTP · February 26

You can't run normal lifters on the DoD camshaft for all cylinders. The lift and duration on those lobes is different and designed only for those DoD lifters. The camshaft must be swapped in you wish to run all standard lifters.