Jump to content

2020 Silverado Custom, lost my key still have the fob

jdanielm74
 Share

Recommended Posts

jdanielm74 New Member

jdanielm74

Posted
Posted

I only need a new key cut. I can provide all the information the dealership is asking for, but they say the truck has to be there to program the KEY? I have the transponder, just lost my key. Do I really have to get my truck towed to their service department to get the KEY to work?

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jdanielm74 said:

I only need a new key cut. I can provide all the information the dealership is asking for, but they say the truck has to be there to program the KEY? I have the transponder, just lost my key. Do I really have to get my truck towed to their service department to get the KEY to work?

 

 

Yes if you only had one physical key and you lost that one key.  And you NEED to get two new keys if you've lost all of them otherwise the theft light will be stuck on the dash and it won't exit programming mode sometimes.  

 

Key is transponder chipped.  The trucks have used a transponder key since 2007.  The only thing is programming one has changed starting 2017 and got even stricter on the newer stuff. 

 

Edited by newdude
el ess1 New Member

el ess1

Posted
Posted

Is it just the key part itself, like the "emergency key" part? If so, no reprogramming is necessary. However, I'm betting they're making you buy a new complete transponder/key fob and you have to program the transponder.

 

You can get just the emergency key part and then get it cut to your key code. Probably have to get that code from the dealer or have the dealer cut your emergency key. After you get the key part cut, take a picture of it, or if you have the cut code, put that in a safe place. Lots of places can make a key just from a good pic of the cuts.

 

For ~6 bucks:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/175622741583

  • 2 weeks later...
David Krueger Enthusiast

David Krueger

Posted
Posted

I had a qualified locksmith cut a key for my 21 GMC and program the remote. He charged me $100.00 They can come to your house. Make sure that the one that you call has the right equipment.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,244 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...