Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

My truck is making a humming/creaking noise when turning sharp right at low speeds. After looking at it with my mechanic he did find that I had a bad wheel bearing on the drivers side (badly rusted), so he replaced that. The noise is still there although not as bad. Truck is a 2020 with only 35,000 miles on it. He's checked the front brakes and everything is good there too. He's going to look again tomorrow but I'm curious if someone else has had a similar problem. 

 

I'm not impressed with this truck lately as it's just recently had the rear brakes replace and muffler because a part broke off inside and was rattling around. After I get this sorted out I'm going to be writing GM because to me all of this shouldn't be happening to a truck this new with this kinda mileage on it...

Posted

only 35k, do you do a lot of short trips and the truck sits alot, the rear brakes are on issue on these trucks. a lot of short trips doesn't dry the exhaust out and might be why the muffler failed. have your mechanic check the front diff, a lot came from the factory low on oil including mine. if it has the su4 front diff there is a tsb on the left shaft having a problem. i have 105 k miles on my 2020 truck

Posted

I have approximately 160K on my 2020 and I have 50% life left on the rear pads, but it sees primarily highway miles.  This is the first I have heard of rear pad issues, but I haven't kept up to date on these trucks over the last year or so.  

 

Differentials will usually hum under load, but not coasting.  If you hear a whine while accelerating or driving at highway speeds, but it goes away when you let off the gas, definitely check the front and rear diffs.  

 

If the noise lessened when you replaced the hub, check the other side as well and see if that's causing the remaining issues, especially if its occurring while turning.

 

Good luck.

Posted

Thanks for the input guys.. I was doing some testing on my truck last night and the noise wasn't there at first so I did about 6 or 7 really hard brakes, from 30-40mph and the sound came back very quickly... 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,271 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...