Lake Speed Jr. gives a great explanation on his last UOA test

[Black02Silverado]

This is a long video, but Lake does a great job explaining in detail and with facts on a video he did a while back comparing several brands of oils.  Not one brand is king and he explains why.  It's well worth the watch and answers many questions that are always asked on here.

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

[A cut and paste of my response to this video posted in a Mitsubishi Forum when asked about it]

 

[quote] Grumpy Bear always pays attention to Red Line Results. In fact you may recall I've been posting those results in my garage entry thread.

There indeed has been a change in chemistry. [at Red Line] It has indeed resulted in an increase in total wear metals. But nothing in the order of severity Oil Geek is reporting. To me, base on my results, it may be corrosive wear brought on by a substantially lower starting TBN without letting the consumer know thus impeding the consumers response to those changes.

That deposit test is.....worthless. Oil is dripped over a heated plate, the oil vaporizes and what is left is weighed. There are variations on this test, using a rod dipped i.e.

Ever watch your mother check a iron by licking her fingers and tapping the irons face? She doesn't burn herself because the contact time is short enough to prevent the spit from fully evaporating. Just sizzles. In a running motor even when ring land temps or under piston crown temps are higher than the oils flash point or even fire point the oil never gets to that temperature because it is constantly moving. Oil squirters are now used to cool piston domes from under based on this principle. The deposit test dips a heated rod into a limited volume of oil or drips it on to a heated plate. About one step under an autoclave ash test. Does your motor EVER see those conditions? Maybe. On a hot shutdown. So what is the cure? Let the motor idle for a few seconds before shutdown and it will cool several hundred degrees. Your valves will love it tool. Limit hot cold cycles. Long haul vehicles always last longer than short hoppers.

One of my biggest gripes about testing is the test relevance to the real world conditions. Test argue they have to do this to accelerate testing to a short enough period to get a result.

Anyway. Look, there is no perfect oil. Not because there can't be but because profit is always placed above performance and the consumers requirements while bowing to governmental regulation. All we can do it choose and then adapt to our choices.

I may very well find I can no longer live with these new changes and I repeat, NEW CHANGES. Kiddo's, they all do it. AMSOIL and Pennzoil, Mobil 1, Castrol are a shadow of what they once were.

You will always have CLE's pandering to governmental regulation ahead of wear. IMO, people over weight Internet "experts' because the cost of testing on their own in prohibitive. Problem is....you NEVER get all the information you need WHEN you need it. I am not happy with Red Line right now for this very reason but, I knew, and you did to if you've paid attention to my results, that this was happening. [close quote]

 

Now, having that out of the way and not yet completed my current inventories and adjustments in its (Red Line HP) use based on my UOA's my gut says Phillips has or is in the process of sinking the Red Line boat. I'm sure I can make it work I'm just not sure I can do it at a cost I'm willing to endure. 

 

It seems fortuitous that @Black02Silverado is making AMSOIL SS 0W40 available to members at a discount. Thank you Nick. 

[OnTheReel]

Red Line’s TBN retention was never great for me, which is fine because I didn’t buy it for extended drains. But if they are going to dial the initial TBN down too I’ll have move on because I doubt it would survive even 3k in my Jeep based on prior results. Think between HPL and Amsoil there are still plenty of fish in the sea, and at better prices to boot.

[Grumpy Bear]

4 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

Red Line’s TBN retention was never great for me, which is fine because I didn’t buy it for extended drains. But if they are going to dial the initial TBN down too I’ll have move on because I doubt it would survive even 3k in my Jeep based on prior results. Think between HPL and Amsoil there are still plenty of fish in the sea, and at better prices to boot.

 

Last two results in the Mitsubishi were identical and yet at two different OCI lengths. 5K and 3.4K IDENTICAL

3.66 TBN at 5K and 3.62 at 3.4K. Wear metals the same. I don't mean the same per thousand miles. I mean raw numbers were the same.  I only have three quarts of that lot left.