Jump to content

Cold AC

OUMike

Recommended Posts

OUMike Senior Enthusiast

OUMike

Posted
Posted

Well after months and months of no AC, its finally done. Although I do regret to inform that I wasn't able to take photographs of the process like I said I would, I did assist in the work that was done. I feel confidant I can answer most any questions about this job. My AC blows in the mid 40s now..burrr. :banghead: Only problem is my evaporate does in fact have a small leak..bummer. :lol: But I try to keep the AC running as easy as it can to prevent condensation into my cab. Its amazing too, because before when my AC worked (or I thought it did) I'd have to run it on high speed fan, max AC all day long in order to get it cool and keep it there. Now I start on high speed fan-max AC and within 5 minutes I'm turning it down. Guess it just goes to show how much a screwy compressor can effect your system.

 

If someone would like, I can take a few photographs of the finished product and maybe try to put together a how-to. Won't be as effective as if I'd done it during the installation, but I'd be willing to try. Thanks for everyone that helped me here on the board :D

SteveCZ Enthusiast

SteveCZ

Posted
Posted

Thank god mine is still cold.....

 

But out of curiosity, what did the new compressor run? A few Hundred? Plus the recharge of the gas, obviously..

 

Also, to keep my compressor running smooth, I've been thinking about going out and buying a can of the oil to keep it oiled up. Is this a good idea or should I just drive it?

OUMike Senior Enthusiast

OUMike

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The compressor was a rebuilt unit that ran me about $180 or so. The freon (R-134) ran about $6 a can, and the accumulator ran about $40. Labor was free, because the work was done by a close friend of ours. I spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $220 or so, tax and the whole nine yards.

 

That could be a good idea. Pull your compressor and accumulator and re-oil your system. If you do this, it'd be a good idea to put a vaccum on your system for a good hour. Then recharge it with about 2.5 cans of freon.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
The compressor was a rebuilt unit that ran me about $180 or so.  The freon (R-134) ran about $6 a can, and the accumulator ran about $40.  Labor was free, because the work was done by a close friend of ours.  I spend somewhere in the neighborhood of $220 or so, tax and the whole nine yards.

 

That could be a good idea.  Pull your compressor and accumulator and re-oil your system.  If you do this, it'd be a good idea to put a vaccum on your system for a good hour.  Then recharge it with about 2.5 cans of freon.

You should never open a R12 or 134 system and not vacum it out. With a new accumulatory/drier there is no need to pull it down for a hour to get moisture out. Just pull it down and hold it for 5 to 10 minutes to confirm that there is no leaks and then charge it up! (assuming that you added/adjusted then needed oil as well too for any component changes)

SteveCZ Enthusiast

SteveCZ

Posted
Posted

OK, I'm not quite following you guys here...

 

My A/C is ice cold still, but I'm just wondering if I can plug a can of the oil into my system's high side or low side (whichever it is, I can't think this early in the morning before coffee).

 

Let me know

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted

If it is functioning well and not been opened up to loose factory oil charge, there is no need to add to it at this time just for the sake of doing it.

OUMike Senior Enthusiast

OUMike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
My A/C is ice cold still, but I'm just wondering if I can plug a can of the oil into my system's high side or low side (whichever it is, I can't think this early in the morning before coffee).

Oil is added directly into the parts. You would have to remove the compressor in order to add oil.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
My A/C is ice cold still, but I'm just wondering if I can plug a can of the oil into my system's high side or low side (whichever it is, I can't think this early in the morning before coffee).

Oil is added directly into the parts. You would have to remove the compressor in order to add oil.

Not entirely true. It is possible to loose oil visably through a leak in system and have to add a ounce or two to it to top it off when recharged.

frdfandc Enthusiast

frdfandc

Posted
Posted

Oil is only added during a part replacement. If you have a leak somewhere, that part must be replaced. Or you will continue to waste money in adding oil and refridgerant. In the vehicle service manuals, they have a limit of oil that must be installed per component (lines are usually not included).

 

But when dealing with either R-12 or R-134a, the a/c system should be evacuated first with a machine, then the system needs to be vacuumed down from anywhere from 3-10 mins, depending on the size of the system. Also, just be cause the system is holding vacuum, doesn't mean there isn't a leak. The leak can appear when pressure is added (recharging the system). You should use a type of U/V dye/oil to verify there are no leaks. This takes the guess work out of replaceing components if there is a leak.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Oil is only added during a part replacement. If you have a leak somewhere, that part must be replaced. Or you will continue to waste money in adding oil and refridgerant. In the vehicle service manuals, they have a limit of oil that must be installed per component (lines are usually not included).

If you have a loose fitting or a bad hose you can lose oil over time with freon requiring a top off. How much of a waste it is depends on size of leak. I had a toyota that I converted to R134 that leaked not quite one can of R134 a year thru a crimped on hose fitting. It cost me less to add a 4 dollar can a year myself than to replace a 75 dollar hose. ( I was not please with conversion anyway but used it to experiment a bit, I will use MP 52 or R12a for any future conversions) You have to take it case by case as there is not 100% solid blanket rule here.

OUMike Senior Enthusiast

OUMike

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Also, just be cause the system is holding vacuum, doesn't mean there isn't a leak. The leak can appear when pressure is added (recharging the system). You should use a type of U/V dye/oil to verify there are no leaks. This takes the guess work out of replaceing components if there is a leak.

Good point. However if your holding a vacuum then your leak if definatly elsewhere. My truck held a strong vacuum, but I do have a slight leak inside my evaporator. Those electronic leak detectors are a great investment.

frdfandc Enthusiast

frdfandc

Posted
Posted

Snowman and others who still want to use r-12 in the future.

 

 

R-12 is getting very, very expensive. A single LB. of R-12 costs anywhere from $80-$100. If you try and buy a keg (30 lb bottle), they cost around $1500-1800. Also you must be a licensed in HVAC on refridgerant handling (evacuation and storage) for you to even THINK about buying.

 

Also, within the next 5 years, don't be surprised if R-12 is no longer being made.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,732
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    user087
    Newest Member
    user087
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 798 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Here's a starter kit:    CC Jensen, a Danish oil testing Concern gives us the following guidelines:   ISO 14/12/10 Very Clean Oil ISO 16/14/11 Clean Oil ISO 17/15/12 Lightly Contaminated ISO 19/17/14 New Oil ISO 22/20/17 Very Contaminated and not suitable for any service.   In addition CC Jensen gives a table showing how engine life is increased by cleaning up the oil. For example cleaning the oil from 19/17/14 to 13/11/8 will extend motor life by a factor of 6X.   But even cleaning it two “Life Extension Classes” will double motor life. So perhaps giving those classes would be useful:   21/19/16 20/18/15 19/17/14 18/16/13 17/15/12 16/14/11 15/13/10 14/12/9 13/11/8   *************************************   https://testoil.com/program-management/setting-iso-cleanliness-targets/   Third paragraph from the bottom will give a starting point.    Your next question should be, okay 10um at what Beta ratio and the answer is in the graph Beta 75.   Then the next question is what is your chosen filters profile? (Purolator PL series below) The red dot is Beta 75. This was the information I obtained from MANN a few years ago. So the best filters, Purolator One, AMSOIL EA, FRAM Ultra, Royal Purple, Bosch Premium should get a doubling engine life over filters like Purolator L, any service filter from any quick lube, WIX, NAPA, STP, Mobil 1, Purolator BOSS.    And as noted by CC Jensen a 2-5 micron @ Beta 200 bypass system has the capability of a six fold improvement. AMSOIL has such a system as does Donaldson.       Now having said all that testing is the touchstone. Test the oil NEW and test it with your chosen filter. Then test over milage. Do the work, get the result. But understand this in NOT absolute BECAUSE this is one factor in isolation.   Example:    A valve spring supplier can state that with cam X and a valve train of Y grams the valves will not float to 7K rpm. is that true if the builder choose a system 20 grams over limit? Common sense must be used and limits understood. 
    • bruceb58
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By bruceb58 · Posted

      This doesn't look like a GM truck. Not needed on a HD truck
    • CamGTP
      Gas Prices

      By CamGTP · Posted

      It varies a ton around me. Some places are still at $5.00 or higher and others are way down into the $4's.   Offroad diesel was $4.02 at the one station I passed today.
    • Hdwrguy
      2027 Chevrolet Silverado: Official Discussion

      By Hdwrguy · Posted

      So after reading the reveal from Chevrolet, I kept asking myself...why did the trim levels change?   Here are the official ones:   Work Truck (WT): The quintessential fleet truck, built with durable, easy-to-clean interiors for commercial or utilitarian use. Custom: A stylish, road-oriented trim that adds a more refined appearance, standard dual exhaust, and modern exterior styling. Custom Trail Boss: An entry-level off-roader featuring a 2-inch factory suspension lift and 34-inch mud-terrain tires on a budget. Silverado: Serving as the new base consumer truck (replacing the previous LT trim), it comes standard with the Z71 off-road package when equipped with 4WD. Trail Boss: Steps up the off-road hardware with the 2-inch lift, 34-inch tires, monotube shocks, an exclusive off-road hood, and more premium interior options. ZR2: The flagship off-roader. It boasts 35-inch mud-terrain tires, Multimatic DSSV dampers, front and rear electronic lockers, forged carbon-fiber interior accents, and an available hardcore Bison Edition (co-developed with AEV). High Country: The pinnacle of luxury. It replaces bright chrome with modern satin chrome, 22-inch wheels, premium leather, real wood interior trim, a panoramic sunroof, and an exclusive front-passenger touchscreen. As others have stated, why would you want a Silverado - 'Silverado' - wth?? LT needs to remain!!!   Also, there will no longer be a dedicated Z71 model.  All 4x4 trucks will have the Z71 package. Carplay is also something that cannot be removed.  Hopefully it will remain.     I am excited about the 5.7L V8 (350 C.I.D.)  Old school Chevy power.  My only concern is whatever version of AFM/DFM cylinder deactivation.  Too bad that isn't an option a buyer can choose to have or not.   I will definitely be stopping by my local dealership when these trucks start showing up.
    • richard wysong
      Gas Prices

      By richard wysong · Posted

      I haven't seen diesel for less than $5.30 anywhere in my area

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...