Jump to content

Need advice on used truck

UnderDawg

Recommended Posts

UnderDawg Enthusiast

UnderDawg

Posted
Posted

I'm looking at a 1994 Chevy Tahoe Silverado 2dr 4x4. It has 101,xxx miles, a/c power seat, door lock, windows, cruise control, tilt, privacey glass. They're asking $7,950 for it. But it has some issues I was wondering about. Whenever you activate the blinker, the speed indicator needle pulses about 3 miles an hour in either direction of you speed, unless you're stopped. Also, the higher the speed, the needle seems like it sticks for about 2 miles an hour. Also, when the A/C is on, the compressor or pulley whines and rattles. A/C also ins't very cold, I figure it might need to be recharged...??? The third brake light has moisture inside it. Exhaust is rusted/rusting. Other than these mentioned items, it's a pretty nice vehicle. Steering is tight, carpet is clean, brakes stop, radio sucks though, but that's an easy swap! What do you guys think might be wrong with the blinker/speedo problem?? Is this a good deal?

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted

SOunds like a bad ground on dask on speed pulsing and on the A/C, compressor is toast. A recharge will not fix the noise (though it might cool) it will only make it worse. It needs to be replaced and should be good for at least $500 bucks off price or more.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
So other than that, it sounds like a good deal? The speedo indicator just needs a better ground?

Or turn indicator or both of them. If it runs good otherwise and 4x4 engages and disengages properly you could have a go at it. A/C is only major problem that you mentioned.

bartlanz Enthusiast

bartlanz

Posted
Posted

I guess I don't see that as a great deal. I just did a KBB on it and it came back as $5185 in "Good" condition. Granted this price is for my area. The other thing is that you are going to regret getting a 2 door SUV. And not to poke a hole in your story, but in 94 it was still a Blazer (unless it is a realy early Tahoe). My only other thing is not more than 5 months ago, I bought my 98 LT 4x4 with 82k for only 10K and that was the dead of winter when 4wd is in demand.

01BlackZ71 Enthusiast

01BlackZ71

Posted
Posted

Our old 94 Surburban rattled the dash like crazy when our A/C compressor went out. It did, however, continue to work for the rest of the summer until we had to get it replaced. Not very cheap either. Like $750+.

 

(And a 94 is still a Blazer, with the ugly front gille and old interior)

 

Find a 95, or even better a 96. It seems like you'd be getting a much better ride for not much more cash.

 

 

 

bartlanz-

 

Man you stole that Tahoe from somebody! $10k is unbelievable.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted
(And a 94 is still a Blazer, with the ugly front gille and old interior)

I take exception to that :seeya:

 

:thumbs:

 

 

That price is a little high, but there is a premium on the two doors.

 

I have had offers of $6500 for my 92 within the last 6 months.

seadoons Enthusiast

seadoons

Posted
Posted
(And a 94 is still a Blazer, with the ugly front gille and old interior)

Yes, 1994 was still called a "Blazer," as they changed the name to "Tahoe" in 1995 with the interior change and addition of a driver's side airbag. The front end on the '94 models is the exact same as the front end on the 1995 - 2000 models though. 1994 was the first year for this front end (it is the same as bartlanz Tahoe).

01BlackZ71 Enthusiast

01BlackZ71

Posted
Posted
(And a 94 is still a Blazer, with the ugly front gille and old interior)

Yes, 1994 was still called a "Blazer," as they changed the name to "Tahoe" in 1995 with the interior change and addition of a driver's side airbag. The front end on the '94 models is the exact same as the front end on the 1995 - 2000 models though. 1994 was the first year for this front end (it is the same as bartlanz Tahoe).

You're right. I knew that...our 94 Suburban had the newer grille.

Pro Enthusiast

Pro

Posted
Posted

Hey Underdawg nice avatar. I remember making that like 2 or 3 years ago. I forgot where it went (computer crashed a year ago).

bartlanz Enthusiast

bartlanz

Posted
Posted

Ya I stole it off of a dealerships lot :lol: , the guy was a european sports care dealer ship. He thought there was something wrong with the breaks :thumbs: . There isn't they are Chevy truck breaks, not Porche 911 breaks. The thing runs GREAT, no funny noises from the engine, only thing it needed was new tires. :seeya: Well worth the 4000+ he took off of kbb value for me

99-2door Senior Enthusiast

99-2door

Posted
Posted
Ya I stole it off of a dealerships lot :lol: , the guy was a european sports care dealer ship. He thought there was something wrong with the breaks :thumbs: . There isn't they are Chevy truck breaks, not Porche 911 breaks. The thing runs GREAT, no funny noises from the engine, only thing it needed was new tires. :seeya: Well worth the 4000+ he took off of kbb value for me

I sold my 95 2-door 4x4 LT last year for $8,000. It was in pretty nice shape too.

The 4-door Tahoes 95-99 have taken a really big hit lately in value. Seems everybody that wants a 4-door wants a new body style. Its not unusual to see a 2-door bring a better price than a same year model 4-door around here.

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
Posted

I agree I think that price is a little high. Bartlanz, maybe it is a NH thing I bought my '98 Yukon SLT a couple of years ago now with 90K miles in perfect shape for $11,500. I agree, try and find a 95 and up with newer dash design if you can. I work for the state and we have several C/K trucks of all years and the 88-94's are great trucks, but the climate controls of the old dash are prone to problems. Also had wiper issues with those years. Drivetrains are very solid though.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By newdude · Posted

      Engine failure requires radiator replacement per GM if it contains an engine oil cooler.  They do NOT want them flushed.  Radiator replacement is also required for the 6.2 recall if the engine fails.   Here is the TSB the dealer is referring to - 22-NA-074 1..2    Its a slightly older version, but the current version of it covers all model years 2000-2026.  So if enough failure debris was present, it gets an oil cooler.  If that is part of the radiator, it gets a radiator.  Also, same for oil cooler lines.  Those get replaced.     Now something like a 2.7 Turbo which uses an oil to water heat exchanger for the oil cooler, the radiator would be left alone but the oil cooler would be replaced, as well as any lines.  
    • txab
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By txab · Posted

      Doing the right thing, replacing both valves is the way to go. The valves with the ball leak far more often than the schrader. Never cared for them. The accumulator really should be replaced if the system has had no pressure in it and it was a keeper, but since you're looking to sell it, bet you can get by. Did you pull the orifice screen and see what was there?   Shame you can't get 134a. Hopefully the previous repairs included dye.   Some of the R4s I messed with developed leaks where the line sets connected or the front seal. Had one where the HPCO was leaking. Front seal would only leak under pressure. See any obvious oily spots?   I've got nitrogen I use to test pressure and to help dry the system prior to evacuation.   Keep up the good work
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Next time you're on a road trip to a state where you can still buy it stock up on 12oz cans, you might look into getting certified so you can buy it where you are as well. When they switched from R12 to R134a the test for certification was easy, they basically just wanted the $25
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...