Jump to content

Lawn Mower Repair


deduncan

Recommended Posts

Posted

Last week I was mowing the lawn, I ran out of gas, refilled, and began mowing again. About 2 minutes after I refilled, I ran over a patch of longer grass. The grass is nothing that the mower hasn't done before (probably 6-7" long), in fact it's done much longer grass and done just fine (this is a commercial mower). After I ran through the grass, it ran normally for another 15-20 seconds, then throttle started hesitating back and forth on it's own. When I try to engage the blade, it dies.

 

I let it sit for about 2 hours in the shade to let it cool down, thinking it was a heat issue. Every time it starts, it still throttles up and down on it's own, and when I engage the blade, it dies. I would take it to a lawnmower repair shop, but I'm extremely particular because I spent $800 on this mower. The only shop I really trust is backed up 2 weeks.

 

Do any of you have any ideas? Here is the mower I have for reference: John Deere JX75

 

Thanks!

Posted

I would say that you have something intermittently blocking your fuel flow.

 

Maybe you got bad gas, or something got into the carb, and is clogging it.

 

 

What's the plug look like?

Posted

I replace the plug every 50 hours. It currently has about 7 hours on it. Good input on the fuel flow, I'll take a look in the tank/at the carb tonight. Hopefully that's what's causing it. I might also get some new fuel to rule that out as well.

Posted

maybe a faulty safety switch? i know that mine (not a john deere, some cheap off brand that the old owners of the house threw in) will die completly if i put it in reverse with the blade going or if i get off the seat with the blade going.

maybe one of those "switches" is bad?

doesnt solve the weird idle problem, but just a thought...

Posted

we actually had the same problem w/ a Cushman work cart at my job just a couple days ago. it seemed to be a problem w/ the engine actually getting the gas. every time we put the clutch in or laid off the hand throttle it would die. different machine, sound like pretty much the same prob.

we just started and stopped it a few times, fiddled w/ the throttle for quite a while, drove it at full speed for a bit, and eventually it just worked itself out. this was after it had run completely dry.

i know that doesnt help much, but the point is, we didnt have to take anything apart to fix it. just ran the machine for a while.

Posted

Sounds like running out of gas allowed junk from the bottom of the fuel tank to get into the carb. Check your inline fuel filter.

 

Changing out the spark plug is cheap and easy. I had problems with my 65 Impala, turns out that spark plugs were bad and I had just put them in only 1000 miles before my problems.

 

Never hurts to start with the cheapest easiest step and go from there.

Posted

A friend of mine just had something like this happen to his John Deere with a Kawasaki engine. It would throttle up and down all buy itself after he put new gas in it. He put premium in there thinking it would be better for the old mower. Reading some tractor message boards he found that the Kawasaki engines don’t like premium fuel for some reason. So, after draining it out and putting the regular octane fuel in there it runs like a champ again :thumbs: . Just might be something to try before you take it somewhere to get fixed.

 

Matt

Posted

My old JD 318 has done that a few times and when it has it has been a clogged low speed jet. The low speed jet carries engine at part throttle and the engine cycles in speed as it come on and off the main jet to get fuel that low speed circuit is not providing. The way I "cure" mine is to take off air cleaner and take engine to normal cutting speed and seal off carb intake with hand until it nearly dies (it will suck pretty hard) I do this a few times and all is back to normal. It is not very scientific but it does clear the jet.

Posted

Could be water in the gas. If your carb has a drain at the bottom of it, open it a bit and see is water comes out. Since water is heavier than gas, it will be at the bottom of the carb. This happened to my honda mower.

Posted
Could be water in the gas. If your carb has a drain at the bottom of it, open it a bit and see is water comes out. Since water is heavier than gas, it will be at the bottom of the carb. This happened to my honda mower.

THis is most likely true, my "crude" method sucked everything out of the bowl and straightened it right out. Water also does not pass through jets as well as gas does and can be a bit tuff to clear sometimes in small carbs.

Posted

Well, I got it fixed. Not sure exactly what I did LOL. I took off the fuel lines and sucked all the fuel out of the tank. Cleaned it as best I could, put it back together, and now it works fine. Same gas and everything. I'm thinking there may have been something blocking the line and when I disconnected everything, it knocked it loose. Hopefully it stays fixed. Thanks for your help, y'all!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...