First Oil Change questions

[HaroldCallahan]

Getting close to first oil change on new GMC Yukon XL. Has about 350 miles on it. I am thinking make first change at 500 miles, and then again at 3000 miles.

 

When should first oil change be done, and should I use synthetic oil this soon or not ???

 

I am thinking just use valvoline 5w30 and GM Delco oil filter on first change.

 

When is good time to switch to synthetic ???

[az'03Silverado]

Welcome to the forum! I still use conventional oil but I'm thinking of switching to synth at the next change. It seems like it wouldn't hurt to change to synth after one or two changes. Once you're sure all of the assembly lube and factory oil is gone. In my opinion, probably the within the next one or two changes should be fine. I'm sure the folks on the forum will have a good range of advice.

[Supurban]

I just use conventional oils.

 

For actually changing the oil, read this link on the potential mess you might make unless you take some precautions before pulling the drain plug.

 

First oil change thread.

[willfxp]

Haha, maybe I'll just bring it to the dealer of JiffyLube for the first!

[slimjim2525]

You could change the oil at 500 miles. You can switch to synthetic now if that's your wish. It will be no problem. I would not use valvoline though, that oil in general does not have a very good reputation. If you're gonna stay with dino oil I would go with havoline, or castol gtx. If you're gonna go with synthetic, i'd go with mobil 1, or german castrol (not castrol syntec).

[budhayes3]

Switching now won't be a problem, I actually did mine at about 675 mi with no problems so far (got 41k on er now). I've heard the same things as slimjim about the coventional oils also. A few years ago, my father dyno tested a bunch of different conventional oils and Mobil 1...kinda like the Castrol commercial I guess. (he's been in business building race engines since 1971) Valvoline and Quaker State were at the very bottom of the list, Texaco Havoline was number 1, and Castrol was was right there in second. I think that Pennzoil and a few others were in the middle. Mobil1 synthetic beat em all. I don't think that he tried any other synthetics such as Amsoil though.

[mcreyaufmiller]

I would wait until your 6k oil change. Give the engine time for break in before you put the Syn in it. As for the first oil change, 500, 3000, 6000 to syn. Just my thoughts. Once the syn is in you can jump to 6k oil changes as long as you are using high quality oil filters. The General suggests 5k with dino's, so 6k should not be a far stretch. the 3k oil change was made popular by Jiffy Lube when they began marketing, it worked because most people think they have to change at 3k rather than the mfgr. recommended 5k. Just me babbling.

[gnutruk]

I am an advocate of an accelerated change program early in the life of the engine. It is during that break-in period that 95% of all your wear takes place. My view is that getting the break-in particles out ASAP is one of the secrets to long and trouble-free engine life.

 

It is true that even conventional (dino) oils are good for a few thousand miles. But the micro shavings generated by the rings seating in the cylinders are a completely different issue than whether the friction modifiers break down, etc.

 

So three changes plus new filter within the first thousand is a good idea, in my view. After that, you can begin a regular change interval of three thousand, or four thousand, or whatever you want, using either dino or synth. With synth, according to the analyses I have seen and which have been discussed here in previous threads, it does appear fairly certain that you can go 6 or 8 thousand between changes.

 

The AC Delco filters are very good. There are other good filters too. Do a search on the subject, because there have been MANY discussions about filters. A strong plurality of views suggest avoiding Fram filters, even the so-called "Premium" models.

 

willfxp said:

 

"Haha, maybe I'll just bring it to the dealer or JiffyLube for the first!"

 

I'm sure he was just kidding. Don't ever take any vehicle to JiffyLube for anything. What you get there are pimple-faced kids stripping out drain plugs, pouring in five quarts when the spec. calls for six, using crappy filters, and squirting junk lube in the six easy lube points when there are 11 zerks that need grease (in 4 wheel drive triucks).

 

Well, actually, I went to JiffyLube once. It was to drop off some used motor oil for recycling. That's about the only thing they're good for.

 

gnutruk

[budhayes3]

Here's a couple of links that I posted in another thread with a bunch of good oil and filter info:

 

Oil, greases, etc:

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

 

Oil filter study:

 

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

 

another link I found, haven't really checked it out though but it looked pretty cool:

 

http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html

 

Enjoy!

 

(I use AC Delco filters myself, always have on all of my Chevy's)

[Mighty HD]

I changed the oil in the truck @ 500 miles to Mobil 1 synthetic. From there I change it every 2000 miles by the bible. I don't drive the truck much so 2000 miles may take me several months. I also changed the front/rear/xfer case fluids @ 2000 miles. When I hit 8 or 10k I'll probally change the front/rear end fluids again and the filter/fluid on the transmission (to M1 of course)

[mcreyaufmiller]

I changed the oil in the truck @ 500 miles to Mobil 1 synthetic.  From there I change it every 2000 miles by the bible.  I don't drive the truck much so 2000 miles may take me several months.    I also changed the front/rear/xfer case fluids @ 2000 miles.  When I hit 8 or 10k I'll probally change the front/rear end fluids again and the filter/fluid on the transmission (to M1 of course)

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Wow, although I am an advocate of the maintence program, that is a little extreme in my opnion. Hell I just changem my diff for the first time in 130k miles, the tech told me it looked great considering the fact it had been neglected for so long.

[unkleJ]

So far I still run regular dino oil. I would stay away from Valvoline because I just performed my oil change at 10,000 miles and the 5/30 Val. made my motor knock, as in piston slap. I was pissed. An hour later I changed the oil again to Pennzoil 10/30 and the knock has been getting quieter and has almost went away. BTW I never heard a knock/piston slap before this oil change.

 

Jeff

[kirkRHughes]

Only reason I didn't change to synthetic on my first change is the dealer gave me that one for free. Next change it got Mobil 1.

[kirkRHughes]

I am an advocate of an accelerated change program early in the life of the engine. It is during that break-in period that 95% of all your wear takes place. My view is that getting the break-in particles out ASAP is one of the secrets to long and trouble-free engine life.

 

It is true that even conventional (dino) oils are good for a few thousand miles. But the micro shavings generated by the rings seating in the cylinders are a completely different issue than whether the friction modifiers break down, etc.

 

So three changes plus new filter within the first thousand is a good idea, in my view. After that, you can begin a regular change interval of three thousand, or four thousand, or whatever you want, using either dino or synth. With synth, according to the analyses I have seen and which have been discussed here in previous threads, it does appear fairly certain that you can go 6 or 8 thousand between changes.

 

The AC Delco filters are very good. There are other good filters too. Do a search on the subject, because there have been MANY discussions about filters. A strong plurality of views suggest avoiding Fram filters, even the so-called "Premium" models.

 

willfxp said:

 

"Haha, maybe I'll just bring it to the dealer or JiffyLube for the first!"

 

I'm sure he was just kidding. Don't ever take any vehicle to JiffyLube for anything. What you get there are pimple-faced kids stripping out drain plugs, pouring in five quarts when the spec. calls for six, using crappy filters, and squirting junk lube in the six easy lube points when there are 11 zerks that need grease (in 4 wheel drive triucks).

 

Well, actually, I went to JiffyLube once. It was to drop off some used motor oil for recycling. That's about the only thing they're good for.

 

gnutruk

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I'd heard the same about Fram, but never why. I finally found out. The filter element itself is a normal paper element, and probably no better or worse than anyone else's paper element. However, the end caps on the filter element are made of cardboard in these filters. There are numerous stories of these cardboard end caps getting saturated with oil and coming apart, putting little cardboard fragments directly into the oil flow into your engine. Pennzoil, Penske, Castrol, or Quaker State oil filter are made by Fram. Surprisingly, the SuperTech sold at Wal-Mart for about $2 is as good as a factory filter, The Purolator Pure 1 is almost as good as the Mobil1 filter.

[Kgry]

Changed my oil at 1000 miles. Currently have 2000 and am bringing it in to the dealer (free oil change) and switching to syn. After that I plan on changing every 5-6k miles.