Jump to content

Truck will not turn over

orgsretep

Recommended Posts

orgsretep Enthusiast

orgsretep

Posted
Posted

I have a 98 5.7 K1500. I replaced the starter, have checked the battery and even jump acrossed the starter, which did make it turn over but not start, but I cannot get the truck to turn over with the ignition switch. Is there any way to test the switch? When I turn it to the on position everything seems to work. When I try to start it nothing works. I have tried to start it with the headlights on and they do not dim. I tested the small wire going to the starter and it is not getting any power no matter what position the key is in. I have checked and rechecked all the fuses and they are good. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

BBSilverado Enthusiast

BBSilverado

Posted
Posted
I have a 98 5.7 K1500. I replaced the starter, have checked the battery and even jump acrossed the starter, which did make it turn over but not start, but I cannot get the truck to turn over with the ignition switch. Is there any way to test the switch? When I turn it to the on position everything seems to work. When I try to start it nothing works. I have tried to start it with the headlights on and they do not dim. I tested the small wire going to the starter and it is not getting any power no matter what position the key is in. I have checked and rechecked all the fuses and they are good. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks.

 

 

 

 

That is the ignition switch or the lack of power to it. The reason it cranks but doesn't start when you jump across the starter is because the ignition switch still is not providing power to the ingnition module or distributer.

orgsretep Enthusiast

orgsretep

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the quick reply! That leads to my next question, how hard is it to change the ignition switch? Also, is it located directly below the ignition cylinder?

OUMike Senior Enthusiast

OUMike

Posted
Posted

Hmm...something tells me this isn't a ignition problem. Stick your head just under the tank and have someone try to start it. I'd be willing to bet your Fuel Pump has "moved on".

 

I just recently had a very similar problem with my 94' and that was the problem. I'm guessing this because you mentioned you couldn't start it even when bypassing the swtich.

 

Good luck

99-2door Senior Enthusiast

99-2door

Posted
Posted
Hmm...something tells me this isn't a ignition problem.  Stick your head just under the tank and have someone try to start it.  I'd be willing to bet your Fuel Pump has "moved on". 

 

I just recently had a very similar problem with my 94' and that was the problem.  I'm guessing this because you mentioned you couldn't start it even when bypassing the swtich.

 

Good luck

 

 

 

 

Yeah, ok.

That would make the truck crank but not run.

 

He says his truck is not even cranking.

 

Ignition switch is a breeze to change. You can do it without removing the column.

orgsretep Enthusiast

orgsretep

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did try putting the truck in neutral and it still would not crank when I turned the key. I am not sure of the fuel pump but would that make it not crank?

mcreyaufmiller Senior Enthusiast

mcreyaufmiller

Posted
Posted

Have you cleaned the terminals? I had a similar problem with my C-1500 and it was dirty terminals. Take them apart and cleam them with baking soda and water, there is a sleeve in one of them that will come out with some persuasion, clean them well and cover them with dielectric grease and reassemble. see if this helps. Make sure you tighten but not over tighten the terminal. Your local autozone should have a new lug and insert for about $4. Good idea to replace them occasionally.

orgsretep Enthusiast

orgsretep

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, I ordered the iginition switch. It took two days to get but I did get a good deal at $70. I found out it took two special sockets to get to it and they cost almost $20 from the Matco tool truck. Then I realized that I would be messing with wires that may or may not go to the air bag so I went ahead and bought a manual just to be safe. That was another $16. Replaced the ignition switch and it did not fix the problem! At the same time that my ignition quit working my wipers also stopped working. I noticed that two of the wires going to the turn signal switch were pulled almost completely out. I took the turn signal switch off and resoldered the wires back on. Put the turn signal back on and tried them. They still did not work! After tracing wires, checking the wiring diagrams and rechecking the parts that were replaced my buddy decided to recheck the fuses. As I stated in my initial post they all had been checked at least three times each by two different people. Well, I learned that big fuses under the hood do not always blow in the middle of the fuse. Make sure if any of you think you have a blown fuse you also look very close at each side of the fuse because it cost me over $100 to replace a fuse. Sorry for the long post, but I hope that someone who may do a seach on this type of problem will be able to fix it for less than $5.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I'm suborn like that Ed. There's a plaque in my doctor office that says, "Don't quit, take a break." Works for allot of things.    Reality is, the wife loves her SUV and even given it's issues, she'd buy another if she found one with low enough miles. Then again she has me to maintain it.    Most of what ails this thing is GM shooting themselves in the foot and by extension the buyer. Besides a ridiculous breather system the cat warm up strategy, IMHO, is the dumbest thing I've ever seen an OEM do to a vehicle they warranty. On cold start it r-e-t-a-r-d-s the ignition to like -17* ATDC and dump fuel like kicking over a pail to force combustion in the CAT's for rapid warm up. This literally hoses the oil off cylinder walls and creates enough varnish precursors to stick rings in even well maintained engines. THEN if that wasn't bad enough they recommend using a wanting fluid specification at equally stupid interval.    Common to all GDI motors I'm aware of is this silly practice of driving the HPFP off the cam giving a leaking pump direct and unchecked access to the crankcase. And sir, eventually the ALL leak. Your job is to "catch it if you can". Yes, these are the same people that removed dipsticks from engines and transmissions in belief Joe Average wasn't capable of checking, reading and maintain his own vehicles fluids. Sadly  and in large they were correct. Most people these days can't tell a sparkplug from a fire plug.  Great ideas one and all.    Every move and every error calculated to defend themselves from the law and their own customers.       
    • Fishindude
      Dash Mat

      By Fishindude · Posted

      Most online suppliers and Amazon. All have noted "not for use with Bose speakers".
    • Coastie05
      Sugar Bears 2015 GMC Terrain SLE-2 2.4 AWD

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Very interesting thread. Definitely didn’t expect to see this kind of mileage out of that engine. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...