Jump to content

TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR WOES


Recommended Posts

Posted

I just had new tires put on the Yukon and I read the owners manual about resetting the tire pressure monitor system. The warning light has been on since the installation.

 

I followed the procedure and got the horn to beep and warning lamp to flash after turning the lights on and off four times. The problem is, once I start bleeding the air out of the first tire (left front), there is no horn sound indicating that it is working.

 

Does anyone have any experience with this? Is there another way to calibrate the sensors?

 

Any advice is much appreciated.

Posted

I just rotated tires a couple weekends ago and did the procedure with no probs. Only other alternative is to take it to the dealer and have them do a diagnostic on the sensors/module and if something is broken, foot the bill to Costco that did your tires.

Posted

We have a tool to learn the sensors, but it sounds to me like the sensor is not working. Adding or removing air accomplishes the same thing once you're in learn mode. Have you tried other positions?

 

You're supposed to start with the left front, but just for the sake of seeing if any of the other sensors work, you could start somewhere else. The system just assumes you're starting with LF and going around the truck, so it wouldn't know if you started at the RF, but of course the positions will be learned incorrectly.

Posted

This scenario was guessed at over at the Suburban forum when we first heard of the new "feature". Just another thing to fail.

 

There are several points of potential failure/problems.

 

The sensor inside the tire/wheel and most likely since new tires. Or the batteries inside that unit is going bad. That sensor does not like to banged around and new tires has great potential for that and dependent on the tire monkey (I worked 3 jobs while in college and one as tire monkey...mainly to feed my racing needs).

 

Other is the sensor in the wheel well. Could have gotten wacked by the tire guy or just busted or moved. There is a distance and direction tolerance, as the signal from the in tire/wheel sender is RF.

 

Then the computer that tallies all four sensors. It could have gone bad.

 

Always wondered if the bead seating pressure/bang would harm the pressure sensor inside the assembly. If the tire shop used too much pressure to seat the bead, they could have blown the snot out of the thing.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • A complete delete is the most thorough mechanical solution, but it is also major engine work. On a quiet truck that is still under extended warranty, opening the engine purely as prevention is difficult to justify. A plug-in disabler stops commanded cylinder deactivation, but it does not remove or repair the collapsible lifters, so it should not be treated as failure insurance. I would keep the oil full, document the maintenance, and have any persistent tick, misfire, or loss of power diagnosed promptly. If the engine eventually has to come apart, that is the logical time to compare an OEM-style repair with a complete delete. The right choice depends on the truck’s symptoms, warranty status, expected ownership period, and whether the engine already needs to be opened. We explain that decision in more detail here—full disclosure, this is our own guide: https://www.bluev8.com/blogs/news/do-you-actually-need-an-afm-disabler   One exception: some 2021 L82/L84 trucks have RPO YK9, meaning cylinder deactivation was already disabled in the factory ECM; on those trucks a plug-in disabler is redundant, although the AFM/DFM hardware remains inside the engine.
    • Brought my 2015 Colorado into the dealership to check my touch screen issues, had that ghost touch thing happening. They said I needed a new touch screen and they could either order me one for $500. The lady at the service deck was nice enough to tell me I could order a touch screen online for less, she did stipulate that the touch screen had to be factory OEM, you can't pair an aftermarket screen to my radio seeing it was 2015, it had to be a GM factory OEM only. I found a few on Amazon and Ebay by the numbers on the back of the old screen, DJ080PA-01A GM# 22740886, Some said "OEM" in the description and others just said "Replacement". Would a replacement be the same as a OEM as long as it had the same numbers on the back of the screen? In some of the descriptions they also show different brand names but same numbers, is that an issue?  
    • I have both but typically use the 4 legged walker (wheels on front, ski's on back).   The four wheeler is starting to be used on "longer" outdoor walks.  The 4 legged walker is particularly helpful in practicing good walking posture.  Both of my knees are at different stages of recovery and I'm trying to not develop poor habits.  I can actually manage with a cane but it's very difficult not to favor one leg over the other.  My PT recommends I continue with my 4 legged walker for a while.  Yesterday was four weeks since my last knee replacement and I'm excited about my progress to date.  It has been a hell of a rough journey so far but it is exciting to witness  systematic and continuous improvement.  I went for years watching the decline of my "mobility".  It seems that everyday now I am alerting my wife to something I can do now that I couldn't a day or two ago!  I encourage anyone facing the prospect of knee replacement to share any concerns with others who have had the surgery.  It isn't an instant fix but rather is a considerable amount of short term pain for long term gain.  Recovery time and pain levels vary for individuals post surgery but the end results are typically very positive and I've never encountered anyone regretting having had the surgery. 
    • The lifter issue can be dealt with by shorter oil changes and quality oil IMO.
    • Got heavy rain, hail and light rain yesterday. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...