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how high?

chevyrock05

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chevyrock05 Enthusiast

chevyrock05

Posted
Posted

newbie here with a 05 std cab, short bed, 4x4 silverado. what is the best and highest lift kit that you don't have to fabricate, cut, weld, etc. i'm coming up on a deployment and will have a good chunk of change when i get back so money wont be an issue. but i want to get as big'a lift as possible without cutting and all that mess. thanks in advance. :confused:

DarkSkyDarkEye Enthusiast

DarkSkyDarkEye

Posted
Posted

Since your truck is a new rig. It has an IFS, therefore you wont want anything larger than a 38" tire. Anything bigger will ruin your transmisson, differential and all your steering components etc. with time. Too accomidate a 38" most people including myself has always done a 6" suspension w/ 3" body lift. Which will be a tight squeeze. I would recomend any 10" or higher kit. Some of these lift kits in order from favorites. these are my opinons, they com from experience and research.

 

These are quality lift big lift kits to consder.

 

cognito 10-12"

Fullthrottle 10"

3rd coast 10"

bulletproof 10"

 

**stay away from whiplash**

they still sell remainding kits. they are no longer in buisness. whiptrash was a horrible kit, design, flimsy materials etc.

chevyrock05 Enthusiast

chevyrock05

Posted
  • Author
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but you said that i need not to exceed 6in susp. lift for the ifs. but then you said a ten inch? 10in sounds nice but i dont want to eat front susp. parts every two months. i'm confused?

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
but you said that i need not to exceed 6in susp. lift for the ifs.  but then you said a ten inch?  10in sounds nice but i dont want to eat front susp. parts every two months.  i'm confused?

 

 

 

 

 

They bigger the tires, the more the offset on the bigger rims and the more leverage they excert on the front end of truck and will speed up wear (they bigger they are the more the strain and resultant wear) I would say 6 inches myself too and I would get a front drive shafts with CV's and not ujoints for when you drop the front diff with the lift. YOu want to change axle gearing too to alteast 4.56 for 36's. If you go ahead and lift it 10 inches and do not regear or use a CV in front shaft you will not only be repairing your front eng often if you play hard but front driveshaft joints and maybe a tranny too. It is a total package to do it right correctly and have it last.

DarkSkyDarkEye Enthusiast

DarkSkyDarkEye

Posted
Posted
but you said that i need not to exceed 6in susp. lift for the ifs.  but then you said a ten inch?  10in sounds nice but i dont want to eat front susp. parts every two months.  i'm confused?

 

 

 

 

What i'm trying to tell you in the past eveyone including myself has always done a 6" suspension with 3" body lift. However the 38" tire is stuffed and all the front suspension components are stressed. so If its a big kit as in, your asking how high you can get? i say go big 10" kit. Dont bother with the 6 +3 i mentioned earlier. Remember nothing bigger than a 38" tire. Also you will need to re-gear you diffs.

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
but you said that i need not to exceed 6in susp. lift for the ifs.  but then you said a ten inch?  10in sounds nice but i dont want to eat front susp. parts every two months.  i'm confused?

 

 

 

 

What i'm trying to tell you in the past eveyone including myself has always done a 6" suspension with 3" body lift. However the 38" tire is stuffed and all the front suspension components are stressed. so If its a big kit as in, your asking how high you can get? i say go big 10" kit. Dont bother with the 6 +3 i mentioned earlier. Remember nothing bigger than a 38" tire. Also you will need to re-gear you diffs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the fact it is a half ton does not help either and lets not forget the brakes because of increase leverage for big tires you can lose 25 to 30% or more braking capacity at speed. Atleast with a 3/4 ton you start with bigger brakes too. Nobody seems to mention the brake issue either.

WhiteyZ71 Enthusiast

WhiteyZ71

Posted
Posted

Yeah I wish I would have started with a 3/4 ton myself, the brakes, axles, suspension, tranny, etc...are all beefier and more 'big tire friendly' than the half ton IFS parts, but anywhoo, I know quite a few quys with 1500s, 6+3 lift combo and 35-37 or so inch tires, running at least 4.56 gears that are having no problems wiht those combinations, If you want to spend a bit more and have a really strong suspension that can flex, look into a solid front axle conversion, it will take some work, but the results dont lie

snoman Senior Enthusiast

snoman

Posted
Posted
Yeah I wish I would have started with a 3/4 ton myself, the brakes, axles, suspension, tranny, etc...are all beefier and more 'big tire friendly' than the half ton IFS parts, but anywhoo, I know quite a few quys with 1500s, 6+3 lift combo and 35-37 or so inch tires, running at least 4.56 gears that are having no problems wiht those combinations, If you want to spend a bit more and have a really strong suspension that can flex, look into a solid front axle conversion, it will take some work, but the results dont lie

 

 

 

 

 

Yes it is done but the 1500 has a lighter frame too and the frame ties it all together. No matter what you do to it short of replacing frame, axles and suspension parts, it is still 1500 and will break in hard use before a 2500 will. Now if GM would just bring back the LD 2500 and that would make a nice compromise to build from.

  • 3 weeks later...
WhiteyZ71 Enthusiast

WhiteyZ71

Posted
Posted
Yeah I wish I would have started with a 3/4 ton myself, the brakes, axles, suspension, tranny, etc...are all beefier and more 'big tire friendly' than the half ton IFS parts, but anywhoo, I know quite a few quys with 1500s, 6+3 lift combo and 35-37 or so inch tires, running at least 4.56 gears that are having no problems wiht those combinations, If you want to spend a bit more and have a really strong suspension that can flex, look into a solid front axle conversion, it will take some work, but the results dont lie

 

 

 

 

 

Yes it is done but the 1500 has a lighter frame too and the frame ties it all together. No matter what you do to it short of replacing frame, axles and suspension parts, it is still 1500 and will break in hard use before a 2500 will. Now if GM would just bring back the LD 2500 and that would make a nice compromise to build from.

 

 

 

 

 

 

I thought the OBS 1500/2500 shared the same frame? Maybe i'm wrong?

 

 

I do see a ton of toyotas with solid axle swaps, i'm sure my frame is a bit beefier than a 4 cylinder ifs toyota's frame, they seem to hold up a helluva lot better than the ifs does

  • 5 months later...
chevyrock05 Enthusiast

chevyrock05

Posted
  • Author
Posted

well i've decided what i'm gonna do. i want to put the biggest lift i can an still keep the ifs. I want the tallest lift. if i have to do a 3in body plus whatever the biggest sus. lift. any suggestions. what kind of tires and wheel package and the cost. i'm trying to get prices here to set a goal for all the deploy. money i'm getting. just sus. lift and tire wheel prices and sizes. so i can decide. thx in advance guys.

  • 1 month later...
94redZ Enthusiast

94redZ

Posted
Posted

Dude, you gotta do your HW on stuff like this. Im not bashin ya in any way shape or form, but this isnt a simple la de da decision.

 

When you think about sky high lifts and such, Its an ongoing build process.

1. You want a big lift that fits say...38s

First you got to see what your lift laws are for your state. In NJ, you can only go so high based on your trucks GVW

2. The bigger the IFS lift, the more stress on the front end components GENERALLY

The reason for this is people want bigger tires for bigger lifts, more weight, and more taxing on braking system and front end

3. to get your rpms right so you dont blow your motor or tranny, you need to regear the truck. Id say 4:56s would be ok for your application, but if your gonna wheel, you better get a bigger rear, that 10 bolt aint gonna hold up.

4. better upgrade to Moog components or uniballs

5. for anything over 6" and bigger tires, it MIGHT be better for you to consider a SAS, but only if you wheel hard. THat costs some money but if you got the bank its a good deal

Check out Pavementsucks.com under Dougs SAS or BIGWILLS sas for more info.

 

Just my .02

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