Jump to content

JP Customs HomeLink overhead console and


USA1Fan

Recommended Posts

Posted

The OHC kit I bought was the shorty console to replace the factory non-HomeLink console in my 2004 Silverado extended cab. JP Customs also offers a couple other HomeLink kits, including a full length console similar to Tahoe / Suburban / 99-02 trucks, the HomeLink module for that console w/o the console, etc.

 

The HomeLink kit came with two sets of instructions, one for installation, and the other for use and programming of the HomeLink buttons. The installation instructions were created by JP Customs and included good pictures for any possibly confusing steps. The kit also includes wiring needed to hook into the dash so that the HomeLink buttons' lighting works with the dash lighting and so that the HomeLink itself gets power (factory OHC for w/o HomeLink console doesn't have wiring for these two purposes), as well as zip ties to help keep the installed wiring neat. One of the first things I noticed was that the instructions had a photo showing the OnStar mic on the side of the existing console, but made no mention of it anywhere during the swap. So I sent an e-mail to JP Customs support asking about it (what to do, if it was going to require anything special, etc.). That was late last Friday, so it's my fault that I didn't have the reply before I'd finished the mods. No biggie, because it is really simple- the mic clips to the driver's side of the console (even got nice little molded supports on the inside lip on that edge showing exactly where to position the clip), and the wiring doesn't have to be changed at all- the mic is separate from the console wiring completely.

 

Installation of just the OHC w/HomeLink would've taken me only about 45 minutes to an hour (pretty much exactly as the instructions indicate), but I also installed the rear two button dome light at the same time, since it requires tying into wiring from the front map light connector. I had no issues at all with the HomeLink console connections, and everything worked exactly as expected when I had finished wiring it up. The only thing I would recommend changing is where you get 12v power for the HomeLink system- the instructions have you tap into a keyed 12v, with the option of connecting to any constant 12v source. I followed the instructions to the letter, but have since found that I like my buttons working regardless of whether I have my key in the ignition or not. So I'm most likely going to change where I get my power when I get the time to pull the dash apart again (maybe next weekend). This would also make the operation of my HomeLink setup consistent with what I've seen in all other GMs I've been in that had it (the TB I traded for the truck and my wife's car are two). :D

 

On to the two button dome light. If my truck had been a 99-02 I'm sure the install would have gone as smoothly as the front OHC did. Unfortunately it looks like GM changed a few things about the wiring when they did the update in 03, because one of the first things I discovered as I started the mod was that the wiring colors to the factory rear dome light didn't match the instructions in the kit. But the 3 pin connector to the dome light and the location of the two existing wires in the connector appeared to match, so being a total electrical ignoramous I proceeded to follow the instructions in the kit, substituting my wire colors for those in the instructions. When I got done, the light lit up when I turned on the dash interior light button, and I was able to turn the two courtousy lights on and off with their buttons. Everything seemed good until I realized that the courtousy lights were going OFF when the dome light did too :chevy: (totally defeating the purpose of getting the kit in the first place- ie. letting my wife turn on a light for the kids to see that dropped toy while I'm driving at night without killing my night vision from the front map lights). :D

 

The instructions had me insert the extra wire w/connector (included) into the third space on the factory connector at the dome light, then instructed me to fish the wire over the headliner to the front console, where I would tie into the ground for the map lights (and mentioned a black wire as the ground). So I had tied into the black wire going into the three wire plug for the front OHC map lights. After calling my father for some advice (he's got his master electrician's license), I dug around until I found the cheapo Radio Shack multimeter my wife bought for me one Christmas (and as far as I can recall that I had never used- told you I was a complete electrical ignoramous :P).

 

My father told me that most likely I should be looking at a single ground at the dome light, and two hot wires. One of the hot wires should be switched with the dash dome light switch while the other should be a constant 12v source. Since the factory dome light always comes on with the switch, by default one of the two existing wires had to be that live wire, and the other should be the ground. That meant that I needed to tap into a constant hot wire at the front OHC (and THAT had to be there too, since the front map lights can be turned on at any time, regardless of the dome light switch).

 

So I tested the wires at the OHC end, and found that sure enough I was tapped into the switched hot wire (so black was hot). I tested the other two wires coming into the map light and found that the orange was a constant 12v, and the remaining gray w/black stripe was my ground. So I changed the tap from the black to the orange, thinking that should take care of everything. Almost..

 

For some reason the dome light still came on in back, but now neither of the courtousy lights would come on at all. :wtf: One of the first steps the instructions had me do was swap the two existing wires out in the connector. So I swapped them again and everything started working properly. Hoo-RAA! The only wrinkle in these comments is that one of the things I did when I first noticed the issue with the dome lights and courtousy lights only working together was to swap the wires. Bad thing- I didn't pay enough attention to how the wires were when I first took the factory light out, so I can't say for sure that the wires don't need switched around for the new one, just that I had them wrong after my change to the constant hot. :D

 

As far as the incorrect instructions go- I contacted JP Customs by phone yesterday. The person I spoke with was extremely courteous and answered all my questions. They are aware of the differences between the 99-02 and 03+ truck wiring for the dome lights and will be releasing updated instructions with future dome light kits (maybe as an added sheet specifically for the newer trucks). From what I understood, the instructions are absolutely correct for the 99-02 trucks, including the need to tap a ground in the front OHC (still not sure how that works with two different circuits for the back, but I'm still not exactly an electrical genius).

 

With the wiring differences in mind, I'd highly recommend JP Customs for both kits. Even better, JP Customs support is superb (so long as your not as impatient as I am and don't jump into things before they've had a chance to get back with you :D).

 

Two thumbs up! :(:confused:

  • 1 month later...
Posted

So is the Homelink hardware all contained in the console and all that is needed to make it work is power and ground?

Posted

I added the homelink from an 02 Escalade. I swapped my storage pocket to where Escys rear AC controls were......they just snap in place. The plugs and wiring were the same for both consoles so there was no other wiring necessary. It works great.

  • 4 years later...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,840
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    appletrav
    Newest Member
    appletrav
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 287 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks; I looked there a few minutes, and I think I can find something. I really never looked there, as I thought it was stuff like PTO/aftermarket bodies/accessories like snow plows.
    • This is a 1/2 ton thing ONLY.  All HDs 2020-2026 have the two speed transfer case, with Autotrac as an option.     1/2 tons 2019-2026, regular 4x4s come with a single speed case (no 4LO!), and trucks with Z71 ordered, or all Trail Boss trucks come with the 2 speed case.  2 speed case is also an option on WT, and is also standard on High Country.  
    • 2013 5.3 still to this day calls for the PF48 filter.  Which as a 15psi bypass pressure.     There is a TSB, 17-NA-157 that talks about the PF-63 and PF-64 filters which have a higher bypass rating of 22psi.    TSB HERE - temp.xml   "Beginning in 2012, the oil pumps began to regulate main gallery feedback instead of pump out pressure. This means that the oil pump now does not begin to regulate until pressure is built up to the main gallery. This change reduces the amount of time it takes to provide oil to the engine bearing and lifters during extreme cold start conditions.  Main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are present on the following engine families which use Spin-on oil filters: Small Gas Engine (SGE), Large Gas Engine (LGE), High Feature (HFV6) Gen2 and Small Block Gen5 gasoline engines. These engines with the main gallery feedback oil pump control systems are factory built with an ACDelco® oil filters"   It also calls out what engines use those filters.  The gen 4 small blocks were not on that list (LMG, LC9, L9H, L92, L94, L20, L96).  Gen 5 small blocks use the higher pressure filter.          That all said...   Your 7045 Napa filter is the PF63 equivalent, with 22psi bypass.  You are already using the higher bypass pressure filter.  You CAN keep using it, you don't technically have to use it though.  
    • Do you know WHY the filter relief setting was increased to 22 psig?    When the new system goes into the second stage the pump volume ramps up considerably. It was found that the 15 psi filter bypass setting put the filter in bypass on a warm engine when the second stage was activated. Raising the filter bypass setting forced the filter to do what it designed to do. Filter. Preventing debris from circulating during high load, high rpm operation.    So next question is how did GM find this out? VLOM/lifter failures and a deep dive by Melling Corp.    Last question. Is it required? Look at it like this; a motor may be equipped with a rev limiter. But it only works if the set point in reached. That 22 psig setting only matters if the pressure differential across the filter media exceeds 15 psig during normal warm operation. Second stage kicks in around 3000-3500 rpm.    I can't answer your question because I don't know you and how you use the truck. But I think there is enough information here to let you decide for yourself. 😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...