Jump to content

First Oil Change


chevy4x4trucks

Recommended Posts

Posted

Message center came on to "CHANGE ENGINE OIL" @ 3128 miles. Got to the dealer and they changed it @ 3150 miles.

 

Went to the dealer because they offered two free oil changes at time of purchase. They used Valvoline All-Climate (I think it is the cheap stuff).

 

No, there was no popcorn, movie or receptionist lovely. Free coffee was available and there was a TV but not cable TV. They finished in an hour (first come first serve oil change policy) and no, they didn't wash the truck either.

 

One freebie down...one to go.

Posted

My light hasn't come on yet for the first time.  The truck has about 2750 miles and is almost 7 months old.

 

I will be taking mine to the dealer also.  I get the first change for free plus I have a couple of things for them to look at.

 

My second change will also be at the dealer too...  and so on and so on...

 

The reason I do this is it is 30 minutes or less, and everything is documented so I have nothing to prove if I were to have some sort of failure.  All the work that has been performed is in their computer.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Is anyone using synthetic oils in their engine?   :exclaim: I would think there would be more protection with synthetic versus your normal conventional oils.  Just my thoughts

 

Duty, Honor, Country

Posted

i am running and have been for about 15K miles.  Mobil 1 5w-30

Posted

RyanbabZ71....I hope we are not the only one's doing this.  I have heard nothing but good things about Mobil 1 (M1).  

 

Are you also going with the AC Delco Gold Oil Filter....it is supposed to be the best as far as filtering your oil.  

 

Take care.

 

Duty, Honor, Country

Posted
Is anyone using synthetic oils in their engine?   :exclaim: I would think there would be more protection with synthetic versus your normal conventional oils.

From what I've been told synthetics are really good, but be careful.  If you ever HAVE to change oil for some reason and you switch to a nonsynthetic (or sometimes just a different one) it can really mess things up.  Not sure if this is still true, but it used to be.  I use Havoline, because it is what was beng used in my Blazer already when I bought it, so I stuck with the same thing to be safe.

Posted
The truck has about 2750 miles and is almost 7 months old.

HUH?  2750 Miles?  7 MONTHS OLD?  What do you use it for?  Driveway patrol?

Posted

i am running the regular AC delco PF59's.  Got a bunch at walmart for 50 cents each.  I heard they arent stocking them anymore so if i have to buy elsewhere i may go to the gold filter (i have 4 or 5 left though so i am good for a yr)

Posted
i am running the regular AC delco PF59's.  Got a bunch at walmart for 50 cents each.  I heard they arent stocking them anymore so if i have to buy elsewhere i may go to the gold filter (i have 4 or 5 left though so i am good for a yr)

OH yeah, I remember that thread a while back!...you still living off those filters Ryan?  Didnt Walmart misprice them or something and you bought a bunch?

Posted

No i bought 2 they rang up 50 cents each.  Went out to my truck walked back in and bought the rest on the shelf.  Total was 12 or 14 all together.  I asked if they were marked wrong after i bought em and she said nope

Posted

I wish I could find them that cheap.  Our Wal-mart still carrys AC-Delco for now, but they don't have the size I need anymore.  So I've been using Fram, and occassionally WIX.  But I believe I bought my last WIX.

 

When I changed my oil last week, I opened the protective flap covering my oil filter and there was oil everywhere.  I had never had a drop in pressure and there were never any oil spots so I never knew this was going on.  After I got the filter off I looked at it and it has a split in it.  That scared me a little.  I already had another WIX filter, so I used it, but I've been checking it alot.  I think I'm gonna go with Fram from now on.  I only used the WIX when I was too lazy to go to Wal-Mart anyway, and just ran down to the nearest parts store.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 3,207 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...