Rust proofing the frame...

ZORA74 · July 23, 2005

I just bought a truck from Syracuse. It looks like it undercoated when new, but then ignored. This is why I hate undercoating. If you don't maintain it, it traps salty and moisture and makes things worse. I was looking into a few options.

My neighbor always soaks his frame and suspension in 30 weight motor oil every couple of years. To be honest, his 20 year old frame looks great. This also sounds like less work. I was thinking about going with POR15. Any other alternatives to undercaoting.

PELICAN · July 23, 2005

When I had my 4x4 I just painted the frame. I kept the 4x4 for a few years so do not know how it would have held up over the years but that may be an option for ya.

firstruck · July 23, 2005

I don't know if this qualifies as rustproofing but, I usually spray generous amounts of WD-40 all around the underside of our trucks about twice a year. Once late in the fall and again after powerwashing the frame in the spring. It takes two of the large cans to sorta get it everywhere water/salt would get into.

MS3DALE · July 23, 2005

I don't know if this qualifies as rustproofing but, I usually spray generous amounts of WD-40 all around the underside of our trucks about twice a year. Once late in the fall and again after powerwashing the frame in the spring. It takes two of the large cans to sorta get it everywhere water/salt would get into.

Thats just what I do,I swear I go through so much WD-40 I should buy stock in the company!

I'll sprat it on and let it soak for awhile then wipe off the excess

It sure does keep everything nice and clean under there,and your rear end housing stays nice and black,not that ugly dirt-colored brown thats so common.

lrymal · July 23, 2005

If you really want to do it right........... After the power-washing. Don't use WD-40. This isn't really WD-40's world, in spite of how incredible that product is (read its history sometime!)

There are other lube products that are just as easy to apply, better penetrating and much longer lasting. I ran into these while working with some plumbers and electricians and have been using LPS for years. LPS is used heavily in the marine and aviation world.

LPS is sold by weight: LPS1 (similar to WD-40), LPS2 (thicker), LPS3 (Very thick, gets into everything. This is what you want). The only problem is that because it is thicker, it will take more and the stuff is about twice the cost of WD-40.

http://www.lpslabs.com/Products/CorrosionInh/Lps3.asp

Here is one place that has it for under $8.00. http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/produ...php/subid=1525/

Give it a try... If you don't really like it---simple. Stop using it. I think what I especially like about all three LPS grades is how long they last.

lrymal · July 23, 2005

Oh wait... don't use LPS!!!!!!!!!!! I just got the feel of the theme of this message thread. You guys are after APPEARANCE first and rust protection second.

You don't want to use the LPS products. They are only for extreme and commercial-grade corrosion protection. You will not get the shiny look you are after.

ZORA74 · July 24, 2005

Chiseling all this unercoating is getting to be a major PITA. I might just do the bad spots. Treat the rust and cover it back up with more undercoating.

01silverado2500 · July 24, 2005

Chiseling all this unercoating is getting to be a major PITA. I might just do the bad spots. Treat the rust and cover it back up with more undercoating.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Thats what I did today, my dad has all our vehicles undercoated and I spent the day under his truck touching up some bad spots before they got worse. Atleast with undercoating its easy touchup, just remove the rust, prime, paint and repsray and it matches perfect.

DEV1ST8R · July 24, 2005

I'm a little confused about what you guys are talking about. . .are you talking about the metal chassis frame? The underside of the body panels? Wheel wells?

SubUrban Legend · July 24, 2005

My 99 Surburban looked like the frame was never painted but coated with something like cosmoline (a waxey like rust preventer). After five years, it looks like most of it wore off and the frame was starting to turn brown. I bought a quart of gloss black Rustoleum and some paint brushes and went at it. The hard part is keeping the paint off things I don't want painted (fuel lines, brake lines, etc.) The worst thing I found was how bad the rust was on the crossmember that holds the front of the gas tank straps. It was covered in dirt on top and had some bad rust scale going on. Picked the scale off and wire brushed it then drowned it in Rustoleum rusty metal primer and gloss black. I spend time crawling around under the truck ( who dosen't?) and didn't like the brown the frame was turning.

DEV1ST8R · July 24, 2005

If you paint over the rust, to keep it from getting worse, does that accomplish anything? Or does the rust underneath the paint eat away at the metal?

SubUrban Legend · July 25, 2005

It would depend on the paint you use. POR (Paint Over Rust) is designed to be used over rust and eat its way into it. The only practical way to get the POR off is with a disc sander. Rustoleum is good on a light surface rust and will protect the metal better than no paint. The rusty metal primer they make will stop rust in its tracks. I think it is a kin to POR. As long as the metal and rust are dry, the paint seems to seep in and help protect the metal.

Elwood 2000 · July 25, 2005

Not sure about LPS, but if you "undercoat" with WD40, wouldn't dirt, especially dust be attracted like a magnet?? I live in farm country and even if you don't do gravel roads, dust is everywhere.

kdm101 · July 25, 2005

Not sure about LPS, but if you "undercoat" with WD40, wouldn't dirt, especially dust be attracted like a magnet?? I live in farm country and even if you don't do gravel roads, dust is everywhere.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

believe it or not, but oil soaked dirt actually works very well as a rust inhibitor. Check out any older car that's been leaking oil and check it out underneath. Everywhere the oil sprayed onto and was trapped by dirt you'll find nice clean metal underneath. I have a '62 MGA I've started dismantling for a restoration. The entire car was suffering from rust everywhere except through the transmission tunnel.

Elwood 2000 · July 25, 2005

I understand that, but personally, I would rather deal with painted metal than an oil bomb underneath. I just makes servicing a little cleaner of a job and less obstructions when I look things over underneath.

I have always used a good black paint to touch things up from time to time. With the salt in the winter here, you can not avoid rust, you just keep it as minimal as possible. Kinda like a cat chasing it's tail, it is always there, just depends on how close you get to it!