Jump to content

Cab light upgrade question


Recommended Posts

Posted

I reviewed the threads on this and didnt see answer to my question. I have the OEM lights and was wondering if you need to make square holes like the factory does to accept plastic screw inserts. If so how? Any problem w/ sunroof?

thanks

Posted
I reviewed the threads on this and didnt see answer to my question. I have the OEM lights and was wondering if you need to make square holes like the factory does to accept plastic screw inserts. If so how? Any problem w/ sunroof?

thanks

 

 

 

 

You don't have to make square holes, you can buy round inserts or just drill a small hole and use the screws without any plastic inserts just like the aftermarket lights.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
    • I had an alternator fail that was shorted internally in such a direct fashion in addition to the larger gauge cables that it appeared like a VERY dead battery. Granted I think the car did power up, it definitely wouldn't start.   Rodent damage to wiring?
    • ... I don't think he could.
    • Using experience to justify bad advice is lazy and typical of someone incapable of articulating why their advice is prudent.    This immediately sets off the BS alert and the advice that followed certainly qualified.   Asking an idiot for help getting out of dumb situations because he is an expert... at getting himself into dumb situations.   Unless I've been living in an alternate universe - the first thing everyone does when getting into a sticky situation is shift to a higher gear 🤨.   Of course not, the torque multiplication, mechanical advantage and finer control typically afforded by the lower gear is far better suited for this scenario.   There ARE scenarios where a higher gear MIGHT be appropriate determined more by the drivers ability to control EXCESSIVE wheel spin versus applying torque to the ground.
    • I'm not sure I agree with "extreme" low speed, high torque sentiment here with regards to the prescribed use of low range. How about...whenever it's needed?   A 2.72:1 transfer case and whatever differential gears these Silverados have (3.42's, maybe?) aren't producing "extremely" low crawl speeds. Or insanely high torque multiplication. Even with the 1st gear in these newer transmissions. But it does provide mechanical advantage and potentially better control at slower speeds. And with extra weight or towing, I think it adds mechanical sympathy for the truck as well.   Plus, traction control and the other assists generally turn off when you shift into low range. Those aren't needed here, they'll work against you if you need wheel spin. In high range you'll need to figure out how to turn off the various modes those assists provide. Depending on the vehicle, those things don't all automatically turn off or turn completely off.   While I agree that a farmer might have some great practical experience, a recommendation to "always" using one gear isn't very informed advice. If the farmer had said WHY and could explain the physics behind his prescriptive "always" I'd definitely listen. The way he's described here makes it sounds like he could either be uninformed or is telling everyone what worked for him, not necessarily that there could be a more advantageous way about things.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...