Jump to content

Leather Seats Have Sun/Heat Damage

jason57

Recommended Posts

jason57 New Member

jason57

Posted
Posted

Hello,

 

I am looking into buying an '02 Tahoe, but the rear passenger seat and the backside of the front passenger seat have been damaged by the sun or some other heat. The seats are tan leather, and the damage portions looks like coffee stains.

 

Has anyone had any experience with something like this? Is there any way to remove this damage? Thanks.

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Doesn't sound like sun damage to me...Sounds more like coffee stains. :seeya:

 

Sun damage is generally a bleaching effect. Unless the seat actually got too close to the sun...You don't think that the previous owner took it to Venus do you? If so, I'd doubt the validity of the odometer readings.

 

If you could post pics, that would really help us figure out what the stains are, but since you don't own it...That might prove to be a bit difficult. :sigh:

GM-Tech Senior Enthusiast

GM-Tech

Posted
Posted

Well, I'm in South Florida where the sun shines brightly nearly every day of the year and I have not seen anything like that in leather seats. Dunno whatcha got there, but it ain't from the sun.

jason57 New Member

jason57

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the replies. I don't have any pics (since I don't yet own it).

 

If the damage is not from the sun, then I really have no idea what it could be. I doubt it is coffee because it covers the entire rear passenger seat and the back of the front passenger seat.

 

The leather is a light beige, but the damage is dark brown rings and lines. Could this be from an improper cleaning agent? The damage could be some type of chemical burn. Any other ideas or thoughts on what caused it and if it can be repaired? Thanks

Wingnut Senior Enthusiast

Wingnut

Posted
Posted

Any possibility that the truck has been sunk? Leave leather submurged at varying depths of water, and it's bound to discolor in some funny ways.

az'03Silverado Senior Enthusiast

az'03Silverado

Posted
Posted
Could be kiddie excretions. :(

 

 

 

 

Ah yes, there's nothing like a mystery stain. If you do end up buying the truck, try some Armoral Leather wipes. They clean leather very well. Or, for a few hundred clams you can get a set of Catskins for it.

cyclejerk Enthusiast

cyclejerk

Posted
Posted

Some people are known to clean there leather w/ laquer thinner. If done correctly it's ok however if the thinner says on to long this could be the issue. Is the guy/gal in the automotive bus...? :(:thumbs:

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • asilverblazer
      Slate Electric Truck

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • newdude
      Help purchasing a touch screen digitizer

      By newdude · Posted

      I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • asilverblazer
      give me some tips to make my truck look better

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...