98 Yukon fuel pump replacement

HawkScot · November 22, 2005

My wife's 98 Yukon wouldn't start yesterday at the grocery store. It cranked fine but would not fire. We used the Suburban to finish what we were doing and then came back to see what was up with the Yukon. It started and I drove it home. This morning it would not start again. It has spark but still won't start. The fuel pump relay clicks when the key is turned on but I can not hear the fuel pump at all (never listened for it before). I think the pump is bad and plan on replacing but want to make sure I am prepared before I start (of course, the tank is nearly full so will be siphoning some gas out).

It appears that the sending unit and pump are an assembly and are replaced together along with the sock filter. I would like to confirm this as well as get a part number to shop around with. It also appears that the wiring connector may need to be replaced. What is the part number for that? Do the fuel lines require a special tool to be removed?

Thanks in advance.

Scot

5.7L, autotrac 4WD

Mark_in_Tulsa · November 22, 2005

I can't help ya really, but it may speed up the process if you mention what motor you have.

HawkScot · November 22, 2005

added that i have a 5.7L, autotrac 4x4

asilverblazer · November 22, 2005

So it starts fine when cold but not when it is warm?

HawkScot · November 22, 2005

It does not start at all now.

abqchevyman · November 22, 2005

You can replace just the pump and not the sending unit, unless you want to replace both. You will need to get the tank completely down from the frame on the front end to minimize the risk of knocking the float off the sending unit when pulling the assembly out. If you pull the assembly out and the float is not on there, you need to fish around for it and snap it back into place (it's pretty obvious where it goes).

As for parts, as much as I hate saying this, go to your local GM dealer. I replaced a few pumps with ones from AutoZone (ACDelco) and Checker (not sure of brand) and they both took a dump on me after 30,000 miles. The difference in price will be less than $10-15 and you'll be glad you used OEM parts.

As for loosening the fuel line, you'll need flare nut wrenches or you risk rounding off the shoulders on the nuts.

As for the connector, it may come with it, or it will come with pigtails and just use shrink wrap on the connectors down in the tank.

Good luck. Let us know if you have any other questions.