Jump to content

For all the CB users...

97Chevyguy

Recommended Posts

97Chevyguy Enthusiast

97Chevyguy

Posted
Posted

At the moment I got a 5 foot whip antenna on the roof of my truck.  After a couple of months I saw folks with the antennas mounted on the bumper and I said to myself, "wow, that looks pretty good".  I could change it if I wanted to, luck would have it I have a magnetic mount but I had to drill a little hole in the door to get the coax cable in the truck.  Question 1, for people that have magnetic mounts, would the actual antenna part still be useable on the bumper mount, all i'd have to do is screw it on or does that whole antenna become useless when switching?  Question 2, more of a opinion that I want to hear, do I keep my 5 foot whip on the roof or do I get a bumper mount and live with a small drill hole in the door?  What kind of setup does everyone else use?

WEFs99 Enthusiast

WEFs99

Posted
Posted

The roof mount is the most efficient but if you really like the looks of it on the bumper, it should be a unit designed for the bumper. A fiberglass model can be painted to match.

SilveradoWV Senior Enthusiast

SilveradoWV

Posted
Posted

Fiberglass is the way to go on the bumper IMO! All you use it for is transmit, the metal on your truck becomes your recieve. When using a bumper setup I always used a thing I called a "One Shot" , drill one hole for this to go in and then screw your antenna on it. Make sure it is metal to metal with the bumper and then your whole truck becomes the outer part of your coax. Not sure if I explained this correct or not, if you have any questions about what I said let me know and I'll try to explain it a different way!

Tobes Enthusiast

Tobes

Posted
Posted

you should not have to drill into the door of the truck.  There are a couple of drain plugs that have rubber plugs in them under the cab of the truck (if I remember correctly)

 

You have a 5' magnetic mount ant.?  I would not have thought that would stay on the truck. ???

97Chevyguy Enthusiast

97Chevyguy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
You have a 5' magnetic mount ant.?  I would not have thought that would stay on the truck. ???

I've only had trouble with it once.  Going down my driveway we got a lot of low branches hanging off trees.  I smacked one so hard that it knocked the mount off the roof and banged the passenger side widow.  After cutting the branches off I don't have any problem going down my driveway.  It's a Wilson 1000 and the box claims it can stand something up to 90 mph winds...having never been in 90 mph winds I wouldn't know though.

ClawSS Enthusiast

ClawSS

Posted
Posted

I bet if you pushed down a bit more on that long pedal on the right you could test their claim.   :D  :devil:  :P  :)

jgriffin Enthusiast

jgriffin

Posted
Posted

Roof mount is far better from an efficiency standpoint as the roof provides the best ground plane for your antenna system.  That said, I use a fender mount for my amateur radio antennas as I didn't want to drill holes in the roof (or use a mag mount).  You will get some different lobing effects with this type of setup. It all depends on your priorities:  maximum efficiency or appearance.

Guest Friz

Guest Friz

Posted
Posted

I have a 4 ft magnetic mount Cobra. I run the cable through the back, passenger door. The cable has a very slight crimp, but nothing major and it has not affected my vswr.

I don't want to drill a hole in my truck, that's why it's the way it is. Also, my wife thinks the antenna is too "redneck looking". I don't know what she's worried about, she drives a 1 ton, crew cab 4x4 to work at Home Depot. What else does she need to say "North Florida Redneck"?

BTW, that antenna stayed on while doing 85-90 down I-10 a few weeks ago. Gas mileage sucked, though...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • fondupot
      Exhaust heat while towing!

      By fondupot · Posted

      You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • smooth68
      Alternate wiring for Kicker sub with Bose system. (DO THIS)

      By smooth68 · Posted

      I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • glenn27
      Different requirements for oil filters?

      By glenn27 · Posted

      ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...