Weak Beds

MTmace · July 15, 2002

I was talking with someone at a body shop the other day and he was commenting on the weak bed from GM. He has had a few trucks with tool boxes that were too heavy for the bed rails and it started to crack the metal on the bed. Sucks!!! I can't imagin a truck being so weak you can not put a tool box on it.

He said GM is even aware of the problem and has a kit that they send him with metal brackets to steardy the rails. They will not fix the problem until the bed actually starts to fall apart. To bad, if I want a tool box I would like to install the brackets before I have the problem, but I would have to do it am my cost.

Has anyone else heard of this problem?

MTmace

SilveradoWV · July 15, 2002

Havent had a cracking problem yet, but the paint in the bed sucks. I just barely touch it and its scratched!!!!!!! Got a bedliner now so I can just toss stuff in and not worry about it!

racer · July 16, 2002

Pickup Box Sheet Metal Fracture/Damage with Aftermarket Accessories Installed (Repair Pickup Box Damage and Install Pickup Box Reinforcements) #01-08-66-014

Pickup Box Sheet Metal Fracture/Damage with Aftermarket Accessories Installed (Repair Pickup Box Fracture/Damage and Install Pickup Box Reinforcements)

1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (New Body Style)

with Steel Fleetside Pickup box (RPO E63)

Except Dual Rear Wheel (RPO R05), Stepside (RPO E62) and Inner Composite (RPO E37) Pickup Boxes

Important

Implementation of this Service Bulletin by "GM of Canada" dealers requires prior District Service Manager approval.

Condition

Some customers may comment about pickup box sheet metal fractures/damage when using aftermarket accessories such as tool boxes, window barrier and ladder racks.

The following illustrations are typical examples of the types of fractures/damage that may occur.

FIGURE Pickup Box Perforation (Left Front of Box)©

FIGURE Pickup Box Perforation (Inner Side - Rear)©

FIGURE Pickup Box Perforation (Outer Front of Box with Pickup Box Removed)©

Correction

Repair the damaged pickup box using the following procedure. When repairing any damage to the front of the pickup box, it may be necessary to remove the pickup box from the frame.

Drill a 6 mm (0.23 in) hole in the extreme end of the crack.

Prepare inner crack for welding.

Important

Do not use oxyacetylene welding equipment. MIG WELD ONLY.

Weld the crack using the appropriate welding technique.

Clean and prepare all of the welding surfaces.

Return surface contour to its original contour.

Important

Prior to refinishing, refer to publication GM4901M-D-2002 (English) or GM4901M-D-F2002 (French) GM Approved Refinish Materials for recommended products. Do not combine the paint systems. Refer to the paint manufacturer's recommendations.

Refinish as necessary.

Apply an approved anti-corrosion material to all of the bare metal surfaces.

After completion of any repairs due to the use of aftermarket accessories, install new pickup box reinforcements using the following procedure and the applicable part numbers listed below.

Pickup Box Reinforcement Installation

Important

The reinforcements must be installed before adding a toolbox or ladder rack system. After the reinforcements have been installed, follow the instructions supplied with the toolbox/ladder rack system for installation onto the pickup box.

Use the following service procedure to install the reinforcements. Use the applicable reinforcement kit part number listed below.

Cross Toolbox and Rear Window Barrier Applications - Front Reinforcement Installation

Important

The horizontal surfaces of the reinforcements must be flush to the horizontal surface of the pickup box top rail. Use a clamping tool when positioning the reinforcements onto the top rail to ensure flushness to the outer panel.

Place the front L-shaped reinforcements into position on the front top of the pickup box. For vehicles equipped with an over the rail bedliner, the bedliner should be removed with the aid of an assistant prior to installing these reinforcements.

Mark the holes necessary for drilling.

Remove the front reinforcements.

Important

Use a block of wood and/or a drill stop in order to protect the back of the cab while drilling.

Drill two 13.5 mm (0.54 in) holes per side into the box section of the front panel.

Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

Apply anti-corrosion material to the drilled holes as necessary using the information found in the applicable Service Manual and GM Refinish Material Booklet 4901M-D-2002 (English) or 4901M-D-F2002 (French).

Place the front reinforcements back onto the box, lining up the drilled holes.

Install the large shoulder (M8) bolts into the reinforcement and front panel (total of 4) and the small (M6) bolts into the reinforcement and side outer panel (total of 6) with the nuts. Tighten

Tighten the M8 bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).

Tighten the M6 bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

Remove all metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.

Install the bedliner if equipped with the aid of an assistant. The bedliner may need to be trimmed in order to obtain the necessary clearance for the reinforcements.

Ladder Rack and/or Side Tool Box Applications - Reinforcement Kit Installation

Install the LH and RH front L-shaped reinforcements using the procedure above.

Remove the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies. This is necessary to gain access to install the rearmost bolt of the rear reinforcement.

Place the LH and RH rear reinforcements into position on the pickup box.

Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the reinforcements.

Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

Apply anti-corrosion material to the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under Front Reinforcement Installation procedure.

Place the rear reinforcements back onto the pickup box.

Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts. Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

Install the LH and RH rear taillamp assemblies.

Place the LH and RH center reinforcement into position on the pickup box.

On the 2.4 m (8 ft) long pickup box models, this center reinforcement fits over the existing center stake hole.

On the 2 m (6.5 ft) short box models, these center reinforcements are recommended to be installed. The reinforcements should be centered between the front and rear reinforcements on the pickup box.

Mark the holes necessary for drilling and remove the brackets.

Drill 7.5 mm (0.30 in) holes into the weld flange of the side outer panel.

Touch-up the drilled holes as necessary. Refer to step 6 under the Front Reinforcement Installation procedure.

Place the center reinforcements back onto the pickup box.

Install the M6 bolts through the reinforcement and side panel with the nuts. Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 9 N·m (79 lb in).

Remove any metal shavings from the pickup box after installation.

*Maximum Equipment Weight Capacities (Equipment and Cargo)

Ladder Rack and Cargo - 364 kg (800 lb)

Cross Toolbox and Cargo - 182 kg (400 lb)

Side Tool boxes and Cargo - 159 kg (350 lb) (per side)

*The combined weight for all rail-mounted equipment should not exceed 545 kg (1, 200 lb).

Parts Information

P/N 15068208 contains the reinforcements necessary to install ladder rack systems and/or side-mounted toolboxes.

P/N 15068209 contains the reinforcements for cross toolbox and/or rear window barrier applications only.

Part Number

Description

15068208

Reinforcement Kit - Pickup Box Otr S/PNL

Includes Frt, Ctr, and Rr S/PNL Reinforcements (LH and RH) w/Bolts and Nuts

15068209

Reinforcement Kit - Pickup Box Otr S/PNL

Includes Frt S/PNL Reinforcements (LH and RH) w/Bolts and Nuts

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

*A9971 (Front)

Repair and Repaint (Spot Paint) Panels (as required)

**Use Straight Time

*A9972 (Rear)

B4811

Pickup Box Reinforcements (Front) - Install

0.9 hr

Add

Install rear reinforcements for 6 or 8 ft box

0.4 hr

Add

Install side reinforcements for 6 or 8 ft box

0.3 hr

Add

With bedliner and cut for clearance

0.2 hr

Jpshostr · July 16, 2002

It is so pathetic that today's trucks can't handle real work anymore. Sure, the drivetrains are so strong so the city boys can go fast, but try to fill the bed heavily repeatedly while having a toolbox on the bedrails, forget it.

Another reason we are happy we went with the Classic 2500 over the new HDs in 2000. The sheet metal isn't the greatest, but its a #### of a lot better than this crap they are putting in the beds of the new ones.

5.3LSilverado01 · July 16, 2002

My $.02.....

My friends got a 2000 Silverado Z71 ext cab with a factory ordered Fire Engine Red paint job that is just beutiful!!!! Anyway, he's got a toolbox designed for the new gm trucks from TSC (tractor supply company), I think its from there. Its the one with the sides of the lid are black and not square, but shaped to match the truck, uh if that makes sence. It looks pimp-tight!!!

Anyway, the rails hold up just fine. I've had many of times 3 or 4 people sitting on each rail, cruising the beach. Now I agree that its no comparison to the older trucks. Sure with 1/4" sheet metal beds weighing as much as the truck it self would be great, but i think uncle sam wouldn't like the 3mpg you get.

Uhhh, city boys can go fast? I love that fact that there is not to much on the road that could even think of touching me, till 97mph. Its a 5000lbs truck that can get to 60 in around 7sec, cruise like a caddy at 85mph at just over 2000rpm getting 20+mpg, pull me a boat or a trailer full of trash wieghing in at 6300lbs, be nimble enough to haul a$$ around a few corners, and pretty much do anything i tell it to, and be ready to do it all again tomorrow. Tell me thats not a good truck.

mrblack · July 16, 2002

Silverado's are cars - with truck beds that's the way there building them cause that's what the average consumer wants... can't even plow right with those independant suspensions...

GnatGoSplat · July 16, 2002

Yes, it's all true, and GM cuts costs every year.

The sheetmetal on the old body style is much thicker.

Jpshostr · July 16, 2002

Anyway, the rails hold up just fine. I've had many of times 3 or 4 people sitting on each rail, cruising the beach. Now I agree that its no comparison to the older trucks.

Check back in a few years, maybe he'll get along fine if all he does is drive down the road, if he doesn't load up the toolbox, whatever. If he does any driving of any amount off pavement where he is twisting up the truck on rough ground, the effects will be seen.

On these HDs, I've seen way too many ripples in the sheet metal of trucks used in the above manner, and they've only been out a very short time! As the years go on and on, this will show up more and more.

All I gotta say is, a bedrail should not buckle when you put your knee on it. Yet, these new trucks do just that. For the obscene amounts of money these things are costing, I'd sure expect a little quality and ability to work it hard on tough ground conditions, not have to baby it and still have to live with the thing going to #### and looking like #### after a few years.

On edit,

To show what I'm talking about, how long do you think this thin metal beds will last when put in an environment such as this. While during this picture the truck is at rest, we expect it to handle ruts such as this out in the pasture at speed. Notice the flex in the frame and such. While no, this isn't much at all for the hardcore offroaders who build up their trucks for this, we are buying a truck to handle this kind of environment and expect it to do such. I just don't see how these beds are going to last at all in an environment such as this.

5.3LSilverado01 · July 17, 2002

You have no idea how much accuall work my truck does. Or how many off-road miles on this truck. Remember I live in a small TX town. Horrible train tracks all over, and if your not in town, or on a highway, your on a crappy dirt road. You know the ones that feel like theres a entire road crew all with jackhammers pounding on your truck? I also spend alot of time at my friends property (150 acres on the Brazos Valley River), and you CAN NOT even think about taking a car out there. Theres a path from there camphouse to the river's sandbar that requires getting close to the truck articulation limits and a few 3 wheels on the ground spots. Now they have plowed a nicer path (still not car territory) right beside this one, but whats the fun on taking that? Everytime it rains, there cattle tear those paths up, even more fun.

OH, I just remebered one time we were loading up a 400cc ATV. The only ramps (boards) we could find were way to short and made a redicoulus angle of about 50-60*, no bs. My freind, (the guy with the red Z), said he could do it, so i was like go for it. With the tailgate off, he got up a little speed, hit the ramps, and launch the 4-wheeler about 1.5 foot above the rails. The front right side tire hit dead on the rail, slipped off, and the frame of the atv hit right above the right tail light making a 1/3" dent. Other than that, no damage done.

Or have you ever drove around town with a 1/2 full untied keg rolling around in the bed? Every time you turn, brake, or accelorate, the keg will hit the bed sides and front and tailgate with a lot of force. I can proudly say, NO DAMMAGE DONE!!! The paint in the bed was another story, but i'm getting a spray in liner soon.

I can go on and on......

I know some of you are thinking, F*CK this stupid lying kid, he probably don't have a truck, bla bla bla i'm a old stuck up a$$.

For any believers out there, thank you. For the rest of you, I'll just have to post some pics to confirm everything i've said.

5.3LSilverado01 · July 17, 2002

I've put my truck through alot worse than that at speed. I went out side and put me knee on the bedrail, then stood on it barefoot with all my weight on my heals, nothing... I'm 6'2" and weigh 230.

Anyway, you do have a nice truck!

A truck frame is engineered to twist like that. Thats way the bed and cab are seperated. When there attached, (suburban, tahoe, av, ect.), you don't want much twist at all, so gm boxes up the "C" frame rails.

Jpshostr · July 17, 2002

5.3LSilverado01,

My post was not meant in any way to make you mad, as it appears I have done. I am just stating my opinion, and I strongly stand by it.

All I say is give it time; the consequences of this thin sheet metal will become apparent after these trucks have logged a couple years of tough work. On the surface, going with this thinner stuff seems great, lower weight, better mileage, lower cost to build (not that we see any effects), and so on. Yet, with anything of this nature, there has got to be a drawback somewhere. In this case long term durability.

I'm not disputing any of the things you say you have done at all. As a matter of fact, I'd be greatly surprised (and pissed off) if any of those things damaged the bed severely. Heck, while I haven't done those exact things you describe, I've done the equivalent or worse (250lb mineral tubs getting dropped in (stupid forklift drivers) and rolling around for example), with this picture to show the effects of it. As you can tell, the bed is still in pretty damn good shape, especially for a farm truck. You also don't have to tell me about rough driving, come on out and ride along as I check cows some day.

The angle that I am trying to get at with these posts is the fatigue that these working trucks put up with will over time warp the sheet metal, causing body damage and such, something that I see as unacceptable. Think I am lying about this? Why do you think Chevrolet/GMC has sent out directions on how to fix this, as shown in the post by racer? Because it has become a clear problem for those that use their trucks in a hard manner, even in this short time these new body styles have been out. I've seen this with my own eyes, warps on the side panels on each side of the front end of the bed, underneath the crossover toolbox. If these were just isolated incidents, GM wouldn't be sending out directions on how to fix it, but as they did do such a thing, it is clear it IS a problem. Now going out and beating a truck every once in a while most likely won't cause these bed problems to show up, but for those trucks that work day in and day out, well it going to happen much sooner than it is later.

Now I know trucks are designed to have flex in the frame, I'm not an idiot (although I guess I am one in the eyes of quite a few people on this forum). My point of pointing out the flex is that it exists, and it is not all limited to the frame between the cab and bed. With a longbed such as ours, there is eight feet there that is going to flex as well. I'm sure given enough time the sheet metal on our Classic style will do the same as these newer ones are, but it will sure last a whole lot longer, all due to better sheet metal. Yes, like I said in my previous post, which picture sure doesn't show much at all, but it’s the best I can do for the time being. I'd love to see some proof of yours working hard, and doing it well, to back up your claims, I can't get enough of those pictures. I've got some short movies stored on my computer here taken during a typical day of going through the pasture that illustrate my point better, I'm just trying to get them formatted a different way and uploaded to a website. Once I'm able to do that, I'm sure you'll find that out.

Again, my posts are in no way intended to piss anyone off. Somehow I do have a knack of doing that though, I guess I just tell things as I see them and don't sugarcoat it. Feel free to come back with your own comments, just try to see things from the angle I'm talking about.

Just give it time, and I'm not talking two weeks, these beds will be damaged under hard use. Just give it time.

HillHound · July 17, 2002

Dang Jp...your truck's wheel well looks cleaner than the cab!! If I didn't know better, I'd swear you might have washed that pavement queen's bed out recently!! (You know I'm kidding!)

Seriously though-that's the first I've heard of any problems with the bed rails being weak. I stand on mine all the time and so far they're fine. Actually I've had a 500lb brush hog in there several times-a few times one side of it was resting on the passenger side bedrail for a short time during loading and it never hurt anything that I could see

gmcjoe · July 17, 2002

JP - I get your point, the trucks are not as 'Chevy Tough' as they used to be, that is for sure. The metal DOES dent easier and I have seen the pictures of the cracking steel beds. Since these trucks are marketed as such, things like that are NOT acceptable.

5.3LSilverado01 - Don't take those posts so personal, I see you're new (posting at least), sit back and enjoy the ride here

GnatGoSplat · July 17, 2002

Yes, the TSB's are very real. There are at least 2 of them regarding this issue. I wonder how much tougher (if any) is the Protec box?

5.3LSilverado01 · July 18, 2002

I didn't take it personal, I also pretty much say, or type what i'm thinking, never intending to put down or hurt anyone. I work nights from 5pm till about 2-4am in a cement/frac lab. Setting up the tests takes no time at all, then I just basically babysit the machines, watch DVD's, to many damn phone calls (friggin cell phone), or go online, or do what ever. So I got alot of time to make these reply's so I can go into more detail and such...

For the 1/2 tons, I think there beds are fine, (well atleast mine is), I guess a ~100lbs more metal on the bed wouldn't hurt...

Now maybe the 3/4 ton and 1 ton's could use bullet proof beds, the extra weight would not even be noticalbe.