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Wheel Bearings

nhproxr

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nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
Posted

How much of a job is it to change a wheel bearing in a '99 'hoe (OBS) with 4wd?

 

My Hayes manual only list the procedure for doing it on 2wd trucks. I've done plenty of front end work before, ball joints, bearings in solid axle trucks, u-joints, cv shafts...etc.

 

Are there any special tools needed?

 

Also not related but where do we '88-'99 old body style truck guys go now for a sub-forum???

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
How much of a job is it to change a wheel bearing in a '99 'hoe (OBS) with 4wd?

 

My Hayes manual only list the procedure for doing it on 2wd trucks.  I've done plenty of front end work before, ball joints, bearings in solid axle trucks, u-joints, cv shafts...etc.

 

Are there any special tools needed?

 

Also not related but where do we '88-'99 old body style truck guys go now for a sub-forum???

 

 

 

 

I might of answered it myself by looking up part online. Looks like you buy complete hub assembly. Looks like there is just 3 bolts holding it onto the spindle?

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted
How much of a job is it to change a wheel bearing in a '99 'hoe (OBS) with 4wd?

 

My Hayes manual only list the procedure for doing it on 2wd trucks.  I've done plenty of front end work before, ball joints, bearings in solid axle trucks, u-joints, cv shafts...etc.

 

Are there any special tools needed?

 

Also not related but where do we '88-'99 old body style truck guys go now for a sub-forum???

 

 

 

 

I might of answered it myself by looking up part online. Looks like you buy complete hub assembly. Looks like there is just 3 bolts holding it onto the spindle?

 

 

 

 

 

There is a little more to it on 4x4. You will have to remove the front half shafts (axle). Not too bad but you will need a large socket to remove the nut at the end of each axle. Other than that, it's not too bad.

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is a little more to it on 4x4. You will have to remove the front half shafts (axle). Not too bad but you will need a large socket to remove the nut at the end of each axle. Other than that, it's not too bad.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I understand you'd have to take off axle nut. Would you have to remove shaft though? Couldn't you just slide the hub assembly off the shaft afer nut is removed?

Bish Senior Enthusiast

Bish

Posted
Posted

There is a little more to it on 4x4. You will have to remove the front half shafts (axle). Not too bad but you will need a large socket to remove the nut at the end of each axle. Other than that, it's not too bad.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I understand you'd have to take off axle nut. Would you have to remove shaft though? Couldn't you just slide the hub assembly off the shaft afer nut is removed?

 

 

 

 

 

You might be able to but I had to use a plastic hammer to get the half-shaft removed from the hub. I didn't want to hit the half shaft when it was still connected to the front diff as I wasn't sure if I would damage something in the diff.

bronyaur Enthusiast

bronyaur

Posted
Posted

It's a piece of cake. You need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut (break it loose 1/4 turn before you jack the wheel). Remove the brake caliper and rotor. Then use a good quality 6-point 15mm socket to remove the three hub bolts. Every hub I've ever worked on has come right off, but I have heard of others using a puller or tapping it with a dead-blow hammer to break it loose. You won't need to remove any part of the axle. When you put it back together, grease the axle splines. Torque bolts to 133. Get the hub nut as tight as you can before you drop it on the ground, then torque it to 165.

 

NAPA Auto Parts carries the replacement hub assembly in my area for about $225. It comes with a new ABS sensor.

nhproxr Enthusiast

nhproxr

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It's a piece of cake.  You need a 36mm socket to remove the axle nut (break it loose 1/4 turn before you jack the wheel).  Remove the brake caliper and rotor.  Then use a good quality 6-point 15mm socket to remove the three hub bolts.  Every hub I've ever worked on has come right off, but I have heard of others using a puller or tapping it with a dead-blow hammer to break it loose.  You won't need to remove any part of the axle.  When you put it back together, grease the axle splines.  Torque bolts to 133.  Get the hub nut as tight as you can before you drop it on the ground, then torque it to 165.

 

NAPA Auto Parts carries the replacement hub assembly in my area for about $225.  It comes with a new ABS sensor.

 

 

 

 

Thanks man, that's exactly what I thought the job would be like. :nopity::confused:

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