Jump to content

Tire Question


Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay. I need tires.So I want to go up to 285's on my new style Sierra. I'm getting a set of Cooper Dicoverer AT's as I type this. The guy calls me back and say's Cooper does'nt recommend putting these on a 7 inch rim. I told him to go ahead anyway. I know alot of you have the same size tire although a different brand.

Bridgestone Desert Dueler 32.9 inches, 8.7 width

BF Goodrich All Ter. TA KO 32.9 inches 9.2 width

Cooper Discoverer AT 32.85 inches  9.0 width

all the above websites recommend a wheel width of 7.5 to 9.0

inches.

My stock rims are 7 inch.

He said they would wear faster. They'll still give me the full warranty of 50,000 miles but said they don't recommend this and was required to tell me so. Very nice guy.

Should I worry about this or will they be o.k.?

thanks for any input.   Rich ???  ???

Posted

You  will have no problems with the 285's.This is the second truck I run 305's on and I haven't had one problem yet including tire wear.I pull heavy loads often and everything has been fine.....Gun

Posted

I have 285 BFG's on my 01 Z71 for 10k with no problems at all.  You'll will be fine, they look so much better than the 265 firestone's.

 

Shotgun- Do the 1500hd's sit higher than the standard 1500's?

I would have loved to put 305's on but It looked like to tight of a fit for my tast.

Posted

Yea Debo the 1500HD does have a higher stance,but I had the 305's on my '97 Z71 and had plenty room ,I didn't even crank the torsion bars......Gun

Posted

Thanks for all the input guys. It made me feel more confident about telling the tire guy to go ahead with the 285 Coopers. I'v had them a few days now and I love 'em. :love:

The ride and extra height is great.

I got them the about the same time the site shut down......Oh no.....you don't think........... :O  :O

Posted

What was this forum about...I'm stuck looking at Shotgun's hooter girl..

Don't worry about the tires, they will work fine.

Posted

I have a 2000 Chev Silverado Z71.  I put BFG 285-16 AT KO's on my stock rims about 7000 miles ago. The outside corners of all four tires are starting to erode.  The tire shop contacted BFG about the problem and was told it is caused by the "narrow" stock rims and their positive off set. According to BFG this rim/offset puts excessive pressure on the outside edges of the tire during cornering. BFG will not warranty the tires on stock rims. :)

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...