Jump to content

Oil pressure gauge question


CPT Furious

Recommended Posts

Posted

GM-Tech and all,

 

I recently bought a 2003 Z71 Suburban with the 5.3 and it works great with the exception of the oil pressure gauge. Sometimes, it will read perfectly but most of the time it will peg out past 80 psi and go all the way clockwise. I've searched and posted before about it and someone mentioned reprogramming the gauge. How do you do this or is it possible?

 

The individual I purchased the truck from said he had the sender replaced and the oil pressure checked and all was normal, but I would like to get this fixed. If I turn the key off, the other needles return to zero and the oil pressure needle drops a little bit, but still stays past 80 psi. Where is the sender located on the 5.3?

 

Thanks!

Posted

In some ways, it sounds like the oil pressure sensor, but the fact that it stays past 80 with the key off sounds more like a cluster problem. Reprogramming is not going to do anything for you.

 

The sensor is located on the back of the engine, where the distributor used to be.

Posted
Do I have to replace the whole cluster or is it possible to just replace  something related to the oil pressure gauge?

 

 

 

 

Parts for the cluster are not serviced separately. You either have to send it out for repairs to an AC Delco repair facility or replace it.

Posted

Thanks, guys. Aside from being a PITA to get to, is there a connector I can disconnect or something to try to get the needle to drop? It moves almost like it would indicate right if the pointer would just start out at zero!

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Resurrecting...

 

Do you happen to know that thread pitch of the factory sender? I am considering installing an Autometer gauge that I already have for oil pressure since the quote I got was $450 to fix it! I'd rather use the Autometer until something else on the cluster went out...

 

Thanks!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • .30” of rain all month and it’s been weeks since that. “Mowed” our two properties today for the first time since July 2nd. It only took 30 minutes because all I had to do was level some weeds and saplings in a few problem areas. Everything else is dead.
    • Dealer reported a failed shifter module assembly so the whole shifter is getting replaced. Yet another premature repair… up to $12,000+ in extended warranty payout in only 5 years and 80,000 miles! 
    • According to the dealer it’s an internal leak/failure of the compressor.  Again, another failure that shouldn’t happen at only 5 years and 80k miles.  For some reason the compressors must be hard to come by right now, because the truck’s been at the dealer almost a week and they just located a compressor at another dealer several states away today.  We’ll see if this fixes the issue.  
    • I'm not sure if this should be a reply on this thread or a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - ACDelco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles. When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so i did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance.
    • I wasn’t commenting on your post. Certainly wasn’t arguing. I was making an observation on my long term experience with supposedly proper length of driving for proper heat cycles. Works for me. Although I have seen water or vapor come out of exhaust when vehicles weren’t run very long and shut off. It’s very humid in the morning. Then hot and humid. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...