Replacing Rotors

[drumset5994]

So i ordered new Rear Raybestos rotors online a few days ago, and they came in. $29.95 a piece...not bad at all.

 

So, whats the easiest way to take off the rotors? I hear its only two bolts to take the whole caliper assembly off and you hammer away they come off.

 

Any tips or tricks?

[pm26]

So i ordered new Rear Raybestos rotors online a few days ago, and they came in.  $29.95 a piece...not bad at all.

 

So, whats the easiest way to take off the rotors?  I hear its only two bolts to take the whole caliper assembly off and you hammer away they come off.

 

Any tips or tricks?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Try not to hammer on the old ones. Use penetrating oil between the hub and rotor to loosen the surface rust and then tap on the rotors with a rubber mallet to break them loose.

[asepgrad98]

be prepared to change the park brake shoes and clips while you got the rotor off

[c4cruiser]

Do the calipers need to come off first? Or can you simply remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts and pull the assembly off?

 

The mounting bracket bolts are probably on pretty tight. I would assume the torque specs for the bolts are in the 70 to 100 ft-lb area and the bolts should have a factory applied threadlocker.

 

On my Corvettes, the service manual says to toss the mounting bracket bolts and buy new ones. But the reason for that is the factory threadlocker. You should be able to remove the old threadlocker with a wire brush wheel and reapply some FelPro BLUE threadlocker. Don't use the RED stuff as it needs heat to loosen.

 

The bolts should be torqued to the specified value when you reattach the brackets.

 

BTW, anyone know what the torque specs are for both the front and rear caliper mounting brackets? My 99 Z71 will be getting some new pads next spring and I will be doing the work myself. The calipers are in good shape and I will probably give the rotors a light clean-up turning.

[pm26]

Do the calipers need to come off first?  Or can you simply remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts and pull the assembly off? 

 

The mounting bracket bolts are probably on pretty tight. I would assume the torque specs for the bolts are in the 70 to 100 ft-lb area and the bolts should have a factory applied threadlocker.

 

On my Corvettes, the service manual says to toss the mounting bracket bolts and buy new ones.  But the reason for that is the factory threadlocker.  You should be able to remove the old threadlocker with a wire brush wheel and reapply some FelPro BLUE threadlocker.  Don't use the RED stuff as it needs heat to loosen.

 

The bolts should be torqued to the specified value when you reattach the brackets.

 

BTW, anyone know what the torque specs are for both the front and rear caliper mounting brackets?  My 99 Z71 will be getting some new pads  next spring and I will be doing the work myself.  The calipers are in good shape and I will probably give the rotors a light clean-up turning.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Yes, you always remove the calipers before removing the rotors. You need to get a wire coat hanger, unravel it, cut two pieces of wire, about 15 inches long each, and bend them into an "S" hook. When you break a caliper loose, suspend it from the frame bracket or something like that by a wire hook. Never suspend the caliper from the brake hose! And make sure you do not drop it so that it will stretch and possibly destroy the brake hose metal crimp connection.

 

I have never used loktite or any other thread locker on brake caliper bolts. these are grande 8 heat treated bolts and are tightened to pretty high torque so they will not come loose. If you feel you must use Loktite, then use only moderate strength blue version, not the high strength red version.

[kdm101]

Yes, you always remove the calipers before removing the rotors.  You need to get a wire coat hanger, unravel it, cut two pieces of wire, about 15 inches long each, and bend them  into an "S" hook.  When you break a caliper loose, suspend it from the frame bracket or something like that by a wire hook.  Never suspend the caliper from the brake hose!  And make sure you do not drop it so that it will stretch and possibly destroy the brake hose metal crimp connection. 

 

I use long nylon wire ties to hold up the caliper.

 

This may be closer to answering your question about the caliper - you can remove the caliper and mounting bracket as one assemply. You don't need to pull the caliper off, then remove the mounting bracket (although that may be easier to work with). After that, the factory rotors have a retaining clip on one or two of the wheel studs that must be taken off before the rotor will come free. Oh, do make sure that you DO NOT have the parking brake applied!

 

Oh, do take the previous advice on replacing your parking brake shoes while you're in there.

[autopat]

I just installed Baer brakes yesterday, the caliper mounting brackets are supposed to be torqued to 148 lb-ft. Caliper pin bolts are toqued to 14-17 lb-ft.