Jump to content

Hard Start when Warm


Recommended Posts

Posted

HI all,

This one has me stumped. I ran a search without luck. It takes 2 or 3 tries to get the truck to start when its warm. Cranks and cranks and then finaly catches and runs bad for a minute or two, then its fine. Cold start has no issues. I changed the plugs and check Fuel pressure. Anyone had this problem? BTW I have a 2000 1500 with the 5.3.

Posted

Most likely it is going to be your fuel pressure regulator. If you take the hose off at the regulator and gas pours out your regulator is bad. I had the same problem a couple months ago and after the fix I haven't had a problem since.

  • 3 months later...
  • 10 months later...
Posted

I had a GMC Safari that did the same thing. It was a little electric black box that cost about $15. I am having the same issue with my GMC Sierra. I don't remember the electronic part. It cost me $50 to have it anaylized in "95". I'm sure it would be more than that now. If you get an answer let me know.

Posted
HI all,

This one has me stumped. I ran a search without luck. It takes 2 or 3 tries to get the truck to start when its warm. Cranks and cranks and then finaly catches and runs bad for a minute or two, then its fine. Cold start has no issues. I changed the plugs and check Fuel pressure. Anyone had this problem? BTW I have a 2000 1500 with the 5.3.

 

I had a similar problem with my wife's Explorer. It was an injector leaking down. The leaky injector effectively flooded the engine which made for a difficult hot restart. But there was no problem when the engine was cold as the fuel presumably had evaporated out of the manifold by then.

You could try doing a pressure leak down check to see if it is within spec but you may have to plug the FPR return to isolate that as a leakdown source.

Good luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hey everyone, I recently had an issue with my 07 2500HD GMT900. My DRL’s stay on at all times. Right front turn and right mirror turn signal indicator stay on solid at all times. By “at all times” I mean the only way to make them go off is disconnecting the battery. I tore the headlight assemblies out, tried disconnecting the harnesses to eliminate bad wiring at the harness, I unplugged the headlight switch, no change and the mirror turn signal still stayed on. My first thoughts were : Bad bulb and/or socket somewhere, under hood fuse panel bad, bcm bad, tail light or trailer wiring problem, or some random short to power in the harness.  Possibly a bad ground but unlikely. I had a big clue in the fuse panel, it had a burnt smell. I started pulling every fuse that had to do with DRL or right turn/park lamp. Nothing made the right directional turn off but pulling the DRL2 fuse made the DRL’s go out.  After studying wiring diagrams, I found that both problems had that fuse panel in common, the bcm also controls both problems but knowing the fuse panel had a burnt smell I removed and disassembled the fuse panel and found a little corrosion on the printed circuit board.  I ordered a new fuse panel from Amazon for like $260. When it arrived I installed it, and put everything back together, the problem was fixed. I figured the fuse panel needed to be replaced anyway so that was a logical place to start. Hopefully this story helps someone in the future. Regretfully I didn’t scan for codes before I did everything.
    • That stinks. I’m sitting on the side of the road right now with the same issue. Never had an issue before taking it in for the ground strap recall. Now I’m outside of warranty and they’ll probably want $200 just to diagnose what they already “fixed”. 
    • I wonder kind of nuts and bolts they will come up with next? Jim
    • “It should be recognized, however, that there becomes a point where fuel economy oils do not make much economic sense for the end consumer—we talk about a fuel saving of ~€100 compared to a risk of €1000 Euros if the oil is too thin and causes increased engine wear rates. However, the benefit of these oils accrues to the car manufacturers. If their vehicles can save 1–2% fuel by using a special fuel economy lubricant, then that OEM can drastically reduce the amount of fines they need to pay.”   I liked this and the following paragraph as well but it’s really only touching the beginning of the benefits OEMs see from spec’ing these oils. After you factor in “out of warranty” service work and new car sales when these engines fail before their time, it’s a good racket for them. Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get you!
    • Too much voodoo and snake oil.   Time to go EV    😉
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...