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Help! Quick advice needed before I take the plung


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Posted

OK, guys - here is the deal. I have modified my desires for a camper so that I think I can find a nice one that is just at or under 5000 pounds dry with a GVWR of around 7000 - I honestly can't see adding 2000 pounds of stuff, even taking into account full water and grey water/septic weight, food, etc. Just me and the wife and our small amount of stuff for weekend camping trips. All camping to be done in Florida and states with very little hills.

 

So, I think I can get away with a Yukon XL with the 5.3L engine. I have found a very nice one, 91k miles, totally decked out, one-owner. Price about $10,700 -0 it is a 2002 model, which I like.

 

Give those parameters, would I be ok for this as my first entry into the world of towing and camping? It looks like I would be spending at least another $2500 to find a 6.0L or 8.1L engine Yukong or Suburban in that 2002 model year, and they are very hard to find around here. Plus the loss of MPG is a factor as well, and I feel like the heavier engine ones would more than likely be a little more "used" as far as someone towing a lot with them before selling it.

 

Thanks!

Posted

You will probably be ok with sane driving but it will amaze you how much that thing will weigh when loaded. Get it weighed some time. You will be very impressed. I think tires will be a big consideration.

 

Ken

Posted

Camper?? I assume you are talking about a travel trailer and not a slide-in camper for a pickup?

 

You will need to find the towing weights for the vehicle you are considering. 7K towed weight is close to the maximum for basic 1/2 ton rigs. My 99 Silverado Z71 with 4.10 gears and the tow package is rated for 8000lbs. With 3.73's, towing capacity drops to 7500.

 

Any vehicle you look at should have the Z85 suspension or the Z71 4-wheel package to get to the maximum towing weight. It should also have the factory towing package which includes a tranny cooler. The wiring will be in place for a brake controller and the electrical hook-up.

 

It doesn't take a lot for cargo weight to add up quickly. Remember that the two of you needs to be included in the combined vehicle weight along with whatever you take in both the tow vehicle and trailer.

 

Once you find a suitable vehicle (and a Tahoe or Yukon will work fine with the right equipment) you still have to make sure it's in a condition to haul a trailer. Good brakes, shocks, Load Range E tires and a cooling system that is in good shape will help with safe trips. The electrical system will need to be set up to charge the trailer battery as you drive.

 

If the rig didn't come with the factory trailer package, then you will need wiring, the largest tranny cooler that will fit, a good Class IV hitch and a brake controller. As far as fuel mileage, the 5.3 will deliver decent mileage unloaded but when you hang a 7Klb trailer behind it, expect your mileage to drop drastically. 10-12MPG may be good when towing :rolleyes:

Posted

Well, I am reconsidering the 5.3L 1500 style. I think maybe for a little more $$ I can get a nice 2500 style with the 6.0L engine, about 1000 more pounds towing, and I think I will just feel better.

 

What is the deal with the Z71 package? Is it only on 4x4s, and what does it do for me?

Posted

Z71 is the 4x4 off-roading package. Basically it includes a beefier suspension, a locking rear differential, and skid plates.

 

Either the Z71 or the Z85 suspension packages would work.

 

I concur on a 3/4 ton truck for towing that heavy of a trailer. You really want some margin on your tow rating and 5000 lbs, not including gear and passengers, leaves you with next to none. I personally would be OK towing that much every now and again, but if you're going to be doing a fair amount of travelling with that heavy of a rig go with the 2500 series.

 

Keep in mind it's not just the engine. A 2500 will handle that load better than a 1500 due to increased suspension capacity and higher load rating tires.

 

Good luck.

Posted
Z71 is the 4x4 off-roading package. Basically it includes a beefier suspension, a locking rear differential, and skid plates.

 

Either the Z71 or the Z85 suspension packages would work.

 

I concur on a 3/4 ton truck for towing that heavy of a trailer. You really want some margin on your tow rating and 5000 lbs, not including gear and passengers, leaves you with next to none. I personally would be OK towing that much every now and again, but if you're going to be doing a fair amount of travelling with that heavy of a rig go with the 2500 series.

 

Keep in mind it's not just the engine. A 2500 will handle that load better than a 1500 due to increased suspension capacity and higher load rating tires.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

Is the Z71 package standard with the 4x4 2500 Suburbans?

 

Is the Z85 package standard for the 4x2 Subs?

 

If the Sub doesn't have a towing package, is it particularly pricey to get it upgraded with the hitch, transmission cooler, whatever else I need?

 

Thanks again for all the help, guys!

Posted

Greywolf, most Yukon XLs will have the factory tow package. You can look right behind the GMC logo in the grill and you will see a small aux trans cooler about 11" long and 5" tall. It would also have the factory style reciever which is a round tube design that is hidden under the bumper for the most part.

 

I will go against the grain here. If your proposed camper has a dry wt of under 5k you will be in good shape even if the Yuk XL has a 3.73 gear. I would prefer a 4.10 but with this wt, you will be fine. You will add about 500 lbs of "stuff" to your 5,000 lb camper and unless you tow full of water and with both the grey and black tanks full you would never weigh more than 5500 to 5700 lbs.

 

As I said in another post, if you plan to travel a lot and will be in the mountains, wait for a 2500 and the 8.1L. If you are towing as you mentioned above, the 1500 Yuk XL is hard to beat.

 

I removed my factory trans cooler and upgraded to a larger stacked plate design just to be safe. By the way, the 2500 has the same size cooler as the 1500 unless you have the Alison trans. I also replaced my trans fluid with Amsoil Syn fluid, again just to be safe. I also replaced my factory receiver with a Putnam XDR Class V receiver due to some flexing I was getting from my OE reciever. GM uses the same design receiver on both the 1500 and 2500. Mine simply was flexing when I hooked up my Equal i zer Weight Dist hitch. With the Putnam, I get no flex and moved an additional 400 lbs to my front axle.

 

My Yukon XL does very well towing my 6500 lbs, is very comfortable and gets really good mileage, 18.6 aveage daily driving and 12 when towing. I would also have to disagree that a Tahoe or std Yukon will do the same job as the Burb or XL. The additional wheelbase means a great deal as far as stability and safety when towing a camper this long. There is a formula you can find on some of the RV sites that will better explain this. If I can remember correctly a XL is good for about 29ft while a std Yuk would be rated ( according to this formula) at 26ft or so.

 

Good luck with your decision.

Posted
Greywolf, most Yukon XLs will have the factory tow package. You can look right behind the GMC logo in the grill and you will see a small aux trans cooler about 11" long and 5" tall. It would also have the factory style reciever which is a round tube design that is hidden under the bumper for the most part.

 

I will go against the grain here. If your proposed camper has a dry wt of under 5k you will be in good shape even if the Yuk XL has a 3.73 gear. I would prefer a 4.10 but with this wt, you will be fine. You will add about 500 lbs of "stuff" to your 5,000 lb camper and unless you tow full of water and with both the grey and black tanks full you would never weigh more than 5500 to 5700 lbs.

 

As I said in another post, if you plan to travel a lot and will be in the mountains, wait for a 2500 and the 8.1L. If you are towing as you mentioned above, the 1500 Yuk XL is hard to beat.

 

I removed my factory trans cooler and upgraded to a larger stacked plate design just to be safe.  By the way, the 2500 has the same size cooler as the 1500 unless you have the Alison trans. I also replaced my trans fluid with Amsoil Syn fluid, again just to be safe. I also replaced my factory receiver with a Putnam XDR Class V receiver due to some flexing I was getting from my OE reciever. GM uses the same design receiver on both the 1500 and 2500. Mine simply was flexing when I hooked up my Equal i zer Weight Dist hitch.  With the Putnam, I get no flex and moved an additional 400 lbs to my front axle.

 

My Yukon XL does very well towing my 6500 lbs, is very comfortable and gets really good mileage, 18.6 aveage daily driving and 12 when towing. I would also have to disagree that a Tahoe or std Yukon will do the same job as the Burb or XL. The additional wheelbase means a great deal as far as stability and safety when towing a camper this long. There is a formula you can find on some of the RV sites that will better explain this. If I can remember correctly a XL is good for about 29ft while a std Yuk would be rated ( according to this formula) at 26ft or so.

 

Good luck with your decision.

 

 

 

 

It seems like most trailers I am finding are at or above 5000 pounds, with some hitting 6-7k.

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