Jump to content

Trans shutter


bbqn

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an 02 Z71 5.3L. No towing or plowing, almost all highway. At 36,000 sun shell gear went. Dealer fixed, work order said with re-engineered part.

Now I have 57,000 and when shifting from 1st to 2nd there is occasionally, what I would call, a slight shutter or slip. This only occurs when fully warmed up. No service lights.

The TSB #020730030(A) I found seems to describe this condition along with "Install generator voltage sense circuit".

The service advisor here knows nothing about. He said bring it in and give it to the trans guy. 3 trans shops never heard of it. Thats encouraging.

Can anyone tell me what is involved here or what I am headed for? Stop driving?

Posted

If it's this problem, it's an annoyance, nothing else. I wouldn't stop driving it. Here's the TSB.

 

Subject: Transmission 1-2 Shift Shudder, Vibration, Slips, Chuggle (Install Generator Voltage Sense Circuit) #02-07-30-030A - (11/18/2003)

 

Models: 2001-2003 Chevrolet Silverado

 

2001-2003 GMC Sierra

 

with 4L60-E Automatic Transmission (RPO M30)

 

Built Prior to August 5, 2003 at Oshawa (Plant Code 1) and Pontiac (Plant Code E) or Prior to August 12, 2003 at Fort Wayne (Plant Code Z)

 

 

 

Vehicles built AFTER the dates listed above will have a Voltage Sense Circuit internal to the generator. These vehicles will NOT have a wire in terminal D of the generator connector.

 

 

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

This bulletin is being revised to accommodate for a 2003 model year mid-cycle enhancement. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-030 (Section 07 -- Transmission/Transaxle).

 

 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Condition

Some customers may comment that the transmission slips, a shudder, chuggle, or vibration is felt when the transmission shifts from first to second gear.

 

Cause

A 12 Hz electrical feedback from the charging circuit may be affecting the transmission pressure control solenoid, causing a fluctuation of the line pressure within the transmission.

 

Diagnostic Tip

Road test the vehicle under the following conditions:

 

• Throttle position is less than 15 percent.

 

• Engine coolant and transmission fluid are at full operating temperature.

 

• The outside ambient temperature is warmer than 24°C (75°F).

 

If the condition is present, disconnect the generator 4 cavity connector (2 wires in the connector) and retest.

 

If the condition is no longer present, perform the correction listed below.

 

If the condition remains unchanged, the condition will not be corrected with this procedure. Look for other causes of the condition.

 

Correction

Install an external sense lead to the generator assembly. This is accomplished by adding a wire from the generator four wire connector to the generator output BAT terminal.

 

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery/batteries.

Slide the protective boot on the generator BAT terminal aside and remove the retainer and wire cable from the BAT terminal.

Unplug the generator 4-cavity terminal from the top of the generator.

Inspect cavity D on the generator connector for a red cavity plug.

• If a red cavity plug is present, it is not necessary to replace the generator connector. Remove the CPA and save. Remove the red cavity plug and continue with step 9.

 

• If a red cavity plug is NOT present, continue with the next step.

 

Remove and save the orange weatherpack seal and CPA from the 4-way connector.

Using the proper terminal removal tool, remove the two or three wires from the 4-way connector.

• On vehicles without Supplemental Brake Assist (SBA), install a red cavity plug, P/N 12059168, into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector, P/N 12186568.

 

• On some 2003 model year vehicles with SBA, install the dark blue (Circuit 5668) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "A" of the new 4-way connector.

 

Install the brown (Circuit 25) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "B" of the new 4-way connector.

Install the gray (Circuit 23) wire of the vehicle wiring harness into cavity "C" of the new 4-way connector.

Obtain a piece of 0.80 mm/18GA black wire, 254 mm (8 in) long.

Install a red terminal seal, P/N 12048086, and terminal, P/N 12048074, (crimp and solder) on one end of the new black wire.

Install the new black wire into cavity "D" of the new 4-way connector.

Reinstall the connector seal and CPA, from the original connector, to the new connector.

Plug the 4-way connector into the generator.

Route the black wire to the generator BAT terminal, sliding the wire into the small end to the output terminal boot, along side the generator output wire.

Crimp and solder the ring terminal, P/N 12103514, on the open end of the new black wire.

Place the generator output wire and the new black wire onto the generator BAT terminal and install the retainer.

Tighten

Tighten to the BAT terminal retainer to 9 N·m (80 lb in).

 

Connect the negative battery cable.

Tighten

Tighten the battery cable retainer to 17 N·m (13 lb ft).

 

Parts Information

Part Number

Description

Quantity needed for this repair

SPO Dealer Cost

J 38125

 

Kit Tray Location

Available from Kent Moore (approximately $12.50 per pkg)

 

12048074*

Terminal

1

$0.57

Tray # 2

50 per package

 

12059168*

Cavity Plug

1

$2.00

Tray # 3

25 per package

 

12048086*

Wire Seal, Red

1

$2.05

Tray # 3

25 per package

 

12103514*

Ring Terminal

1

$1.50

Tray # 19

N/A

 

12186568

Connector

1

$1.30

Must be ordered from Parts.

N/A

 

 

Part numbers shown above which have an (*) are found in the terminal repair kit, J 38125. They may be ordered either from GMSPO or SPX Kent Moore.

 

Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

 

Warranty Information

For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

 

Labor Operation

Description

Labor Time

 

*N8505

Rewire Generator, 1-2 shudder

0.7 hr

 

*This is a unique labor operation number for use only with this bulletin. This number will not be published in the Labor Time Guide.

 

 

 

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

 

© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.

Posted

GM TECH - YOU THE MAN ! :cool:

I am feelin better. The diagnostic tips are right on.

When I was in N. WI and not driving much, no problem. Headed to Florida last week, got off the highway in Ga and said "what the ---- was that" ?

Made it to Bonita Springs next day, same problem. Cold fluids, no problems.

Started doing searches and found the TSB. Didnt want to pay for a new trans if I dont need it. I'll be hear till FEB and didnt know who to trust. Tomorrow I'll be under the hood or checking referrals for a shop.

Thanks for your fast reply.

Posted

GM-Tech,

 

I had this same problem with an '03 Silverado w/ 5.3 and 4L60E and did the alternator circuit fix, but the problem is still there. Most noticable with hot fluid low to medium acceleration, but basically does it all the time. Do you know of any other causes that could lead to this?? I recalled possibly seeing a tsb to replace the pressure control solenoid...is that legit?

 

Also, is this 'slippage' doing possible damage? It's been doing it for awhile, it shifts...then 'slips' a little...then you feel it engage. I changed the trans filter a couple weeks ago, and there was more material than I'd like to see...but not necessarily abnormal. Any help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks so much.

Posted
GM-Tech,

 

I had this same problem with an '03 Silverado w/ 5.3 and 4L60E and did the alternator circuit fix, but the problem is still there.  Most noticable with hot fluid low to medium acceleration, but basically does it all the time.  Do you know of any other causes that could lead to this??  I recalled possibly seeing a tsb to replace the pressure control solenoid...is that legit? 

 

Also, is this 'slippage' doing possible damage?  It's been doing it for awhile, it shifts...then 'slips' a little...then you feel it engage.  I changed the trans filter a couple weeks ago, and there was more material than I'd like to see...but not necessarily abnormal.  Any help is much appreciated.

 

Thanks so much.

 

 

 

Posted

I'm sorry, I'm not really a tranny guy. Last time I worked on a trans it was a 350 or 400. That's many, many years ago and transmissions were purely mechanical. They've changed immensely since that time. I know what little bit I know through osmosis. If it's a common problem or a TSB I've seen, I can sometimes help, but otherwise I'm not the guy to go to.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...