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Posted

I'm been looking at Chevy trucks but what should I stay away from? I found a Blazer LT for pretty cheap but it has 147,000 miles. I've heard good things about chevy truck engines but wanted some more advice before I go for it.

Posted

While I'm asking, what about possibly droping a crate engine if this one craps out? Is it a pretty basic swap or is there a bit to it? If so what engines?

Posted

I don't know much about the blazers, but their gmc counterpart (the jimmy) is a good one, so the blazer should be too. I doubt the engine will crap out. the transmission will probably go before then and since its not a truck and depending on how the previous owner drove it, it could last for a while longer. good thing is since it is a 98 it is probably still fairly easy to work on yourself.

Posted

I had a 2004 S-10 Blazer and hated it. Did not like anything about it. It was horrible. Did I mention that I didn't like it. We just had many many problems...too many to mention. There is my 2 cents

Posted

How reliable ANY used vehicle is depends greatly on how well the previous owners took care of it. I've unfortunately never owned a vehicle since new, but my parents have, and I would not hesitate to take any one of their vehicles across the country and back right now. They've been well cared for and not abused at all. The same cannot be said for all people, however. Many people simply 'gas and go' their cars, and treat them like s**t (speeding, racing, slamming on the brakes all the time, etc. etc). Some don't even ever change the oil, much less check it.

 

Here's what I do when buying a used vehicle: ask for any and all reciepts for repairs. If they cannot be provided, ask what dealer or shop worked on the vehicle. If it's not a reputable shop, then walk away from it.

Posted

Today I was able to get in the truck and hear it run. So far all seems good pending a carfax report. The truck started right up, idoled smooth, revved nicely, and actually sounded MUCH better than another truck I had test driven which had less miles than this one. I've also checked out some consumer reports and for whatever reason this seems to be one of the most favored and least problematic years for the Blazer. We'll see how the test drive goes though. We're planning on taking it to our mechanic on friday to have him look at it.

Posted

Why not mention some specifics on the Blazer. (year, engine, 2 or 4 door .... )

Might get some more replies then.

I had a '94 Jimmy ('Gypsy' model) with a 2.8 engine. I wouldn't recommend one of those to anybody !

My current '00 Jimmy SLS with the 4.3, 5 speed is 100 times better than the '94 ever could have hoped to have been.

Posted
HyperBuzzin, I still hate you for having the Jimmy I wanted...I looked for a long time for one with a 5-speed before having to settle on one with the auto...

 

 

 

 

LOL, sorry dude. :loser:

 

It took me awhile to find it. And when I finally did, I was about ready to settle for an automatic, then looked at the interior and saw the 5 speed.

I said to myself, "Self, this is the truck for you !!"

There are times I miss the auto, but there's more times I'm glad I got the manual.

Posted

I am assuming that you have a 4.3 L V-6 that should be fine. I had a 99 and put 180,000 miles on it...

 

Things you will replace....

 

Ball joints (lower) Have mechanic check....

Sun Shell gear (usually dies from metal fatigue) ...look for $1800 tranny bill. Mine lasted 105,000 miles....the 4L60E is a good tranny if taken care of....

Fuel pump (expensive, it's in the tank)

 

other incidentals that like wires, plugs, etc should be replaced. :cool:

Posted
I am assuming that you have a 4.3 L V-6 that should be fine.  I had a 99 and put 180,000 miles on it...

 

Things you will replace....

 

Ball joints (lower) Have mechanic check....

Sun Shell gear (usually dies from metal fatigue) ...look for $1800 tranny bill.  Mine lasted 105,000 miles....the 4L60E is a good tranny if taken care of....

Fuel pump (expensive, it's in the tank)

 

other incidentals that like wires, plugs, etc should be replaced. :cool:

 

 

 

 

You bring up a good point in these. However, some are not as difficult as others. The balljoints you MIGHT be able to do yourself, but it's easier to let a shop do. If you can pull the trans yourself you can easily cut that repair bill in half, and if you've got friends it can go as low as $400 (and that's for a race transmission that'll last around 180k miles). However, as stated, if it was taken care of I doubt you'll have a problem. The fuel pump is only expensive because you have to replace the whole unit (sending unit and everything). That'll set you back about $200-300. The rest of it you can do yourself if you know what you're doing. If you have a shop do it you'll probably triple the price to get it done.

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