Jump to content

Mirror Prices


Recommended Posts

Posted

Passenger side mirror glass broke the other day. This am I call dealer, he needs my vin to get the right mirror glass but says they start at $60, just for the glass. I go to Monster auto parts online and they have the entire mirror for $55, they claim built to OEM specs. Seems to good to be true?

Posted
Passenger side mirror glass broke the other day. This am I call dealer, he needs my vin to get the right mirror glass but says they start at $60, just for the glass. I go to Monster auto parts online and they have the entire mirror for $55, they claim built to OEM specs. Seems to good to be true?

 

Let me get on my soap box about the mis-conseption about OEM parts.

OEM parts are parts that are the least expensive that will get thru the warrenty period of the mfg.. These ARE NOT THE BEST PARTS AVAILIBLE!! When I see parts that are advertised as OEM they usually only have a warrenty of 12 month to 24 months.

Almost any part with a lifetime warrenty is a better deal. (unless you're getting rid of your vehicle within the warrent time frame)

This is just my humble opinion of an old man thats been there!

 

Now back to your original question, Yes any part you can find in a parts store will always be cheaper then the dealer.

I remember a few years ago that if you built a $20k car from the parts bin of a dealership, you'd be in the $80k range after it was built. This was for parts only! More then likely a lot more today!

Posted

If they charge $60 min for a glass replacement, I dont even think it is glass, how much would they charge for the entire mirror, maybe $400? You could buy 7-8 replacement mirrors for the same price. I got a feeling they charge that much due to a lot of the replacements are paid by insurance claims.

Posted
Depending on what mirror you have ..............................

A replacement heated/power mirror glass replacement GM piece runs

around $30 bucks.............

 

Check out this link for instructions/pics for DIY replacement:

http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175712

Mine are power but not heated. I thought maybe the first parts guy I talked to could have mis quoted the price so I call a diff dealer and this guy also says he needs the vin, but it is about "$80 for the glass only". I talked to a person a Monster auto and they claim the only diff between thiers and the dealers is they dont have any Chevrolet logo. They warantee for 1 year. $60 for a complete mirror with warantee vs $80 for piece of glass seems like no contest. Thanks for the link.

Posted

I got mine from partsbin. I guess having the entire mirror would be cheaper, just as my brother had his Saturn mirrors. But, the price still depends on the quality of the glass. Looking for good quality parts makes replacements crucial. There are a lot of sources to choose from but it would take you some time if you're up to a good one; you still need to have few comparisons. Anyways, you could take a choice from them. Just buy the mirror parts then do it yourself.

 

:)

Posted

Well, I will find out if I made out or not in a few days when the mirror arrives. Just cant see spending 80 bucks for the glass. Plus with the new mirror, the actuators are new, the ones in my mirror now are 6 years old! Time flys, seems like I was just buying the truck.

Posted

sorry guys ... i had to add a few posts so i could add my topic about throttle body spacers :cheers:

 

-Just a little FYI to you and others that may read this. Multiple replies in a row with no one else posting in between will not raise your post count. Thus why my finger is now worn out from deleting all the previous "k" messages but 1. :)

Posted

Just an update, I got the mirror by UPS 3 days after ordering on the phone. Mirror was packaqed very well, it was in a felt type bag, then in a box, then in a larger box with packing materials. When I checked it out, I was very pleased, it is exactly the same appearance as the original, down to every detail. Bolted it on, plugged it in and done. IMO, way better than paying dealer $80 just for the glass.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
    • you might read through the info on gmupfitter.com for your truck, to find a good power source.
    • Melling I believe is/was the OEM on the lifters who explored this problem some years ago. The white paper they generated on the topic indicated two items of note when I read it. 1.) They only fail on the switch. Prevent the switch, prevent the failure. 2.) The majority fail due to deposits messing up the timing of that switch. Anyway that's what I got from it.    Mine have always been active, 195K+ now, and my oil maintenance is surgically clean.    Of course this assumes good parts. That is no heat treat issue or machining flaws. I get comfortable that these issues are in the rearview mirror by about 30K. IMHO naturally. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...