Properly Securing A Car On A Trailer

[ThoseDarnKids]

I'll be renting a trailer to tow a 2,265 lb car to a track event October 28-28. I'll be looking for something like a 17' open car hauler. I'll be purchasing four 2" wide ratcheting tie-downs, like this. The car has 2 tow hooks up front. In the rear, there's a single tow hook in the middle.

 

I planned on crossing the front straps to the front tow hooks. Easy. But, I'm not exactly sure how to secure the back of the car because there's only the one tow hook. I think I might have to get some wheel straps. If I did, could I just cross the rear straps to the wheel straps, too?

 

How are you securing a car on a trailer?

 

I've never towed before, so I'll probably rent this trailer the night before and go practice maneuvering in parking lots.

 

What else should I know?

 

Thanks.

[GDSQDCR]

I am by far an expert on towing ... but ...

 

Take your time stopping and give yourself plenty of following room.

 

As for hooking the car up; sound like you have the right idea. I would do the wheel straps on the rear, but just because I like to be safe, I would use the single tow hook in the rear and run 1 strap to each side of the trailer.

 

My not even 2 cents worth. Someone will probably come up along and correct me.

 

Anthony

[grimmysnr]

Its pretty easy to be honest man. I really wouldnt put that much thought into it. You could secure through the front tow hooks, engage the parking brake and be more than fine. 2 10k straps will be more than enough to secure a 2 thousand pound car. If anything fails it will be the trailer at the secure points.

 

Also if you rent a trailer from Uhaul it will come with tire straps already equipped. Those and the parking brake are also enough. Just take your turns slightly wider than usual and keep an eye on the back. That car isnt going anywhere as long as you dont go off roading at 20mph. Just take it slow and be courtesy for other drivers. Confidence helps too, just do it and you will be amazed at the outcome.

[LF Motorsports]

Just 2 cents worth but.....

 

I haul a 1550# race car and use 2 axle straps in the rear (usually crossed but not always) and 2 ratchets up front. I go around the axle in the rear and lower control arms in the front.

 

Going around the axle or wheel and lower suspension parts allows the car to "float" over bumps and not stretch or looseness your straps. If you strap around the frame, make sure you tighten the straps enough that the car will not bounce. The parking brake is a good idea, just in case.

 

As for driving, as stated before. Give yourself room to stop and take corners a little wide and watch in the mirrors when you turn. You will get the hang of it.

 

Hope this helps, and not to late.

[ThoseDarnKids]

That sounds like a good idea, strapping the suspension down instead of the chassis. I appreciate the info. That's good stuff.

 

I'm probably going to get this tie down combo, which includes four 10,000 lb. (3,300 lb.) ratcheting tie downs, four axle straps and a storage box to keep them in. I'm looking forward to using the truck.

[desrtrat]

I'll be renting a trailer to tow a 2,265 lb car to a track event October 28-28. I'll be looking for something like a 17' open car hauler. I'll be purchasing four 2" wide ratcheting tie-downs, like this. The car has 2 tow hooks up front. In the rear, there's a single tow hook in the middle.

 

I planned on crossing the front straps to the front tow hooks. Easy. But, I'm not exactly sure how to secure the back of the car because there's only the one tow hook. I think I might have to get some wheel straps. If I did, could I just cross the rear straps to the wheel straps, too?

 

How are you securing a car on a trailer?

 

I've never towed before, so I'll probably rent this trailer the night before and go practice maneuvering in parking lots.

 

What else should I know?

 

Thanks.

 

i tow for a living, and if you plan to do this often, then i would use one of these. we use them on our flatbed trucks and we have strapped down 3500 p/u and NEVER had one fail

 

http://www.awdirect.com/finditem.cfm?itemid=20139

 

prefer the TWP28AL or the TWP28BL with the cluster ends, have different hooks on them to be used on the frame holes on the car. the " TOW HOOKS " you call are just transport lugs they can be used as a good tie down points for the front. in the rear use the small J hook to one of the frame on both sides. as for crossing then if you get them tight enough straight, you should not have to cross them.

 

BE CAREFUL when using these hooks, they work GREAT when used correctly, and not so good when not...

 

 

good luck on what you decide to do, a little over kill never hirt any one

[scottmoyer]

Somebody mentioned to tie down the front and use the emergency brake. WRONG! When you get cut off by some idiot in traffic and you stand on the brakes, the car on the trailer will be coming thru the tailgate to say hello.

 

I too use the rear axle, be careful of any brake lines and cross them at the rear. I have found that crossing them stabilizes the load and doesn't feel so soft or sloppy in the back. I also use the lower control arm in the front. It takes longer to set up this way, but the load isn't going anywhere.

[ThoseDarnKids]

Yeah, I've actually changed my mind about strapping down the suspension, especially in the rear. Strapping the lower control arms will place load on the arm in a direction it's not meant for. That means a lot of stress on rubber bushings. I discovered some ovals in the rear of the chassis that are meant for T hooks and will probably go that route.

 

 

Tightly strapping down the chassis would also save my shocks, which are approaching their limits, as far as damping my current spring rates.

[silverado04]

Ya, I love seeing newbies pulling a car on a trailer... never strapped the right way and their car is bouncing against the straps because they attatch to the chassis and no matter how tight you crank it down you will still find bumps on todays fine highways to bounce it!!

I have to disagree with the one who says hooking to the lower a-arms period! if they can not handle the load in any direction then I sure in the h$ll do not want to trust them to haul my family.. It is by far harder on things to crank it down tight enough to take the bounce out then hooking to the arms and rearend.

 

The tow hooks again are just that Tow Hooks!! not tie downs..

 

I would either use the straps that go over the tires or as already mentioned the Lower a-arms and the rear end! when strapping to the arms and rearend you do not need to pull the straps tight enough to break things..

I would go from the corners to the arms in the front and from the rearend to the rear of the trailer or the rear corners as well.

 

I have also pulled many of vehicals with the straps ran through the wheels then back to the trailer..

 

providing you get it centered on the trailer front to rear for load distr. and put it in park on leave in gear if manual, Set the parking brake,

and (I like to pull the car up against some wedged blocks I have made, extra protection is all) then set the straps tight enough they don't bounce is all, you do not have to pull the car in two by tightening it to tight.

 

either way you will get it there (you hope) with out a problem,, one other thing I have seen many times is if you hook to chassis or elsewhere thats pulls the suspension down be sure and watch the straps don't come unhooked.. or broke. I have seen this a great number of times where the car bounces on the trailer causing the strap to come loose and ends up being drug down the road.

 

this is all just my opinion be it right or wrong.

[scottmoyer]

[wink05]

One final thought.........pull the car on the trailer, don't back it on!!!!!!!!

 

In 2000 my son borrowed my new chevy truck to trailer a car to the body shop at high school (backing the car on the trailer) and 1/2 mile down the road, just as he was going under an underpass, the tail started wagging the dog, and totaled out my truck, trailer, and the car he was towing.